Wolfy's 3v Stainless Home-brewery Build Details

[Wolfy]

It's taken more than 6 months, but my new brewery is at the stage where things are happening and I have enough photos and details to make it worth sharing.

Introduction:
In this thread I hope to present - with the help of lots of pictures - the process I've followed to build my new home-brewery. The main purpose is to show how I've done stuff and essentially prove that if I can do it, anyone can. While there is not much new, different, special or unique, I'm presenting the info in the hope of inspiring others with some of the ideas or to DIY their own brewery setup.

Posts here will be a condensed, appropriate for AHB version of the various rants on my blog: http://blog.bracio.com/
If you need more information or details, it's probably included on the corresponding blog-post.

Disclaimer:

• Most ideas, designs, concepts and information were borrowed, copied or learned from others on these forums or other online resources. i do not claim such as mine or suggest they are, but present them here as what I've done for my own needs and purposes.
• I have no skill with power tools, handy-man stuff, measuring **** or building things, so no matter what level inept skill level with such things, anyone can do this.
• My delicate office-worker hands get blisters just at the thought of manual labour, so again, if I can do it anyone can.
• There are probably other/better ways to achieve the same results, especially when working with tools and stuff. It may be that I overlooked or did not know better, so any/all advice is welcome for future improvement, especially in regard to tools, techniques or build methods.
• Use some common-sense and practicality if you decide to follow any suggestions or advice. While I honestly feel that if I can build stuff like this, anyone can, never try to do more than you can manage, always use appropriate tools, appropriate protective equipment and don't do anything that could injure yourself or others without first carefully considering the consequences.
• At the time of posting, I have not injured myself or others in any major way, however, if you do follow any suggestions or advice, please realize that you do-so at your own risk and nobody but yourself is to blame for any adverse consequences, damage, injury or worse.

 

[Wolfy]

#1 Planning and Overview
Blog post

My old home-brewery setup has done me well over the last few years. However, I've been thinking about upgrading my home-brew equipment for some time.

Objectives:

• Appropriate equipment to brew the best and most consistent beer possible (for me at home).
• Keep build costs to an absolute minimum.
• Maintenance and cleaning easy and hassle free.
• Able to brew double batches if required.
• Minimise or eliminate the need to manually lift hot wort/water.

Major build decisions:

• 3-vessel system
• All stainless construction (based on 2nd-hand 50L beer kegs)
• All electric
• Silicon hose and stainless cam-lock connections
• Pump for liquid transfer
• DIY for everything possible
• Careful consideration of each component, source and cost (tight-arse shopping)

Initially I was planning to build a single-level system with a single pump, something very simple and easy like Cortez's Brew Stand. However, since I prefer to fly-sparge, the design quickly evolved into a 2-tier setup and over the last six-or-so months, the sketches on backs-of-envelopes and other bits-of-paper have evolved a little:

Plan includes 3x 2nd-hand beer-kegs, plate-chiller (was very cheap at Keg King), a hop-back (design/build pending), a little-brown-pump, and a HERMS.

With my old setup, I often had trouble both hitting and maintaining the correct mash-temperature, which meaning quick additions of boiling or cold water, having to do random on-the-fly decoctions or other stuff. So while the HERMS adds a deal of complexity and additional expense, it should allow mash temperatures to be controlled and stepped in a much more precise and accurate way and make the brew-day easier and more relaxing.

No doubt things will change and evolve as the brewery is built, but since the kegs in the fridge are starting to get empty, its about time it was built and used, especially since I've sold the old system to help pay for the new one!

 

[Wolfy]

#2 Keg Cutting
Blog post

To convert the used beer kegs, they need the tops cut out of them. Google and YouTube show all kinds of complicated ways to do this, including using a jig or a plasma cutter. Since I had not done anything like this before, I did try to follow some of the advice, but found most of it pretty useless and the actual procedure (outlined below) much simpler and easier than I imagined.

Note: In the pictures below, the top collar of the keg has been removed, this makes them lighter and easier to work with but the handles still retrain their full strength. Removing the collar before cutting the top off the keg gives more working space, which is useful in keeping the grinder upright, but the collar does make a useful guide if you don't have a specific lid to fit. I was planning to use this keg as both the HLT and still-pot, but SWMBO had other ideas, so I decided to cut the top out of this keg too - and took the pictures as I did.

The only major tool needed to cut the keg-tops is an angle grinder, a thin steel cutting disk and a thicker steel grinding disk, however the $1-2 disks (shown below) worked well (Note: The last time I visited the big-green-shed they had Makita brand Stainless cutting disks that were thinner and better again).

