Stc 1000 12v Did I Get The Wrong One?

[Icewind]

i recently bought two of these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DC-12V-Digital-...=item3ccb581bd3 to fit in a couple of fridges for fermenting. Should I have bought the 220v ones? I might be wrong here, not overly electrically minded, but I thought the fridge still uses its power and the controller controls that via relay switches?

Also, I have a larger fridge i'm going to use as one of my fermenter fridges. 430l upside down westinghouse fridge/freezer. Can I set the freezer part to be controlled by the stc1000 as well as the top part?

 

[Markbeer]

The STC-1000 works as an intermediary, cutting the fridge in and out to achieve the desired temperature.

IE the fridge is either turned on or off as if it were plugged directly into the 240v outlet.

So your large fridge will merely just be controlled as a whole. If you put the probe in the fridge part attached to your fermenter it will work to keep your fermenter at the required temp. They both run off the same motor etc.

The freezer may be a completely different temp as air is transferred to the fridge to cool the fridge to the temp set on the controller. The fridge and freezer are linked and apart from fiddling the dials on the fridge you can't control only one and not the other or both separately as the unit is on as a whole or it isn't.

I think you need the 220V version.

i recently bought two of these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DC-12V-Digital-...=item3ccb581bd3 to fit in a couple of fridges for fermenting. Should I have bought the 220v ones? I might be wrong here, not overly electrically minded, but I thought the fridge still uses its power and the controller controls that via relay switches?

Also, I have a larger fridge i'm going to use as one of my fermenter fridges. 430l upside down westinghouse fridge/freezer. Can I set the freezer part to be controlled by the stc1000 as well as the top part?

 

[goid]

i recently bought two of these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DC-12V-Digital-...=item3ccb581bd3 to fit in a couple of fridges for fermenting. Should I have bought the 220v ones? I might be wrong here, not overly electrically minded, but I thought the fridge still uses its power and the controller controls that via relay switches?

Also, I have a larger fridge i'm going to use as one of my fermenter fridges. 430l upside down westinghouse fridge/freezer. Can I set the freezer part to be controlled by the stc1000 as well as the top part?

Icewind,

You can use the one you bought (12v), you will just need to find a 12v power supply to run it (old PC supply). 220v version is more convenient to wire up due to being able to use the 220v AC for switching the fridge for powering STC.

You can only control the fridge/freezer as a whole, via one compartment's temp.
While the other runs to what ever temp it gets to while fridge/freezer is running.

Goid

 

[QldKev]

As Markbeer said most fridge/freezers are linked to a common evaporator and the air is just ducted between the chambers. In this case there isn't a lot you can do without modifying the airflow somehow. Some better fridge/freezers have 2 separate evaporators. Same thing you would need to find out how they work and modify it to allow the fridge to go up to 18c etc. I know our kitchen one dies have separate evaporators, but the display wont allow you to set it anywhere near as warm.

The stc-1000 wiring normally talked about on ahb is just an inline device that throws the entire power from the fridge once the set temp is achieved, same as if you manually flicked the switch at the wall once the fridge was cold enough, then manually switched it back on once it got above the set point.

You should be able to used the stc-1000 version you have, but you will need to use a 12vdc power supply.

Get your electrician to verify this, and then wire it up for you. Obviously you'll also need the temp probe hooked into it's respective slots.

 

[Rob S]

I'd spend another $4 or so and get a DC AC Solid State Relay to run this. Separates the 12v from the 240v. IMHO it'd be a safer option to run your fridge this way.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SSR-25-DA-Solid...#ht_2086wt_1397

It might require a little more wiring, but if you get a bigger jiffy box or tupperware conainer you could neatly put it all inside.

 

[glenwal]

I'd spend another $4 or so and get a DC AC Solid State Relay to run this. Separates the 12v from the 240v. IMHO it'd be a safer option to run your fridge this way.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SSR-25-DA-Solid...#ht_2086wt_1397

It might require a little more wiring, but if you get a bigger jiffy box or tupperware conainer you could neatly put it all inside.

How exactly is it safer? If you just use the STC directly, the 12V and 240V are seperated by a relay anyway. All your adding is another place where he can f up the wiring job.

And then you talk about using a tupperware container as a box? If you're going to talk saftey, then do NOT mount it in a tupperware box. It should be mounted in a 240V rated housing that screws closed (or an earthed metal container, again that screwes closed.)

 

[squirt in the turns]

Icewind, whatever you do, don't go and buy a power supply. The STC itself draws so little current ( less than 250mA) that just about any 12V supply will do and you could probably power both units from one supply (wire them in parallel). Even an old phone charger will likely have enough grunt. Search around your house and if you come up short, hit up local AHB members (update your profile with your location).

If you use a computer PSU, remember that the yellow wire is +12, any black wire is ground. If using a power brick type DC supply, check the label to determine the polarity or get a multimeter.

 

[squirt in the turns]

How exactly is it safer? If you just use the STC directly, the 12V and 240V are seperated by a relay anyway. All your adding is another place where he can f up the wiring job.

