Stc1000

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givemeamash

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AllLong time reader, first time questioner. Have tried to find info on his but can't seem to. I have an stc 1000 (duel temp controller) and plan on using it for a freezer conversion. Can I wire it in for the cold only, or is there something that I need to do to the 'heat' points for it to work effectively in making my freezer become a keg fridge.... If there is a different wiring diagram to bypass the heat does anyone have one???ThanksLT
 
no just only wire up the cold side.
 
So just leave the heat plugs free! Thanks for that barls.
Yep, just don't put any wires in or out of the two heating connectors on the STC-1000. If the unit ever thinks it needs to heat it will close the circuit and nothing will happen.

You wiring diagram would end up like this (as long as your stc-1000 has heat on 7/8, not 5/6):
stc1000_wiring_diagram___cooling_only.jpg
 
Yep, just don't put any wires in or out of the two heating connectors on the STC-1000. If the unit ever thinks it needs to heat it will close the circuit and nothing will happen.

You wiring diagram would end up like this (as long as your stc-1000 has heat on 7/8, not 5/6):
View attachment 59256

Perfect, thanks for the diagram.
 
If the unit ever thinks it needs to heat it will close the circuit and nothing will happen.

Mine goes "CLICK!" and closes the heating relay, and the "heat" LED comes on. But nothing happens because I don't live in a cold place.
 
Mine goes "CLICK!" and closes the heating relay, and the "heat" LED comes on. But nothing happens because I don't live in a cold place.

On that note, does the heating function ever come on due to too much cooling?

I have ordered a couple of STC 1000s on ebay and I was going to wire in my heating pad for when winter comes round.
 
On that note, does the heating function ever come on due to too much cooling?

I have ordered a couple of STC 1000s on ebay and I was going to wire in my heating pad for when winter comes round.

sometimes my fridge gets a bit cold and overshoots and turns on the heat side of the STC

i just unplug the heating side or dont bother putting my light bulb in a pot heater in the fridge (unless in the dead of the BNE winter.....)

personally i don't want one fitting the other (cold v heat)
 
On that note, does the heating function ever come on due to too much cooling?
It will depend on the "Difference set value" (F2) that you program in to the stc-1000. I have mine set to 0.5 degrees, so for example if i'm fermenting at 18, the cooling only kicks in at 18.5, and turns off at 18. Only if it then drops to 17.5 would it turn the heat side on.
 
It will depend on the "Difference set value" (F2) that you program in to the stc-1000. I have mine set to 0.5 degrees, so for example if i'm fermenting at 18, the cooling only kicks in at 18.5, and turns off at 18. Only if it then drops to 17.5 would it turn the heat side on.

Mine overcools by a bit more than my setting (also 0.5C) so it goes click. If I ran a heat source in there I'd change the settings.
 
Mine overcools by a bit more than my setting (also 0.5C) so it goes click. If I ran a heat source in there I'd change the settings.
Would be nice to be able to pull out stats on how often each side goes click. Someone smart needs to invent an stc-1000 with a usb interface...
 
I live on the Mid-North coast of NSW and I had a beer slow (not quite stall but.....) this winter. It was set at 18degC, fermenting with US05 and it got down around 15degC. Obviously the yeast works at that temp but to me the issue was temp stability. Got some diacetyl that may have been yeast stres related. Will purchase a small heat mat for the 2013 winter as insurance.
 
I can't beleive I'm saying this but are you sure you searched?? I don't care but surely the search feature isn't that farked.

Anyways set your temp range to 0.5 and set the delay to 3 minutes (that's how long it will take to switch your fridge on once it reaches your set temp diff) I can't recall which setting-F code it is but have a look at your instructions.

You will be surprised how much your fridge doesn't switch on with a heat pad in there as well. You wont need it this time of year of course
 
I've got one set up for both. The mounting box has two outlets, one heat, one cool. Sometimes I use both, usually springtime and autumn when you get warm days and cold nights by using a heat pad inside the fridge.

To avoid the fridge and heatpad fighting each other, I set the differential at 2C and the compressor delay timer at 10 minutes. 2 degrees works perfect and I make lagers which 'generally' need tighter temperature control than ales and I get no flavour problems associated with temperature controlled fermentation.

I do have my probe dangling in the fridge, not in the wort or taped to the fermenters so although the air temperature varies by +2c to -2c from the set temperature, the wort does not due to the thermal mass. The larger than normal differential is to stop the fridge and heatpad constantly cutting in and out and stuffing them up. If that makes sense.

-=Steve=-
 
Hey fellas,

Just picked up a fridge for nix this evening. Now looking for an STC-1000. I notice Brew Adelaide is out of stock. Any suggestions for best place to purchase....this one off evil bay would seem quickest delivery time, though a few bucks more than HK or China.
STC-1000 on Ebay

Cheers,
Oakers.
 
Hey fellas,

Just picked up a fridge for nix this evening. Now looking for an STC-1000. I notice Brew Adelaide is out of stock. Any suggestions for best place to purchase....this one off evil bay would seem quickest delivery time, though a few bucks more than HK or China.
STC-1000 on Ebay

Cheers,
Oakers.


just ask them they actually have them in stock and are not dropshipping from HK etc
 
I ordered mine two weeks ago from HK. They arrived within 5 days. From itechcool. Just under $20 each.
 
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