Urn For Biab

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Got the grains, but they weren't crushed like I asked for. Used the wife's "Magic Bullet" which can grind coffee, and used that. Took me over an hour to do it all but it looks ok. It's a bit fine, but looks very similar to Nick JD's photo in his biab thread.

My pot and burner also showed up tonight, but the regulator doesn't fit the burner...should have paid the extra $20 and got one with it. Oh well, down to Mitre10 in the weekend to get another one. :rolleyes:

Hopefully be ready to go this weekend, or next.


Crikey!!! Nearly showered the computer in beer!!! My wife's "Magic Bullet" doesn't grind coffee but it sure as heck does some "grinding". Not sure what she'd say if I started using it. :D
 
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If you recirculate the wort through the grain your beer will be a lot more clear.

Seriously doubt that. Recirculating mash in a dedicated mash tun will certainly improve wort clarity, but any gain in clarity once the grain bed is set in a biab setup will be destroyed when you lift the bag, as the action of doing so will completely disturb the grain bed.

Placebo effect maybe.


You would definitely want your hops in a bag you can remove I would think. Otherwise you would have to account for the extra "cube / birko hopping"

No.

It makes no real practical difference. Isomerisation continues whether the plant matter is still there or not.

Yes.

As bum states, it's the oils that we as brewers are interested in, not the "plant matter" so to speak.
 
Sorry Nath, the bag is raised as shown. Wort is poured through the grain. The grain acts like a filter taking many tiny particles out of the wort improving clarity.
Seriously doubt that. Recirculating mash in a dedicated mash tun will certainly improve wort clarity, but any gain in clarity once the grain bed is set in a biab setup will be destroyed when you lift the bag, as the action of doing so will completely disturb the grain bed.

Placebo effect maybe.




No.



Yes.

As bum states, it's the oils that we as brewers are interested in, not the "plant matter" so to speak.
 
Sorry Nath, the bag is raised as shown. Wort is poured through the grain. The grain acts like a filter taking many tiny particles out of the wort improving clarity.

yeah, i understand that.

I'm originally a 3V all grain brewer, so i'm more than comfortable with the concepts of grain beds.

I don't believe it's possible though, to have a grain bed forming in a biab setup to stay intact enough to retain any clarity improvements when you've pulled the mash from the liquor. Particularly if you're gonna sparge with the bag hanging, and the grain bed squeezed inside the bag.

I don't know your history and level of experience, and i'm not implying im more experienced, but have you brewed with a dedicated, more traditional mash tun? ie, removing the liquor from the mash instead of removing the mash from the liquor?
If you've only ever done BIAB, i understand the thinking behind what you're doing, but i disagree that sparging a biab bag will yeild clearer results.
Recirculating through a traditional mash process will certainly give clearer results, but i don't believe it will apply for BIAB.
I also don't consider this a problem though, as my beers clear up nicely anyway with a quick cold condition, and careful trub separation in the kettle prior to opening the tap.

FWIW, the recirculating BIAB rig in my signature (which is actually Mk.1 - i'm on to my second incarnation of my rig) certainly creates a "grain bed" or sorts, in much the same way that my mash tun does from my 3V rig (which i still have), but as soon as it's disturbed by hoisting the bag, i've lost all clarity gains.
Important to note, that i didn't construct the recirculating rig to benefit clarity at all, it's more for temp control than anything else.
 
Merely pulling the bag from the mash leaves a cloudy soup.

When BIAB (with bag squeezing) wins experiments comparing multiple methods ... we're still talking about wort clarity?

Matters SFA. Finito. Capiche?
 
No worries Nath,I'm only stating what I have witnessed multiple times. You are stating your beliefs.
Then you confirm that by recirculating a grain bed of sorts is formed. And clarity gains are lost when hoisting. Note that my biab bag is stainless mesh and that it is hoisted prior to recirculating the wort. Seems you accidentally agree.
The Wort has less particles as they have been filtered out through the grain.Makes for clearer wort. Means my beer clears up earlier than when I did not recirculate. That's how it happens every time I brew.
yeah, i understand that.