And then you talk about using a tupperware container as a box? If you're going to talk saftey, then do NOT mount it in a tupperware box. It should be mounted in a 240V rated housing that screws closed (or an earthed metal container, again that screwes closed.)

You beat me to it, Glen. I have no idea why Rob S has suggested this...? He's suggesting running 12v through the STC's relay contacts, then hanging the SSR off that? Or bypassing/replacing the internal relay of the STC with the SSR, which isn't that hard - I've just had to replace a relay that failed in one of mine. Didn't use an SSR, though. You only need them in situations where a lot of rapid switching is taking place.

Your point about the safety of the enclosure is well made. I've mounted a couple of mine in gutted computer PSU enclosures and have ensured the case is earthed.

 

[Nick JD]

These threads are why people fear wiring the STC1000. To many "electricians" telling each other they're doing it wrong.

QldKev's post is the one to read.

 

[Icewind]

These threads are why people fear wiring the STC1000. To many "electricians" telling each other they're doing it wrong.

QldKev's post is the one to read.

thanks guys! I have a friend who is an electrician but won't be available till the weekend. I was really hoping to be able to set a brew down sooner. (Live in Toowoomba. Currently in a bit of a heatwave. 1 week ago it was snowing only a couple hours drive away. Need some temp regulation!)

I have plenty of 12v adapters. I'm leaning more towards a computer psu, as I have one spare, and the decent ones tend to sacrifice themselves before getting to the load.

So this means I will need to house the stc inside a 240v rated box or not?

QLDKev

"As Markbeer said most fridge/freezers are linked to a common evaporator and the air is just ducted between the chambers. In this case there isn't a lot you can do without modifying the airflow somehow. Some better fridge/freezers have 2 separate evaporators. Same thing you would need to find out how they work and modify it to allow the fridge to go up to 18c etc"

Yeh, what I'll be interested to see is it possible to set the base temperature of the freezer part to just above freezing (2 or so degrees) while having the fridge controlled by the stc. Or would that be too inefficient/impossible?

 

[Nick JD]

So this means I will need to house the stc inside a 240v rated box or not?

There will be 240V going in, and out of the box.

 

[Icewind]

There will be 240V going in, and out of the box.

As in through the contact relays?

 

[QldKev]

thanks guys! I have a friend who is an electrician but won't be available till the weekend. I was really hoping to be able to set a brew down sooner. (Live in Toowoomba. Currently in a bit of a heatwave. 1 week ago it was snowing only a couple hours drive away. Need some temp regulation!)

I have plenty of 12v adapters. I'm leaning more towards a computer psu, as I have one spare, and the decent ones tend to sacrifice themselves before getting to the load.

So this means I will need to house the stc inside a 240v rated box or not?

QLDKev

"As Markbeer said most fridge/freezers are linked to a common evaporator and the air is just ducted between the chambers. In this case there isn't a lot you can do without modifying the airflow somehow. Some better fridge/freezers have 2 separate evaporators. Same thing you would need to find out how they work and modify it to allow the fridge to go up to 18c etc"

Yeh, what I'll be interested to see is it possible to set the base temperature of the freezer part to just above freezing (2 or so degrees) while having the fridge controlled by the stc. Or would that be too inefficient/impossible?

It can be done, but is well beyond what I can offer for assistance over the net. It will depend on a few things.
eg. With my digital fridge with separate evaporators and thermostats it may just be a tweak to the thermostat software, or a replacement of the thermostats including an update to the software.
I think your sparky mate should be able to work it out.

With the question So this means I will need to house the stc inside a 240v rated box or not? I recommend waiting for your electrician mate. A spoiled beer is better than death.
But to answer it YES you must use a decent enclosure.




QldKev

 

[Nick JD]

As in through the contact relays?

The relays are switching 240V.

 

[Icewind]

But to answer it YES you must use a decent enclosure.


I see. Any examples of what you guys have used and where you have procured them from?

 

[QldKev]

But to answer it YES you must use a decent enclosure.


I see. Any examples of what you guys have used and where you have procured them from?

http://search.jaycar.com.au/search?w=jiffy...x&view=list

 

[Icewind]

cheers thanks. theres a jaycar reseller in town i'll go have a look.

 

[QldKev]

cheers thanks. theres a jaycar reseller in town i'll go have a look.

and don't forget to pickup

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=HM3196

and

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=HP0732

but your sparky mate should may them onhand.

QldKev

 

[Rob S]

How exactly is it safer? If you just use the STC directly, the 12V and 240V are seperated by a relay anyway. All your adding is another place where he can f up the wiring job.

And then you talk about using a tupperware container as a box? If you're going to talk saftey, then do NOT mount it in a tupperware box. It should be mounted in a 240V rated housing that screws closed (or an earthed metal container, again that screwes closed.)

