Vitamin C is an antioxidant so it will be scavenging up free oxygen in the water which is counter productive to yeast growth.Preparing Dry Yeast (copied from John Palmer How to Brew)
Dry yeast should be re-hydrated in water before pitching. Often the concentration of sugars in wort is high enough that the yeast can not draw enough water across the cell membranes to restart their metabolism. For best results, re-hydrate 2 packets of dry yeast in warm water (95-105°F) and then proof the yeast by adding some sugar to see if they are still alive after de-hydration and storage.
If it's not showing signs of life (churning, foaming) after a half hour, your yeast may be too old or dead. Unfortunately, this can be a common problem with dry yeast packets, especially if they are the non-name brand packets taped to the top of malt extract beer kits. Using name brand brewers yeasts like those mentioned previously usually prevents this problem. Have a third packet available as back-up.
Re-hydrating Dry Yeast
1. Put 1 cup of warm (95-105F, 35-40C) boiled water into a sanitized jar and stir in the yeast. Cover with Saran Wrap and wait 15 minutes.
2. "Proof" the yeast by adding one teaspoon of extract or sugar that has been boiled in a small amount of water. Allow the sugar solution to cool before adding it to the jar.
3. Cover and place in a warm area out of direct sunlight.
4. After 30 minutes or so the yeast should be visibly churning and/or foaming, and is ready to pitch.
Note: Lallemand/Danstar does not recommend proofing after rehydration of their yeast because they have optimized their yeast's nutrional reserves for quick starting in the main wort. Proofing expends some of those reserves.
I add brewing sugar with my vitamin C and nutrient to bottles water and add the dried yeast. Today’s “starter” took 2 hours to develop a one inch head.
The vitamin C may not help, but it surely can do no harm.
What makes you think I have such a tenuous grasp on the English lexicon as to be unable to discern the use of the word nectar in relation to the description of a beer. Did you assume I would think you had literally produced a transmutation of wort into the sugary secretion of a flower?Kadmium - I agree to disagree with you - lol - the manufacturer is not always 100 % truthful - I am just coming from years of doing something that works for me - tell you what - fly over here when it is safe to do so and I let you taste my beer - eg tonights beer was brewed just 3 weeks ago and it is nectar - is that a word u understand - if not it it is extremely nice old chap. Or possibly chappess. We have to be poltically correct, non sexist etc..................
How To Brew@grandadrob OK, so you have a book, written by:
John J. Palmer is the author of the self-published book, How to Brew and an active member of the homebrewing community. Palmer began writing How to Brew in 1995. The website The Real Beer Page hosted the first edition of the book at howtobrew.com. Palmer self-published a print edition of How to Brew in 2000.
So, 25yrs ago an enthusiastic homebrewer published his own book (it has recently been revised and for what it is, it's a great general reference for people just starting the hobby)
He recommends rehydrating yeast in a cup of water, the people that make the stuff say 10 times its weight, for an 11.5gm packet that's 115ml, under half a cup.
On the other hand you have this from the manufacturers, specialising in just one aspect/ingredient of brewing, and published within the last two years
YEAST REHYDRATION PROCESS Step by Step - Sanitize the upper part of the pack (e.g. ethanol 70%) and the scissors before opening. - Sprinkle the yeast on the surface of 10 times its weight in clean, sterilized water at 30-35°C (86- 95F). - Leave it undisturbed for 15 minutes, stir gently to suspend yeast completely. - Leave it for 5 more minutes at 30-35°C (86- 95F). - Attemperate in steps at 5-minute intervals of 10°C to the temperature of the wort by mixing aliquots of wort in order to adjust the temperature of the hydrated yeast, with no delay. Please Do Not - Do not use distilled or reverse osmosis water, as it will result in loss of viability. - Do not stir right after sprinkling, as it may break the yeast cell membrane. - Do not allow attemperation to be carried out by natural heat loss. This will take too long and could result in loss of viability or vitality
From Lessafre (Fermentis):
Direct pitch If the brewery is not equipped with a system designed for the rehydration step, we highly recommend a direct pitch. To do so we recommend using the necessary quantity in weight of ADY and to put it into the fermentation vessel during the first part of the wort cooling step. The temperature of cooling will be the same as the temperature used to start fermentation. There is no need for aeration during this process.