I'm originally a 3V all grain brewer, so i'm more than comfortable with the concepts of grain beds.

I don't believe it's possible though, to have a grain bed forming in a biab setup to stay intact enough to retain any clarity improvements when you've pulled the mash from the liquor. Particularly if you're gonna sparge with the bag hanging, and the grain bed squeezed inside the bag.

I don't know your history and level of experience, and i'm not implying im more experienced, but have you brewed with a dedicated, more traditional mash tun? ie, removing the liquor from the mash instead of removing the mash from the liquor?
If you've only ever done BIAB, i understand the thinking behind what you're doing, but i disagree that sparging a biab bag will yeild clearer results.
Recirculating through a traditional mash process will certainly give clearer results, but i don't believe it will apply for BIAB.
I also don't consider this a problem though, as my beers clear up nicely anyway with a quick cold condition, and careful trub separation in the kettle prior to opening the tap.

FWIW, the recirculating BIAB rig in my signature (which is actually Mk.1 - i'm on to my second incarnation of my rig) certainly creates a "grain bed" or sorts, in much the same way that my mash tun does from my 3V rig (which i still have), but as soon as it's disturbed by hoisting the bag, i've lost all clarity gains.
Important to note, that i didn't construct the recirculating rig to benefit clarity at all, it's more for temp control than anything else.
 
Wort clarity into the kettle is different with BIAB (actually it's in the kettle to start off with) - it's wort clarity into the chiller or cube that is the main thing.

Using a good kettle floccer such as BrewBright generally solves that on the spot. Also with BIAB in an urn it's simply a question then of putting the lid on the urn, covering with a clean cloth if you want to be really picky, and give it a 20 minute settling period before running off to chiller or cube.

Of course you can lose a bit of wort to the trub, with usually about a litre and a half of sludge left in the urn. I save all this in a couple of glass lab jars and let it cool overnight as if they are micro-nochill cubes themselves. This lets me recover about 3/4 litre which I can boil up for a late hopping addition or use in a starter, so wastage is minimal.
 
No worries Nath,I'm only stating what I have witnessed multiple times. You are stating your beliefs.
Then you confirm that by recirculating a grain bed of sorts is formed. And clarity gains are lost when hoisting. Note that my biab bag is stainless mesh and that it is hoisted prior to recirculating the wort. Seems you accidentally agree. The Wort has less particles as they have been filtered out through the grain.Makes for clearer wort. Means my beer clears up earlier than when I did not recirculate. That's how it happens every time I brew.

Don't agree at all GB.

I don't reckon it matters what your material of your bag is made of, i'd bet my left nut that the very action of lifting your bag/mesh/basket/bucket (whatever we each use as our "bag") disturbs your grain bed and small particles that would otherwise be left in the grain bed would escape.
The art of recirculating a grain bed in a typical setup with a mash tun is a very gentle thing - so you don't disturb the bed.

In your photo, you have a mate "recirculating"??? wort through your hoisted bag. That's not recirculating. Pouring wort back in from a height on top of a grain bed is gonna be quite a violent application of liquid to the grain bed and is gonna present problems for clarity, that is if they concern you at all.

FWIW, the more turbid wort that i get in my kettle after hoisting the bag matters sweet **** all, as it all catches up later in the bottom of my fermenter, and i get clear beer anyway.

Just pointing out that pouring wort back through the grains is a far cry from recirculating and you're either misinformed or fooling yourself if you think otherwise.

Not a character attack mate, just don't want other potential and less experienced brewers to read this and think that this is a method that will deliver nice clear wort back into the kettle pre boil.
What you're actually doing is more of a sparge, except you're using wort instead of fresh supply of hot water.

If you said that the reason you are recirculating the wort back through the bag when hoisted was more to do with hopefully trying to extract more sugars, i'd be more inclined to agree.
Either don't worry about recirculating, or if you want to pour back through a hanging bag, i'd use clean water and call it a sparge. Adjust strike volumes to allow this.
 