The first thing to do is depressurize the keg, I did that by putting a rag over the valve and pushing down with a heavy screw driver (the keg shown below has the spear removed so no chance of pressure-buildup). Then mark out the top of the keg, I found a 30cm glass-fry-pan lid at an Op-shop for $4 which will make an ideal lid, so I just traced around the outside:

Attach the thin metal cutting disk to the angle grinder and run it -lightly- around just inside the marked line:

Now that we have a groove to follow, continue to run the angle grinder around that groove. If you have not yet removed the top collar of the keg - and especially if you don't plan to use a lid of a specific size - there is no need to mark the cutting circle, simply place the shield of the angle grinder against the collar and use that as a guide as you cut around the top of the keg.

Continue to work the angle grinder around the groove, keeping the cutting depth even all the way round, this should help preserve the cutting disk and if you do not concentrate on one section for too long it allows the stainless steel to cool before you come back to cut on that location again:

After running the angle grinder around the top of the keg a few times, it will eventually cut through the top:

At this stage, it's best to keep the keg-spear in-place (but ensure the keg is totally depressurized) that way the section of keg-top has something to balance on as it's cut out:

Change to the steel grinding disk and clean up the hole and edges, if fitting a lid ensure that it correctly fits the hole. Run the grinding disk over, around and under the hole to smooth it of and remove any jagged bits of metal. I found that by resting the guard of the angle grinder on the edge, guiding it backward grinding and smoothing the edge gradually around the circle allowed a good level of control and ensured that the (generally) circular hole remained (pretty much) circular:

Once the edges have been cleaned up with the grinding disk, its useful to smooth off the edges even more using a file, dremel tool or wet-dry sandpaper. Continue working around the edge until it is smooth and clean and you can run your hand around without cutting yoruself or getting metal-splinters. After a bit of work (maybe 1/2 hour all up) the top of the keg has been cut out, smoothed off and lid fitted:

Note:
Stealing beer kegs is bad (and illegal), however they can be purchased legitimately at various places. Keg King (Vic) currently have 50L kegs in stock (around $50ea), The Local Taphouse (Vic, NSW) often have 2nd hand (International brewery) kegs for sale (around $40 I think), so check with vendors where you live and you might be able to get 50L kegs at good prices. There are often brewery-kegs sold on Ebay, however they are not always legitimate sales, so even if you pay for one there it might not actually be something you were allowed to purchase.

 

[Wolfy]

#3: Perforated Stainless filters/false bottoms

A commercial-keg-mash-tun false bottom does a good job solid job, but they cost about $60-70. Since I decided to drill holes in the bottom of the kegs for the outlet valve (more on this when I take some hole-drilling photos) I essentially needed two false-bottoms and a filter for my hopback design. Unfortunately I don't have access to cheap/scrap perforated stainless, and buying even small amounts of it is difficult to find or expensive. Linked from one of the threads here was the RS Online Website, which has 2mm hole-size 47% open area 0.55mm thick stainless sheets. The hole-size is the same as commercial-type false bottoms, but the open area was a little greater and the steel was also thinner.

The good thing about the 500x500 sheet was that I should be able to make the mash-tun false bottom, kettle filter and the two hopback filters from the single sheet:

With a little care the perforated stainless was relatively easy to cut with a cutting disk on the angle grinder:

After cleaning up the edges with a grinding disk and a hand-file, the false bottom fitted in the keg mash-tun well. However, since it's thinner than the commercial false bottom, it can't easily be bent into a dome, and it may struggle to hold the weight of the mash. I plan to use a 1/2 inch threaded pipe-connector that will attach to the outlet-nipple and support the center of the DIY false bottom.

The bottom-draining-kettle-filter was a little smaller and slightly less round, but it still should do it's job more than adequately:

Filter-plates for the hopback were more time consuming to make due to the smaller size, my inability to measure the required width exactly and the fact that they must fit inside the container exactly:

But with some time and patience, I was able to make two round filter plates that fit exactly inside the stainless container:

I'll post more details on the hopback design/build when it's finished.

Edit: I still have 1 unused sheet of the perforated stainless, if anyone in Melb wants to buy it (at the price it cost me), send me a PM.

 

[Wolfy]

#4: Electricals / Control Box
Blog post here and here.

