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OG 1055 down to 1005
This is pretty normal, by itself. The yeast has done a fair amount of work to get it down that far, most recipes like that would finish slightly higher.

The remarkable thing is that it took less than 4 days. That's crazy Norwegian type stuff.

What yeast did you use?
 
What do you call room temperature in Brisbane?
Hydrometers are calibrated at a certain temperature, usually 15 or 20C and that is the temperature the reading should be taken
Room temps in Aus can be anything from 0c to 45c
 
T
What do you call room temperature in Brisbane?
Hydrometers are calibrated at a certain temperature, usually 15 or 20C and that is the temperature the reading should be taken
Room temps in Aus can be anything from 0c to 45c

true. But the difference from 27 to 20 is like 1 point.
 
The yeast strain I don't know it came with the coopers pale ale can of wort the room temp doesn't matter with the hydrometer as I am checking water at room temperature and then the brew and adjusting points to how much the water is off the 1000 by
 
It's my experience that when you have an infection it's almost always obvious by a simple taste test. I guess if it wasn't you'd just get on with drinking.
My experience with hydrometers has not been good. I have three & they are all difficult to read.
Frankly I'd advise any newcomer to home brewing to stop bothering with hydrometer readings.
Just follow a known recipe, keep fermentation temp at about 19 deg. be diligent with sanitation, & recognise that airlock activity is a good guide to what's happening, although after the initial ferment it's wise to leave in the fermenter a further one week minimum.
 
As a side note, I'd advise any newcomer to absolutely use hydrometers for record keeping, knowing ABV of what you are making, understanding the fermentation process, and when a beer has finished fermenting (stable gravity readings over a few days).

Do not rely on a bubbling airlock to tell you if something is/is not fermenting. You can have a bubbling airlock when not fermenting (CO2 coming out of solution after ferment) or you can have an airlock not bubbling during ferment (gas escaping elsewhere).
 
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Frankly I'd advise any newcomer to home brewing to stop bothering with hydrometer readings.
Just follow a known recipe, keep fermentation temp at about 19 deg. be diligent with sanitation, & recognise that airlock activity is a good guide to what's happening, although after the initial ferment it's wise to leave in the fermenter a further one week minimum.

With respect, I don't think this is the right advice. I think that getting an accurate hydrometer and learning how to use it properly is a far better plan than arbitrarily relying on a pre-determined period of time to judge if fermentation has completed. Airlock activity isn't necessarily the best indicator of fermentation activity - rather, dropping gravity (as measured by a hydrometer) is.

Also, leaving beer on a yeast cake for periods beyond the completion of primary fermentation is a recipe for autolysis (yeast death). You may not be able to perceive it but it's happening.

Suggest to the OP, that consulting with another homebrewer in your area that can come over and take a sample with another hydrometer is going to be your best bet. Being in Brisbane, I'm sure there are many options with regard to brew clubs or even make friends with your local brewery.
 
Im going off a few things to tell me when is fermentation is done I look at the readings and how the yeast cake is acting and I watch the top of the brew for bubbles once it slows right down even with the temperature being around 22 I'd say it's done
I have just moved it into a secondary off the yeast cake today everything seems good now to wait and see how it cleans up last brew became very clear
 

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