I'm running both a 3V and a recirculating BIAB system (only 2 brews so far though on the latter), also was a traditional BIAB'er for a long time initially. Prior to me lifting the bag I find both worts clarify no problems. After I've lifted the bag and finished dumping the runnings from the bucket back into the kettle, I find the wort pre-boil from the 3V far clearer than the recirculating BIAB. I don't sparge the BIAB or squeeze the bag at all, just lift the bag and drop it in a bucket to collect any naturally draining wort. I assume sparging etc would disturb it more, and wash more crap out from the grain bed.

edit: Noticed Big Nath has posted a comment while I was typing this one. I agree with what he has said, as I think we have both basically said the same thing.

QldKev
 
Funny stuff.
Small particles are trapped in the grain, This has worked many times.
Even though wort is poured in.
Rekoning, betting nuts, theories etc is all just talk when I have seen this work.
If your so sure of yourself find a long rope and abseil down off your super high horse and give it a go.
I would like to thank you for looking out for less experienced brewers such as myself.
Have not taken any of you comments as character attacks so no worries there.
If anything I have been very interested by your opinions on how something that works in the physical does not work.



Don't agree at all GB.

I don't reckon it matters what your material of your bag is made of, i'd bet my left nut that the very action of lifting your bag/mesh/basket/bucket (whatever we each use as our "bag") disturbs your grain bed and small particles that would otherwise be left in the grain bed would escape.
The art of recirculating a grain bed in a typical setup with a mash tun is a very gentle thing - so you don't disturb the bed.

In your photo, you have a mate "recirculating"??? wort through your hoisted bag. That's not recirculating. Pouring wort back in from a height on top of a grain bed is gonna be quite a violent application of liquid to the grain bed and is gonna present problems for clarity, that is if they concern you at all.

FWIW, the more turbid wort that i get in my kettle after hoisting the bag matters sweet **** all, as it all catches up later in the bottom of my fermenter, and i get clear beer anyway.

Just pointing out that pouring wort back through the grains is a far cry from recirculating and you're either misinformed or fooling yourself if you think otherwise.

Not a character attack mate, just don't want other potential and less experienced brewers to read this and think that this is a method that will deliver nice clear wort back into the kettle pre boil.
What you're actually doing is more of a sparge, except you're using wort instead of fresh supply of hot water.

If you said that the reason you are recirculating the wort back through the bag when hoisted was more to do with hopefully trying to extract more sugars, i'd be more inclined to agree.
Either don't worry about recirculating, or if you want to pour back through a hanging bag, i'd use clean water and call it a sparge. Adjust strike volumes to allow this.
 
Funny stuff.
Small particles are trapped in the grain, This has worked many times.
Even though wort is poured in.
Rekoning, betting nuts, theories etc is all just talk when I have seen this work.
If your so sure of yourself find a long rope and abseil down off your super high horse and give it a go.
I would like to thank you for looking out for less experienced brewers such as myself.
Have not taken any of you comments as character attacks so no worries there.
If anything I have been very interested by your opinions on how something that works in the physical does not work.

GB,
Everyone has their own opinions & what you say may work just fine for you but Nath & Kev are correct in what they are saying. They're not criticizing you, just pointing out what will happen. You may get a little more clarity sparging that way but I don't think so either. Recirculating through the grain bed with a traditional 3V set up is not going to be the same as vourlouffing like you are doing. The grain bed needs time to compact & settle & this way won't get you there. As to why you believe you need a clear wort into your kettle is your choice & your decision but don't think that it's necessary for a better beer than a turbid wort into the boil kettle, it makes no difference at all. I used to be a 3V brewer with beautiful clear wort into my boil kettle. I now Biab in an urn & get quite turbid wort into my kettle but crystal clear wort into my no chill cube. I think recirculating is more for temp control & efficiency rather than clarity, it matters not.
 