IF YOU ARE USED TO REHYDRATE DRY YEAST, NO WORRY you still can! Just follow our recommendation process. -
Rehydrate the dry yeast into yeast cream by sprinkling it on 10 times its own weight of sterile water or hopped wort. - The temperature of the hydration media is between 10 and 28°C (50-82,4°F); and should ideally be close to fermentation temperature. - Leave to rest; and optionally agitate gently (no violent agitation) for about 15 minutes. - Finally, pitch the resultant cream into the fermentation vessel.
AFTER REHYDRATION, BACTERIAL CONTAMINATION CAN DEVELOP IN THE SLURRY. For that reason, we recommend a rehydration in sterile hopped wort compared to sterile unhopped wort or sterile water. The iso-alpha acids (ideally above 5ppm, the equivalent of 5 IBU) present in the media will protect it from Gram + bacterial development and will not affect the rehydration process of the ADY.
Look at my post in this thread #54 for links to the above.
You will note they are very specific about what to do, and even go to the trouble to explain why, they do NOT use the same process, their recommended temp's are different, as is their production method.
What is being discussed here is merely "best practice" for what we have currently available to make craft brews, there are many different ways to end up with an alcoholic beverage, and you are free to use whatever method you choose, but this forum is about advancing the craft, and improving brewers knowledge, no one knows everything, and we all need advice at times, you can either take that advice offered, or ignore it, your choice.
To be fair to Grmblz, it's only in the last few years Llalemand and Fermentis recommended not oxygenating wort with dry pitch. Things change, and JP book is a good basic read.How To Brew
Latest Revised edition (in metric)
- Publication date 01 Jun 2017
Was not advocating Vitamin C, Asprin or any other additiveTo be fair to Grmblz, it's only in the last few years Llalemand and Fermentis recommended not oxygenating wort with dry pitch. Things change, and JP book is a good basic read.
I see no real harm in hydrating, but putting in crushed up centrum pills ain't gonna do good, and will probably do harm. As stated, vitamin c in baking helps elasticity. Making the leap from "sourdough uses yeast and vitamin C therefore it must be good for beer" is just that. A leap.
I think he was referring to Grandpa about the vitamin c.Was not advocating Vitamin C, Asprin or any other additive
I rehydrate my dry yeast as a matter of course (when I rarely have occasion to use it) as per manufacturers instructions, not Palmer's.
Just making an observation that the book has had 4 revisions since the online basic version was available
Saying that, the printed book is a far better read than the free version
On citric acid,Vitamin C is an antioxidant so it will be scavenging up free oxygen in the water which is counter productive to yeast growth.
I believe you will also find the vitamin C used in baking is because it breaks down the glucan in the flour to elasticise it more. I once saw a bloke add a little diesel to his engine oil when flushing, I wonder if that would help me flush my kegs better. Surely if it worked for that, logic states it must be good for flushing things out.
If you decide to go against what the yeast manufacturers state to do, that's up to you. But even JP states that Llalemand and Fermentis do not recommend hydrating yeast.
The only time I rehydrate yeast is when making mead, and that's using something like D47 wine yeast and I use Fermaid Protect hydrating powders and then do TOSNA nutrient additions.
If you want to make fluffier bread add Vitamin C, if you want to make stressed, unhappy and oxygen deprived yeast add vitamin c.
I know, and I wonder which version grandadrob has been referencing? "rehydrate in a cup of water?"Just making an observation that the book has had 4 revisions since the online basic version was available
Saying that, the printed book is a far better read than the free version
I did not assume he had the latest version book at all, or any version. I really suspect is probably reading the online version.I know, and I wonder which version grandadrob has been referencing? "rehydrate in a cup of water?"
Your assumption that he has the latest 2017 version is unlikely to be correct given how long he has been brewing for, and who buys a book they already have just because it now has metric conversions, and some updates, especially in the UK where many still operate in Imperial, meh! (especially old farts like rob and myself)
"I need 2.4 mtrs of 4 x 2" gets some very strange looks at my local hardware store.