You beat me to it, Glen. I have no idea why Rob S has suggested this...? He's suggesting running 12v through the STC's relay contacts, then hanging the SSR off that? Or bypassing/replacing the internal relay of the STC with the SSR, which isn't that hard - I've just had to replace a relay that failed in one of mine. Didn't use an SSR, though. You only need them in situations where a lot of rapid switching is taking place.

Your point about the safety of the enclosure is well made. I've mounted a couple of mine in gutted computer PSU enclosures and have ensured the case is earthed.

My bad I thought it was 12v in and out. Should have read it better.

As for the tupperware - each to their own. I don't see the difference between this and a jiffy box which is recommended in more than one thread, apart from the screw down factor.

FWIW Qld Kev's info is spot on as you say.

 

[booargy]

As for the tupperware - each to their own. I don't see the difference between this and a jiffy box which is recommended in more than one thread, apart from the screw down factor.

Somewhere in AS3008 it says that covers shall be only removed with the use of tools.
Get a proper box food containers look ****.

 

[dmac80]

My bad I thought it was 12v in and out. Should have read it better.

As for the tupperware - each to their own. I don't see the difference between this and a jiffy box which is recommended in more than one thread, apart from the screw down factor.

FWIW Qld Kev's info is spot on as you say.

Hi Rob,
Not looking to have a go, but tupperware is made to be opened without tools and electrical project boxes are made to be opened WITH the use of tools. Electrical conductors should not be accessible without the use of tools, as otherwise kids or less knowledgeable adults could open electrical equipment and electrocute themselves. Having to use tools for access requires dexterity and intent.
It's a safety thing.
Cheers
Dan

 

[Rob S]

Somewhere in AS3008 it says that covers shall be only removed with the use of tools.
Get a proper box food containers look ****.

I'm sure it also says somewhere that this thing should he dine by a qualified electrician, tested, tagged etc. As for what it looks like lol good on ya.

Hi Rob,
Not looking to have a go, but tupperware is made to be opened without tools and electrical project boxes are made to be opened WITH the use of tools. Electrical conductors should not be accessible without the use of tools, as otherwise kids or less knowledgeable adults could open electrical equipment and electrocute themselves. Having to use tools for access requires dexterity and intent.
It's a safety thing.
Cheers
Dan

Nah man all good. I understand. My brewery is under lock & key so I'm only killing myself.

 

[Nick JD]

Hi Rob,
Not looking to have a go, but tupperware is made to be opened without tools and electrical project boxes are made to be opened WITH the use of tools. Electrical conductors should not be accessible without the use of tools, as otherwise kids or less knowledgeable adults could open electrical equipment and electrocute themselves. Having to use tools for access requires dexterity and intent.
It's a safety thing.
Cheers
Dan

I had the same thing happen last week with a hunting bow I have sitting in the spare room. A friend was, "Dude, shouldn't that thing be locked away!?" and I said, "You have to be an adult to draw the bloody thing - it's harmless to kids."

 

[emnpaul]

I have a hunting bow sitting in the spare room. "

The beer hunter, Nick JD.

 

[petesbrew]

These threads are why people fear wiring the STC1000. To many "electricians" telling each other they're doing it wrong.

QldKev's post is the one to read.

Very good point, Nick.
OP bought the wrong thing in the first place and (no offence, Icewind, if you don't know, you don't know), and people are telling him how to modify it?
Any chance you can send back for a 240v model? Simpler, easier.

 

[bignath]

Very good point, Nick.
OP bought the wrong thing in the first place and (no offence, Icewind, if you don't know, you don't know), and people are telling him how to modify it?
Any chance you can send back for a 240v model? Simpler, easier.

That's what id try and do.

 

[petesbrew]

Just noticed another thing on the original ebay link.
the pic showing the wiring diagram on the stc1000 shows the power supply as 12VAC, not DC.
You better confirm this with the seller before you go buying a power supply if you're going down this path.

Just let your sparky mate do all the hard work and pay him with beer.

 

[Icewind]

Just noticed another thing on the original ebay link.
the pic showing the wiring diagram on the stc1000 shows the power supply as 12VAC, not DC.
You better confirm this with the seller before you go buying a power supply if you're going down this path.

Just let your sparky mate do all the hard work and pay him with beer.

Yeh no, its 12vdc in the technical specs.

I'll be cheeky, anyone here want some 12v stc1000s (or do a swap with 220v)?
If not, i think I may send one back (Hong Kong Ebay), and purchase a second one. I really want to get something going this weekend. I have a spare 12vdc adapter, so i'll get one 12v done and when I receive the two in a few weeks or a month i'll just replace the 12v with the 220 (with the appropriate modifications done of course )


Yeh, I realised as soon as I received the notification that the "12v stc1000 has now been marked as sent" lol that 12v was likely not the right one to get.

 

[labels]

The 12v models would be good for car fridges where the original controller **** itself. I can just imagine the cost of a Waeco replacemant controller compared to a STC1000.

Steve

 

[labels]

An STC1000 240v doing it's job.
Mounted in a Jarcar mounting box and using Jaycar outlets. Inside using two terminal blocks, one for the earths and one for active an neutral.