Cheers Crusty,
Since i started tipping the wort through the grain bed I noticed improved wort clarity.
On close inspection of the grain in the mesh bag it is trapping many fine particles, even in extreem cases to the point of it not being able to let the wort though.
I expect that would be the equivilent of a stuck sparge on a traditional 3V.
This makes the wort clear and I suspect it may lessen the amount of sludge left at the bottom of the kettle once it has cooled. (I have not measured that, only an observation)
I do not mind getting told at all, love to learn.
Stating fact only to be told by someone who was not there that it did not happen was of intrest.
I was not comparing what I am doing to 3V or anything other than not pouring wort through the grain bed.
Therefore I still say it makes a difference and Nath shold try it if he is so sure it does not work.

GB,
Everyone has their own opinions & what you say may work just fine for you but Nath & Kev are correct in what they are saying. They're not criticizing you, just pointing out what will happen. You may get a little more clarity sparging that way but I don't think so either. Recirculating through the grain bed with a traditional 3V set up is not going to be the same as vourlouffing like you are doing. The grain bed needs time to compact & settle & this way won't get you there. As to why you believe you need a clear wort into your kettle is your choice & your decision but don't think that it's necessary for a better beer than a turbid wort into the boil kettle, it makes no difference at all. I used to be a 3V brewer with beautiful clear wort into my boil kettle. I now Biab in an urn & get quite turbid wort into my kettle but crystal clear wort into my no chill cube. I think recirculating is more for temp control & efficiency rather than clarity, it matters not.
 
Therefore I still say it makes a difference and Nath shold try it if he is so sure it does not work.

How do you know i haven't tried it?

I know you're not comparing it to 3V brewing, but the reason i brought it up, was that people have different perspectives of how clear is "clear" sometimes, and if you have nothing to compare it to, then i'm sure you're getting clear beer/wort.

Those "small particles" that you see in your grain bed? They are getting trapped are in everyone's mash whether they sparge, recirculate, biab or 2V/3V/4V brew. I see them in my mash tun and i see them in my BIAB post draining.

The even smaller particles have already fallen out of the bag/mesh as you've raised it. they are now in the bottom of your kettle.
Just because pouring your wort back through your grain probably appears to come out clearish or even super-*******-clear out the bottom of the bag, doesn't mean your method is working. Damage has already been done (so to speak) in my opinion.

If you're sure that tipping wort back through a hanging grain bed in a mesh bag is a good idea, then keep going with it.
I am suggesting, you may not understand just how clear wort CAN be going into the kettle, hence the comparison to using a mash tun. If you ever use a mash tun, and recirculate in that, (where the grain bed doesn't get disrupted) when you open the tap to transfer the runnings to kettle, THEN you'll understand clear wort. You're wort in a biab setup will be cloudier as soon as you START to lift the bag, before you even see the runnings coming out of it, and this is where i'm saying your method is in some ways, pointless.

What i would suggest is that instead of using your wort to do what you're trying to achieve, why not try doing it with a fresh supply of water?

It's the same thing right??? :huh:

Have you considered that you might actually be trapping some of the sugar that's in the wort by running it back through the grain bed? Using clean water guarantees that you won't have this POTENTIAL problem, it'll also yield higher effiiciency - that's not a guarantee, but it certainly is a guarantee that your efficiency won't go down as it might if you lose some of the sugars by using wort to pour through the bed.

But hey, what the **** do i know.... there are several other brewers in the last few posts who agree with me, and are telling you that there might be a better way.
Both Kev and Crusty, are MUCH more experienced brewers than myself, i have learnt heaps from both of them over the years. I'd listen to them.

EVERY brewer i've talked to, read from, asked questions too, seems to universally accept a more turbid (cloudy) wort going into the kettle when using BIAB methods. It is what it is. Can't really do a whole lot about it, so we move on and improve other processes to regain our clarity if required, further down the brewday path - Better whirlpooling, using flocculation agents, get better at transferring post boil, cold conditioning, gelatine, filtering...**** the list goes on...

You seem to have stumbled on a magical process that works for you and only you, so keep doing what you're doing.

oh, and i don't really like horses that much. Certainly not enough to climb up on one.
 
Understanding that you believe this method is in some ways, pointless because you know better.
The grain sitting in the bag is filtering particles making for much clearer wort than if I do not do it.
Your replys do not detract from this fact because it happens.

