Whirlpool

[Tilt]

Thanks Mark - very useful description re the scale of too little vs too much break and the effects of each - and reinforced for me too that hot and cold break are parts of the same continuum, not distinctly separate things.
Your comment on boiling longer reminds me of Bamforths comments on boil vigour - something like needing enough turnover for the proteins to bash into each other to stick together and floc.
I have noticed more turbidity in my 55L. double batches before I started using a medium pressure reg with decent heat output to get a rolling boil.
Thanks for putting my mind at rest about cold break though.... now time to think about making that counter flow chiller.

 

[MHB]

If you see anything by Charlie - Read It, he is to my mind one of the best writers around.
Caveat being Standards of Brewing - nothing can make QA fun, but if you have to read about it (would rather have a root canal) even that one is probably the best introduction to the subject.

M

 

[Tilt]

I've enjoyed his episodes on the Brewing Network but haven't chased his books yet. Might have to do so once I've worked my way through Gordon Strong's latest.

 

[pcmax]

Been reading this thread with a lot of interest as I am a new Brewer and have yet to do an all grain (still getting all the gear together) I have an old keg that I have converted to a kettle with a half inch ball valve and a T shape hop filter that connects to the ball valve and sits at the bottom of the kettle around the periphery.
My question is can I just whirlpool by hand for a few minutes after the boil and then drain into the FV given that the hop screen is sitting nowhere near the middle of the kettle where the hop material etc will be sitting.
Oh I also plan to chill the wort via a reverse flow chiller as it transfers to the FV.

 

[user 36151]

Been reading this thread with a lot of interest as I am a new Brewer and have yet to do an all grain (still getting all the gear together) I have an old keg that I have converted to a kettle with a half inch ball valve and a T shape hop filter that connects to the ball valve and sits at the bottom of the kettle around the periphery.
My question is can I just whirlpool by hand for a few minutes after the boil and then drain into the FV given that the hop screen is sitting nowhere near the middle of the kettle where the hop material etc will be sitting.
Oh I also plan to chill the wort via a reverse flow chiller as it transfers to the FV.

This is my set up compression olive on the ball valve and 1/2 inch tube to the side. Never used a keggle so unsure how they go with trub cone due to cone shape bottom. But yes whirlpool by hand is fine start slow and get it up to a fast pace so u see a vortex in the centre then cover and walk away for half hour cool down the burner and stand also helps

 

[MHB]

Osprey, that's nice, a really tight trub cone. You might even be able to draw down a little more wort, I have ground off the bottom half of a couple of pick up tubes so they are laying flat on the bottom, reduces the wort height to about 6mm.
A flat bottomed pot really is the nuts, I don't think you can get as good a result in a keg or domed kettle.

Notice the complete absence of hop strainers/spiders, sieves, bits of stainless pot scrubber, T junctions... - just a well designed kettle and good brewing practice.
Mark

 

[bear09]

*** My successful whirlpool secret revealed here***

My whirlpool technique is full ghetto - I just give the wort a firm fast stir with a spoon for about 30-40 seconds and then put the lid on and walk away. Here is the secret - DONT LIFT THE LID. I dont know if there is physics to back this up (ie air pressure or hydro dynamics) but this has brought me much success in an area where I used to always fail. By leaving the lid on the kettle until transfer to fermentor or cube (this theory works for both chill and no chill) is complete the whirlpool is much more successful.

How this was discovered: One day I had made a very light batch of beer (light as in EBC/color) and half way through my transfer (which was running clear) I lifted the lid on the kettle for a sneaky peek only to watch the cone of break and hops collapse and to then look over at my transfer line and watch it turn to mud (much to my dismay!). Right then and there the lesson was learned - DONT LIFT THE LID DURING TRANSFER.

Since doing this I have had major success just by whilpooling with a spoon for 30-40 seconds - both chill and no chill. Try it and see for yourself.

 

[user 36151]

Osprey, that's nice, a really tight trub cone. You might even be able to draw down a little more wort, I have ground off the bottom half of a couple of pick up tubes so they are laying flat on the bottom, reduces the wort height to about 6mm.
A flat bottomed pot really is the nuts, I don't think you can get as good a result in a keg or domed kettle.

Notice the complete absence of hop strainers/spiders, sieves, bits of stainless pot scrubber, T junctions... - just a well designed kettle and good brewing practice.
Mark

will be grinding a flat spot on the bottom for sure good idea .The pick up was your handy work thanks again.
Troy

 

[MHB]

welcome
M