The addition of 3x electrical heating elements, HERMS, PID, SSR and HLT temperature controller, combined with the fact that the house's electrical wiring does not include RCD's (Safety Switches), means that the electrical stuff was much more complicated than I really wanted.

The various electrical bits ended up as follows:
1x 2200W Electrical heating element for the HLT.
1x 'Fridgemate' temperature controller to control temperature in the HLT.
2x 2200W Electrical heating element for the Kettle (with the option of controlling one via the manual setting on the PID).
1x 2000W 'cheap-kettle' element for the HERMS.
1x PID to control HERMS/mash tempeature
1x SSR between the HERMS element and controller
Other bits for the electrical control box include:
2x 20A RCD/MCB
2x DPST switches
2x DPDT switches
8x 240V LED control lights
Wires, cables, cable joiners, cable glands not shown in the photo and a box to put it all in:

Except the elements, which were purchased directly from Keg King, electrical items were sourced from Ebay, purchasing 3x RCD, a 60A switch and plastic control box was cheaper than buying just 2x RCD's. So everything will be housed in the control box, but if things get too hot I'll buy a bigger metal one.

After a few rough sketches the circuit diagram ended up something like this:

There are a number of reasons - legal and safety - why 240V DIY is not recommended, or even legal in Australia, so get someone with the appropriate certificate to help you out or do the work for you.

When completed the control box looks like this:

The control box uses cables instead of GPO's (Power points, that would have made it look neater) because I had an abundance of left-over computer type cables, which the electric kettle (HERMS), heating elements and pump 12V adapter all use - so it was cheaper and easier to use those, especially in the small sized control box.

As for how things work: Power-in via the two middle gray power-cords directly through the RCD/MCB's. The white and middle black cords are switched (two central switches) for the pump(s) or anything else needed. On the left is the HLT power, controlled by a TempMate digital controller - I had an unused one and they allow for 20A relay, which makes it more suitable than cheaper STC1000 type controllers. On the right is power for the HERMS element, controlled by the PID via the SSR. The last two black power cords (lower outer edges) are direct power for the two kettle elements, switched (via DPDT switches) so that only one of those or the HLT/HERMS can be on at any one time.

 

[Wolfy]

#5: Plumbing - fittings
Blog post

Since I can't weld, the decision to use weldless fittings was made for me, as was to use all stainless and since 1/2 inch size is standard for home-brewers that was a default choice also. However, I did decide to use NTP fittings (U.S. standard thread) based on cost. NTP fittings -purchased from the USA or China (via Ebay) are significantly cheaper than similar local items that have a slightly different thread, luckily at 1/2 inch size, it should not matter if I need to mix in a few locally purchased fittings.

When I purchased them last year (Chi Company, USA) the 'SnapLock' brand camlock fittings were about half the cost of similar local products.

The two 1/2inch thermowells (Ebay: mainlandvf) have both a 1/2 inch thread that screws into the keg and also a 1/2 inch thread to fit a probe - most other thermowells are designed differently.

After checking the prices from four local vendors, and two USA based websites, Chinese Ebay fittings (which are probably exactly the same as all the others anyway) averaged out at about 20-40% cheaper (Ebay: av-rf, dailyappliance2010), with the ball valves - 3piece valves for kettle and mash tun, 2piece for HLT and pump - about 1/3 to 1/2 the price than I could find elsewhere.

 

[Wolfy]

To come:
Drilling holes/attaching fittings (when I do some and take photos).
HERMS (when it's finished).
Hopback (when it's finished).
Other stuff: Sight gauge, insulation, etc (when I do it)
Complete setup (if/when it ever gets finished)
Brew stand (no hurry for this one, need to brew first) for now I'll use the topless-table that one of my neighbours was throwing out:

Obviously one of the major problems with drilling the bottom of the kegs is that you can't put them on a normal table once the fittings are attached.

 

[troopa]

Gonna have to read through this when i get home... but Wolfy dont you sleep mate

Gratz on getting there and i look forward to tasting one of your superb beers off the new system
Btw if your after any other tools let us know mate i probably got them on hand

 

[PhantomEasey]

This is shaping up to look like my intended 3V build, can't wait to see how you finish this bad boy off Wolfy!