If I saw a blue dog and 5 dog specialists said there are no blue dogs it would not change my opinion that I saw a blue dog.


How do you know i haven't tried it?

I know you're not comparing it to 3V brewing, but the reason i brought it up, was that people have different perspectives of how clear is "clear" sometimes, and if you have nothing to compare it to, then i'm sure you're getting clear beer/wort.

Those "small particles" that you see in your grain bed? They are getting trapped are in everyone's mash whether they sparge, recirculate, biab or 2V/3V/4V brew. I see them in my mash tun and i see them in my BIAB post draining.

The even smaller particles have already fallen out of the bag/mesh as you've raised it. they are now in the bottom of your kettle.
Just because pouring your wort back through your grain probably appears to come out clearish or even super-*******-clear out the bottom of the bag, doesn't mean your method is working. Damage has already been done (so to speak) in my opinion.

If you're sure that tipping wort back through a hanging grain bed in a mesh bag is a good idea, then keep going with it.
I am suggesting, you may not understand just how clear wort CAN be going into the kettle, hence the comparison to using a mash tun. If you ever use a mash tun, and recirculate in that, (where the grain bed doesn't get disrupted) when you open the tap to transfer the runnings to kettle, THEN you'll understand clear wort. You're wort in a biab setup will be cloudier as soon as you START to lift the bag, before you even see the runnings coming out of it, and this is where i'm saying your method is in some ways, pointless.

What i would suggest is that instead of using your wort to do what you're trying to achieve, why not try doing it with a fresh supply of water?

It's the same thing right??? :huh:

Have you considered that you might actually be trapping some of the sugar that's in the wort by running it back through the grain bed? Using clean water guarantees that you won't have this POTENTIAL problem, it'll also yield higher effiiciency - that's not a guarantee, but it certainly is a guarantee that your efficiency won't go down as it might if you lose some of the sugars by using wort to pour through the bed.

But hey, what the **** do i know.... there are several other brewers in the last few posts who agree with me, and are telling you that there might be a better way.
Both Kev and Crusty, are MUCH more experienced brewers than myself, i have learnt heaps from both of them over the years. I'd listen to them.

EVERY brewer i've talked to, read from, asked questions too, seems to universally accept a more turbid (cloudy) wort going into the kettle when using BIAB methods. It is what it is. Can't really do a whole lot about it, so we move on and improve other processes to regain our clarity if required, further down the brewday path - Better whirlpooling, using flocculation agents, get better at transferring post boil, cold conditioning, gelatine, filtering...**** the list goes on...

You seem to have stumbled on a magical process that works for you and only you, so keep doing what you're doing.

oh, and i don't really like horses that much. Certainly not enough to climb up on one.
 
Nice and clear in the kettle, then leave it to cool down for 2 or 3 days with a bit of glad wrap over the top.

WOW
 
Got a new regulator for my gas burner, my existing one had a different connection. Looks like I will be doing my BIAB next weekend. I ground the grains on Wednesday (or Thursday, can't remember), they've been in plastic bags in the fridge since then. Will they still be ok in another weeks time?

I've heard some people say that they only last a couple of weeks once crushed, other say months. What's the general consensus here?
 
Got a new regulator for my gas burner, my existing one had a different connection. Looks like I will be doing my BIAB next weekend. I ground the grains on Wednesday (or Thursday, can't remember), they've been in plastic bags in the fridge since then. Will they still be ok in another weeks time?

I've heard some people say that they only last a couple of weeks once crushed, other say months. What's the general consensus here?

Should be fine for a week or two mate. I'd be careful about leaving in the fridge unless totally airtight though as moisture wouldn't be good for it. Better off in the pantry or somewhere cool, dry and dark.
 
Should be fine for a week or two mate. I'd be careful about leaving in the fridge unless totally airtight though as moisture wouldn't be good for it. Better off in the pantry or somewhere cool, dry and dark.

They're in sealed zip lock type bags, so should be airtight.
 
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