What Ale Now

[Gout]

Anyone have idea's on what to brew now (Ale grain)

I Have a Jayse pale ale - yum,
just did a porter
have a stout

finishing off a lager.
have some wheat beer in bottles.

not sure what to brew now. I am getting the "pale ale" book for X-mas, I bought it gave it to the miss's to give to me hehe (only prob is i paid for it )


thinking a British Pale ale / bitter

I just want somthing different from my other brews.
rather than cascade maybe goldings?
somthing like Coopers pale ale
or somthing really malty?

not sure .......

maybe a oatmeal stout (but i have a keg of stout and porter so i think it can wait


I want to get the yeast starter going can decide, American Ale yeast, or London Ale.

Done 2 with the American, so maybe time for the London ale again...

 

[big d]

oh the choices of an all grainer
how about having a crack at the enormous range of belgium styles or
maybe a german kolsch
oktoberfest and vienna lagers
bocks/doppelbocks
german rauchbier
pilsners
blah blah blah.
the list goes on and the choice is yourse.
gee im gonna have some fun with my ag set up in 04
hope you have fun experimenting ben

cheers
big d B)
batten down the hatches its windy up here

 

[Jovial_Monk]

try a one malt, one hop bitter

calculate recipe for 30L batch, collect only enough for normal 25L (in kettle) batch bitter/flavor/aroma/dryhpp with whole goldings


will be awesome brew








Jovial Monk

 

[Guest Lurker]

Yes, go with your first thought. Goldings are often used in malty ales where their flavour is a bit lost. Do a paler ale using all Goldings for bittering, flavour and aroma, plugs are good but pellets work pretty well, and make a superb beer IMHO.

 

[Doc]

How about an Irish Red ?
I did one a week ago and racked it yesterday. Tasting great.

Beers,
Doc

 

[Gout]

mmmm now my mind is more confused.... they all sound good. Ok beer brewing family, what Yeast should i start up, the london ale, or America Ale...

I wont do the pilsner as its to hot for my setup to brew lagers. So Ale it is. (A Kolsh and the others are lager's?? or atleast lager temps and do they require long CC as i cant really CC or lager at the moment)

Irish red sounds good, do you have a AG recipe Doc'o

Also with a One grain brew, do you get the complexity? Would be good to find out what each malt taste like.

I thought you need a base malt with its conversion powers and you add your more complex malts to that.

I only have like 2Kg's of each of the venna malts etc i think i have 5Kg of munich. etc

i have 25Kg of pils and ale malt. Plan was these would suit my brewin needs as a base and i can add other malts to suit.

P.S i have Goldings plugs so i will use these.

 

[Jovial_Monk]

London Ale emphasizes maltiness, go with that, it is a great ale yeast

If you have some Munich, add a kilo of that to the grist as well perhaps, again to emphasize maltiness

But if you havew Halcyon or maris otter, definitely try just all pale


The conversion power of pale malt is needed with adjuncts (non-malted grains turned into flaked or puffed barley, wheat etc)






Jovial Monk

 

[Jovial_Monk]

Umm, complexity

you know how to add complexity?

a one malt one hop beer will have a sufficient depth of clean strong flavors to keep you happy







JM

 

[Gout]

I have Joe white pils and Ale.

So do you think i should use 1Kg munich with the remainder pils or ale?

or try all ale / pils grain brew?
I will use london ale, and goldings plugs. Brew at about 18 deg?!? and 2ndry for about 2weeks then CC in Keg for 2weeks - 2months (as it comes onto tap)

 

[Jovial_Monk]

Personally, I would brew your bitter with just the ale malt and Golding hops (dryhop with a plug in secondary) Work out the grain bill as if you are going to brew 30L then collect the same amount, very rich runnings then

Next time, add a kilo Munich malt and taste the difference. . .







Jovial Monk

 

[Gout]

I might try the following from grain and grape web site i think i tried this when i was there, if so it was nice.


Grains 4500 gms British Ale
1000 gms Light Munich
300 gms Crystal (Lightest colour available)
100 gms Wheat
Mashing regimes are many and varied. Most English malts are very well modified
and only need a simple single step infusion mash to obtain very good results.
Adjuncts - 250 gms Golden Syrup.
Hops - Aim at 45 IBU's using Northern Brewer for Bittering, Goldings or
Fuggles, for flavour, aroma and dry hopping. (I recommend dry hopping with
30 gms Goldings after racking)
Total boil time should be 90 minutes with the hops boiled for only 60 minutes.
Yeast - I recommend Wyeast 1098 (See above) or Wyeast 1318 London Ale III


I will use londone ale (1) i have the starter going now. I will also have my pale ale book on x-mas day so i can brew after that if the misses lets me grrrr

another from the vic brew 1st place in English pale Ale:

4kg pale ale malt (IMC)
400g Amber Malt (joe white)
250g Crystal Malt
250g rolled oats

mash at 67deg

40g goldings 60 min
20g goldings 15 min
30g goldings 30sec

American Ale yeast
prim fermentation 20 deg 3 days
secondry 3 days
CC 30 days
OG 1048
FG 1008

120.5/150 score

 

[Gout]

JM, what SG would you plan for?

eg 1050. I dont understand why i'd plan for 30Lt but cut it back to 22Lt. (sorry still new to AG)

would planing for a strong 22Lt be the same as a normal 30Lt cut back to 22Lt?

thanks mate i might try your ale idea. It will be more informative as per what malts hae what effect etc.

 

[Murray]

JM has described something close to my first AG brew, which turned out fantastic. Specialty malts can be good, but are far from necessary.

 

[Jovial_Monk]

OK

"the base the recipe on 30L and collect the normal amount for 23L batch in the fermenter" means that the last runnings you collect will have an SG of like 1030, i.e. you will only have fairly rich, flavorful runnings in the kettle. Your beer will be flavorsome and malty, ably offset by the goldings.

Jovial Monk

 

[Gout]

ahh gotcha!

so you give up a little extra malt but you get higher quality run off

thanks mate

 

[Jovial_Monk]

Grasshopper learn fast!



JM

Admin edit: Sparse post

 

[joecast]

sorry, but this beetle needs it spelled out..

you mean use less sparge water??

 

[Jovial_Monk]

Joe, you are Andys's friend, right?

I I wanted to brew 23L (in the fermenter) beer I would normally sparge 27L, 2L would be boiled off and 2L trapped in the hops in the bottom of my kettle.

Now, if I wanted to brew a maltier beer I would pretend i wanted to end up with 30L in the kettle post-boil, and calculate the total amount of grains needed to end up with 30L of wort of target gravity. Of course, this would be more grain than needed to end up with 25l wort of the same gravity

so, more grain in the tun, right?

then sparge with the same amount of sparge water as usual and collect the usual 27L.

We collect the same amount of wort from a larger amount of grain, so the last runnings are thicker than is usually the case, resulting in a maltier beer


and used no crystal malt!






Jovial Monk

 

[RobW]

Ben
I made that Grain & Grape IPA last month & although it's still a bit young & precocious I reckon in another few weeks it won't be too bad.

 

[joecast]

JM,
thanks for the explaination. its all coming together for me now. once i (finally) try it myself, im sure ill understand things a whole lot better.
dont think i know andy though.
joe