 

[DarkFaerytale]

**** hot Wolfy, lovely, well thought out setup. hope it brings you many years of happiness

-Phill

 

[Spoonta]

locking good mate

 

[stux]

If I were to build a 3V it'd look like that

Can't wait for more updates, good luck

 

[JaseH]

Looking good! Cant wait for more progress updates! :icon_cheers:

 

[Wolfy]

#6: False bottom/filter stand-offs

As mentioned in Update #3, the 0.55mm thick perforated stainless used to make the mash false-bottom and kettle filter, is not as heavy duty as the commercial false-bottoms and might not easily hold the weight of the mash (or even sit in place with vigorous stirring). The two threaded pipe fittings arrived today, and after a little bit of work with a grinding disk on the angle grinder, they fit under the false bottom, provide support and should allow the wort to easily drain.

Obviously they'll be installed on the inside of the keg (but would be impossible to photograph there), and the false bottom will sit between the two washers.

Unfortunately my Australian-purchased (via Ebay) 1/2 inch washers don't actually fit 1/2 inch fittings (even though I asked the vendor before buying them), so I'll have to send them back and source some of the right size from overseas. So far, I have gotten and more accurate communication and faster delivery by getting stuff from China than from Australian shops selling stuff on Ebay (and they're about 50% cheaper than retail shops here).

 

[Malted]

#6: False bottom/filter stand-offs

As mentioned in Update #3, the 0.55mm thick perforated stainless used to make the mash false-bottom and kettle filter, is not as heavy duty as the commercial false-bottoms and might not easily hold the weight of the mash (or even sit in place with vigorous stirring).

Unfortunately my Australian-purchased (via Ebay) 1/2 inch washers don't actually fit 1/2 inch fittings (even though I asked the vendor before buying them), so I'll have to send them back and source some of the right size from overseas.

I had a commercially sourced dome false bottom and it used to flex or invert with the weight of grain on top if I ran the pump too hard. It did not after I put a support such as yours in it. If recirculating, don't run the pump flow too fast.

Get a silcone baking sheet and cut it into donuts to use as washers. You can get a piece of metal pipe and sharpen the end, place over baking sheet and whack other end with a hammer. Repeat again with a smaller piece of pipe and now you have a silcone washer factory happening. Most silcone washer made in this manner will be slightly smaller than the object they are going over, you will have to stretch them on to fit. It is probably done this way to get a better seal. You may have had incorrectly sized fibre washers so my answer is not a one size fits all answer.

 

[Wolfy]

Silicon baking sheet is a great idea, and I have one cut-up for making custom-washers (and will use it for the hopback seal also), using a metal pipe is a good idea, because I tried cutting it with a knife and couldnt get them very round.
However, I have a number of silicon flat and o-ring type washers, I just need some more Stainless ones so the fittings will sit correctly when installed (one disadvantage of the NPT fittings is they don't screw all the way up like parallel threaded fittings do).

 

[matho]

looks good wolfy can't wait to see it finished

cheers

 

[vykuza]

Wolfy, it looks great. Thank you for taking the time to share the process in detail with us! I know it takes a lot of time, but it will no doubt help a few along the way!

:beer:

 

[keifer33]

Thanks for sharing Wolfy its given me more inspiration to just order more parts to get my rig closer to being finished and a more permanent setup.

 

[Wolfy]

looks good wolfy can't wait to see it finished

Unfortunately, when it's finished, I suspect it's gong to be rather ugly and not look 'good' at all. :wacko: I picked up a flap-disk in Bunnings just the other day - thinking how 'good' nice shiny stainless bling looks - but put the disk back on the shelf - realizing that it's there to make good beer not look 'good'. At this stage, the plan is to wrap it all in duct-taped insulation, which will be practical, but ugly.

 

[JaseH]

Unfortunately, when it's finished, I suspect it's gong to be rather ugly and not look 'good' at all. :wacko: I picked up a flap-disk in Bunnings just the other day - thinking how 'good' nice shiny stainless bling looks - but put the disk back on the shelf - realizing that it's there to make good beer not look 'good'. At this stage, the plan is to wrap it all in duct-taped insulation, which will be practical, but ugly.

..ahh technical beauty is in the eye of the beerholder when it comes to brew rigs! Doesn't necessarily have to be neat and tidy to be a thing of beauty!

I've wrapped my MT in a camp mat and silver duct tape it actually comes up looking quite neat if you do a good job!

 

[matho]

..ahh technical beauty is in the eye of the beerholder when it comes to brew rigs! Doesn't necessarily have to be neat and tidy to be a thing of beauty!

I've wrapped my MT in a camp mat and silver duct tape it actually comes up looking quite neat if you do a good job!

yep this is what my HLT looks like but it still looks good to me



the pump is only attached for the test I was doing

cheers steve

 

[Yorg]

Looks pretty enough to me.

