Stc 1000 Temp Controller

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stux

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You can use a cable tie instead of the electrical tape on the inside of the box to prevent pull-through

Just do it up real tight
 

iralosavic

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You can use a cable tie instead of the electrical tape on the inside of the box to prevent pull-through

Just do it up real tight
Yep that'd work fine too. I just have 5 rolls of electrical tape and hardly ever use the stuff. Most people would probably stencil the controller footprint with a pencil/marker, not tape too. Now you know why I did that too :p
 

Amber Fluid

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Here is my 3rd unit. I was wanting one that I could remove all cords from to make it easier to move the keezer.

I have used an IEC power connection for the power. A recessed speaker connection for the probe and included a 240v power supply that switches on/off via a rocker switch that I use for a fan (or anything else).







 

pk.sax

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Have a look at this BrewAdelaide post Re: STC-1000 or this?

T.
Interesting thread. Not one person that admits to having used one, or to be a sparky and analyse it. Heaps of scare mongering, the actual comparison is barely a few posts long. Love Internet scientists.

Btw, they're both made in China, with whatever their quality Certs are worth. I've pulled mine apart when I first got it and proved that a lot of components in there are actually rated higher than the advertised range of use. I'm no sparky, but understand margin of safety. I think I'm gonna need an STC1000 soon to work an HLT, but apart from that I'm happy running the fridge and freezer on these. It's quite a bonus with my chest freezer as I'd have had to put an STC1000 on the floor and it'd get kicked around inadvertently, this thing is small and hides away.
 

MaltyHops

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Interesting thread. Not one person that admits to having used one, or to be a sparky and analyse it.
:D Not that I'm admitting anything ... there are at least 2.1 sparkies there.

Didn't have time to before but the link I posted relates to making a little foam ramp
to surround fridge controller cables and provide a smooth profile for the fridge seal to
go over to prevent leaks.

 

spog

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nice,n, neet good work that ...cheers.spog.......
Here is my 3rd unit. I was wanting one that I could remove all cords from to make it easier to move the keezer.

I have used an IEC power connection for the power. A recessed speaker connection for the probe and included a 240v power supply that switches on/off via a rocker switch that I use for a fan (or anything else).







 

stux

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:D Not that I'm admitting anything ... there are at least 2.1 sparkies there.

Didn't have time to before but the link I posted relates to making a little foam ramp
to surround fridge controller cables and provide a smooth profile for the fridge seal to
go over to prevent leaks.

Was just planning something like this today!
 

Newbee(r)

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...build done. Had sparky come out to certify it today. Had a few difficulties as the standard testing equipment doesn't have a temp control circuit option, and the controller controlling the power outs meant getting creative with the process but given the green light. A belkien urge protect power board or equivalent was recommended for insurance purposes given it was a home build. Cheers to Stux for the parts list, it worked a treat mate.

J

IMG_0164.jpg
 

alfadog

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probably best not to tie knots in the cables into the housing, if you can get a few cable glands 16mm best, but 20mm will do the trick.

IMG_0465.jpg
 

Newbee(r)

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probably best not to tie knots in the cables into the housing, if you can get a few cable glands 16mm best, but 20mm will do the trick.

Agree, No knots in the wiring for my set up, (all the power in and out is in the back of the unit) and cable glands used for both the power and the thermometer. Extra locked inside with cable ties to ensure no pull through even if the unit was pulled by the power cord off the fridge.
 

Mattzilla

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This thread is freakin awesome!

I'ma complete newby when it comes to electrics but even i understand how it all works now.

saying that i will be getting a qaulified sparky to set it up for me.

Thanks very nmuch to everyone for adding your diagrams and instructions

Matt
 

ryanclark111

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STC wired directly to compressor?

I thought I would throw the question in here first.

Its a bit of a refrigeration type question more than electrical. I have a Euro-grand style kegerator which I want to use as both a kegerator and fermentation fridge. I am about to wire in the STC-1000 controller for fermentation but do not want to have it switching the overall power to the fridge on and off as it has a temp display on the front which I want to continuously run and it beeps when it is turned on (annoying in the small apartment I live in). My plan would be to use the STC controller to just switch power to the compressor however my knowledge of refrigeration is non existent. So my question is whether this is the only part of the fridge which controls the cooling or are there other parts that need to be switched on and off with it? I will also be putting in a bypass so I can switch off the controller when being used as a kegerator.

and before anyone says it, I have searched through the volumes of info on the STC wiring threads. The info might be in there somewhere but I haven't found it.
 

Muscovy_333

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I'd remove the beeper instead.
You can use your STC temp thermostat settings for kegerator, fermenter or whatever...you could even hatch a chicken if you want!

I can't answer your fridge question, but by using the STC thermostat you have complete temp control to the degree (+/- a bees dick)
 

ryanclark111

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I'd remove the beeper instead.
You can use your STC temp thermostat settings for kegerator, fermenter or whatever...you could even hatch a chicken if you want!

I can't answer your fridge question, but by using the STC thermostat you have complete temp control to the degree (+/- a bees dick)
I did think about taking out the beeper. I think it might be more work though.
 

Muscovy_333

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I did think about taking out the beeper. I think it might be more work though.

Can you just pull the power to the external display?
Your STC will provide you with a digital display anyway......without the beep.
 

ryanclark111

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Can you just pull the power to the external display?
Your STC will provide you with a digital display anyway......without the beep.
I have had a bit of a look, I would have to take apart a fair amount of the fridge to disconnect the display. I would rather just wire in the STC to the compressor if possible. But it will be my back up option.
 

adz1179

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apologies if i have missed this in the last 20 odd pages, but i had a problem today and was curious if anyone has also had this issue....

brewing a dunkel at the moment, into the fermenting fridge this morning, all good, out we go for the day. when i got home i realised we must have had a blackout at some point in the day (clocks flashing etc). happened to check the fridge by chance, lights are on, but no motor and STC1000 is out...

held the power button on for about 3 seconds, and away she went as normal, but the temp got up to 25 deg (fermenting at 19). working perfect now, but seems it didn't start back up when the power came back on..... is this a known issue?
 

alfadog

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I have had a bit of a look, I would have to take apart a fair amount of the fridge to disconnect the display. I would rather just wire in the STC to the compressor if possible. But it will be my back up option.
It is probably just as much work to hard wire as it is to remove the beeper. Either way you will have to pull the unit apart. IMO I would just remove the beeper, that way you will have two displays of the temp, just for peace of mind
 

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