Temp Controller

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peas_and_corn

I'm sorry Dave, I'm afraid I cannot mash that
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Anyway, I bought the following temp controller from Dreamboat-

100_0209__Medium_.JPG
100_0210__Medium_.JPG

Dad removed the back bit for whatever reason he had...

Anyway, I have had a search of the forum for info on how to connect this to a fermentation fridge, but couldn't find anything useful. So... How do I connect this to my fermentation fridge??

My dad's a sparkie, but looking over the instruction manual just confirmed to him that it's a complicated device. Some help will be appreciated, since I have already bought the ingredients for my next batch- it's a lager, so the fridge needs to be up and running for it to be possible!

Cheers,

Dave
 

BrissyBrew

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I have a couple pids too, the only downside is i need to work out how to program them (current stage is still trying to view the unlock codes to be able to get into the config menu). Then I need some SSRs.
 

Justin

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Well firstly showing a picture of the controller helps in no way at all because you need to provide the model number so we can work out what type of output it has. PID controllers are not all the same. Luckily I have the number here, PYZ4TAY2-1V because you outbid me you [email protected]$tard :p :D

Secondly, a PID controller is massive over kill for a fermentation fridge and in reality not needed at all. In fact wiring it to control your fridge is more complicated than using a simple ALDO or Tobins mechanical thermostat (both of which are rated for 15 amps so you can use them directly inline). Another good option would have been the Dixel temp controllers that Dreamboat has been getting for the guys on the forum here. They are simple to wire and simple to use.

Unfortunately on the PID controller you will need to buy another relay (SSR or mechanical-even more equipment required to run the SSR like a 12V power supply because the control doesn't supply it's own low voltage DC output for SSR control) that can handle the current draw from the fridge and wire that in to swtich the main power line input to the fridge, this is because your controllers relay can only handle [email protected] so it will end up burning out the controllers relay. I'm surprised you Dad couldn't work this out given he's a sparky but anyway.

Your also going to need to program your controller with a dead band of 4-5C to prevent your fridge turning on and off everytime there is a 0.1C drop in temperature (obviously this depends on what it's currently set up as) otherwise the life of your fridge is going to be greatly reduced. Fridges aren't designed to cycle on and off rapidly and often, it's hard work for them.

I would suspect you would also want to diasble the PID control.

Given your Dad's a sparky sounds like you would have been better off going for the Tobins thermostat and the wiring diagram I have supplied on this site. For $60 it would have been built and installed in the time it took to write the post nearly.

As for the programming side of it, your the best one to work that out because you have the manual and the controller sitting in front of you.

Good luck.

Cheers, Justin
 

dreamboat

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I think I had already shut off the PID functions, so that should be one less thing to worry about.
Check out the setpoint, adjust it to somewhere near ambient, then warm and cool the probe (cold water or something) to see if the output switches on and off....


dreamboat
 

poiter

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I heard the Dixell temp controller mentioned. I have an XR10C and want to use it as a plug and play unit so it can be swapped from fridge to fridge. I have it connected to 240v supply and have put the probe in the fridge. The digital read out works. I attached a 3 pin plug to the side of the mounting box and have tried to plug in the fridge power cord and connected the plug internally to the compressor terminals of the unit, but it doesn't seem to operate the compressor. The settings have been adjusted to the desired fermentation temps. What adjustments do I need to make?
 

peas_and_corn

I'm sorry Dave, I'm afraid I cannot mash that
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OK, can I have something a little more precise than what was given? I'd prefer to not get another piece of electronic equipment; this one will work fine it's a matter of connecting it properly. Yeah it's a bit complicated, but I wanted something that could be versatile for future unforseen needs
 

peas_and_corn

I'm sorry Dave, I'm afraid I cannot mash that
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Anyway, it's been put in a box...

100_0219__Medium_.JPG

100_0220__Medium_.JPG

Anyway, any tips on how to programme the boody thing??
 

timmy

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I work with PID devices a fair bit (Liebert mainly) but will have a look for you and give you a bit of a guide.
 

JasonY

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poiter said:
I heard the Dixell temp controller mentioned. I have an XR10C and want to use it as a plug and play unit so it can be swapped from fridge to fridge. I have it connected to 240v supply and have put the probe in the fridge. The digital read out works. I attached a 3 pin plug to the side of the mounting box and have tried to plug in the fridge power cord and connected the plug internally to the compressor terminals of the unit, but it doesn't seem to operate the compressor. The settings have been adjusted to the desired fermentation temps. What adjustments do I need to make?
[post="90996"][/post]​

Discalimer: The advice below assumes you know what you are doing, if you fry your self it is your fault. Pay a sparky if in doubt.

For the plug that goes out (the one you plug the fridge into) you need to connect the neutral to the mains neutral of the controller (just stick them both in the terminal of the controller. You then need to put a link (short length of insulated wire) from the active that is connected to the mains terminal of the controller to one of the compressor terminals, connect your plug active into the other. MAKE SURE YOU CONNECT THE MAINS EARTH TO YOUR PLUG EARTH (just use one of those insulated blu point terminal you get from bunnigs or somewhere), that should give you a chance of not frying yourself if your fridge gets a short.

Hope that helps.
 

jgriffin

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I did the following drawing to send someone else for how to wire up the XR10C . My drawing skills suck, but note that terminal 4 is the "hot" side of the relay.

Doesn't matter which way you hook 7 & 8.

The three circles represent the terminal block that i used - you could potentially join the wires in the XR10C for the active and Neutral, and use a single terminal for the earth, but i have a few block terminals laying around, so i used them.

xr10c_wiring.JPG
 

barls

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hey jgriffin will that work for the dixell thermostats that some of us bought in that last bulk buy organized by dream boat
 

jgriffin

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I've amended my post to stop any confusion. It's actually for the XR10C Dixell controller.
 

timmy

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barls said:
hey jgriffin will that work for the dixell thermostats that some of us bought in that last bulk buy organized by dream boat
[post="91973"][/post]​
barls,

drop us a line if you have any q's for you're dixell.
 

poiter

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Thanks guys. I'll connect that way and see what happens. The diagram helps a lot. With the warmer weather coming up it wil be great to have some reliable temp. control, especially for those summer pilsners! I will report in about the progress.

Cheers, poiter.
 

barls

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thanks for clearing that up jgriffin
yeah i might do that timmy if i run in to problems
 

JasonY

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Very happy with the XR10C my keg fridge is now under its control and is performing very well :) bit of wiring but it aint rocket science B)
 

kbekus

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I've noticed with the XR10C that the connection 6 is blank. I used a terminal block too to junction earth, but I wonder if 6 could be used for this purpose?
 
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