 

[Wolfy]

#7: Keg Drilling

Drilling kegs is another topic that is a common source of discussion (and contention) among home brewers looking to build their own systems. After using the cheap step-bit from Bunnings to drill the tap-holes on my beer-fridge, I knew that it would not be up to the task of cutting holes in the beer kegs. In addition, the various discussions I had read on the subject made seem like something that would be beyond my very basic DIY skills. Those people who picked up grain at the recent bulk buy, may have noticed iamozziyob drilling some kegs, my kegs, because I assumed that I wouldn't be able to do it - and now feel like a **** because - with the right tools - it's a simple and easy task.

In this case the right tools are quite simple, a drill capable of controlled sustained low speed (less than 300RPM) combined with a decent amount of torque, and a Tungsten Carbide Tipped (TCT) Hole Saw of the appropriate size. The hole saw will cost around $30 (mine was from Keg King) but it should last a life-time (the guys at Keg King have drilled more than 80 kegs with theirs and it's still working fine). The only other thing needed is some cutting lubricant or WD40 to help keep things cool while drilling and prevent work-hardening the stainless and/or ruining the hole saw.

20mm hole saws are the best size for 1/2 inch fittings, but you do generally need to make the holes just a fraction larger once they are cut, 32mm hole saw is the exact right fit for the Keg King heating elements.

Mark the location to be drilled, ensuring that it's not too close to any seams or curved edges on the keg, using a washer as a spacer helps to ensure that the fitting will sit correctly once fitted in the drilled hole.

If your DIY skills are like mine, a piece of tape will stop the drill bit slipping on the curved stainless surface while drilling the pilot hole.

Low speed setting on the drill, some decent pressure, stopping every now and then to spray on some more cutting lubricant ...

... and in just a few minutes the hole saw should punch through the stainless leaving a nice clean hole.

The 20mm size hole saw is just a fraction too small for most 1/2 inch fittings, interestingly I have a range of fittings and the hole size required seems to depend on which fittings are going to be used, so it's good to check the individual fitting to ensure that you don't make the hole too big.

A small amount of manual labour with a file, a dremel type tool or anything similar will widen the hole just enough so that the fittings slip inside.

This is the thermowell which will be fitted to the base of the HLT, the TempMate probe will slide inside.

With the right tools, drilling neat and clean 1/2 inch keg holes is actually a very simple and easy procedure that anyone should be able to do.

Thanks to iamozziyob for the use of his 20mm TCT Hole Saw (it was rusted like that when I got it from you yesterday!) and for drilling the majority of the holes in my kegs for me - even though I now feel foolish since it's not a difficult job at all.

 

[Yob]

Cheers wolfy, the trick certainly is having the right tool, those step drill bits are so **** in comparison to the TCT hole saws.. Also, those ozito dremmel type rotary tools make the clean up of the holes pretty quick.

Cant wait to see the system fire up.

Yob

 

[Truman42]

Not a bad skill set for someone with office hands. Well done, it looks great.

 

[sponge]

Hey Wolfy,

Thanks for the thread as I'm just about to get started on turning a keg into a MT at the moment and these step by step instructions with pictures are making things a whole lot less intimidating to the whole project.

I was actually looking at a couple of TCT hole saw's for the hole's as I don't have much faith with my step drill bit, and after seeing your last post, looks like I was on the money with my suspicions.

Just wondering if you think these will be suitable. I just thought they were a little on the cheap side and hesitant on getting them.

I've also got a 1 1/4" element I'm going to install into my current HLT (usingn over the side immersion element atm) and would be looking at getting another size from the same seller if they are suitable.

Cheers heaps,


Sponge

 

[MaestroMatt]

Freaking inspirational, Wolfy. I'm gobsmacked.

 

[sponge]

(continuing from previous comment)

Or would something like this be a little more suitable?


Sponge

 

[Malted]

(continuing from previous comment)

Or would something like this be a little more suitable?


Sponge

Option two looks much better to me.
Option one was just the saw with no arbor (the drill bit and the thing that holds it and the saw) - It also had only one tooth and said for soft ceramics and composite timbers.

What about the 22mm one? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tungsten-Tipped...=item27b0663c8e No dremel needed to enlarge the hole.

This one is probably not TCT but it IS cheaper ($7.92, free postage from Hong Kong): http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/22MM-Hex-Wrench...=item5ae699f130



Edit: Very interesting observation by Frothie below. Makes a lot of sense.