Solution For Pump Priming Problems

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
you don't have voile in the mash tun do you?

I found it lets some liquid through and then totally clogs up.
 
those lines + the hermit may be a bit long (inlet certainly seems to be quite long), just a thought but the length of the hose may be affecting the pump, only 3m head on these things so short lines are an advantage.

dunno man, systems need to be fiddled with to get right.

I occasionally have some air to begin with and need to jiggle it a bit but once flow is through I dont really have many issues... generally

Yob
 
Your inlet to the pump does a big loop there, just before the pump it turns down, I suspect you might get a bubble there. To solve these problems you have to get rid of as many turns and joints as possible, make the flow of wort more direct.
 
^ This was my problem (with a March Pump), loopy lines.

I straightened up my lines, rechecked no air leaks before the pump, and all was well. It made a big immediate differene, as even when I did prime OK, there was still a bit of air in the line that restricted the flow.

FWIW I did also add a T-piece and Ball valve at the Pump outlet (to make a bleed valve) and have found this really useful so I can just run off the first bit of wort with bits of grain, before switching over on the fly to begin recirculation. It also helps when I drain MLT to have another route to avoid loopy lines.
But better to fix the underlying problem than just install a bleed valve.
 
The effect of restrictions to flow on the inlet side is much worse than the outlet side. These pumps are designed to push liquid, not pull it.
 
When trying to prime I hold up the inlet hose at the loop so its all higher than the pump and there is direct downard flow to the pump. Once I do finally get it primed and the air out it flows great no problems.
Jacksons idea of squeezing the lines like a priming bulb might be the go, I never thought of that.

I will also try to shorten up my lines as much as possible.

My third option is to mount the pump directly to the framework on the right hand side next to the hex as low as possible with the inelt facing up, but then my HLT might not be high enough to flow into the pump properly.

Thanks for the tips and advice will have a play and see how I go.
 
Some things i've done with success that could work for you...

1. Prime the pump backwards through your return hose, and lift the end of the hose as high as you can go. Pour water in slowly until air stops bubbling back up through your MT (use a funnel)

2. When beginning to run the pump, maneuver it so the outlet is the highest point - this will enable any trapped air to escape. Once it it flowing solid you can set it in whichever direction you like

3. Position the pump below everything else
 
Some things i've done with success that could work for you...

1. Prime the pump backwards through your return hose, and lift the end of the hose as high as you can go. Pour water in slowly until air stops bubbling back up through your MT (use a funnel)

2. When beginning to run the pump, maneuver it so the outlet is the highest point - this will enable any trapped air to escape. Once it it flowing solid you can set it in whichever direction you like

3. Position the pump below everything else


Some good ideas will give them a try, thanks mate.
 
mxd has it - simply fill your mash tun via the pump, backwards. (kymba too)

Dissconnect pump outlet hose from MT in-port.
Connect to HLT
Fill HLT with desired amount of strike water (or underlet if thats your thing)
Dissconnect pump outlet from HLT and plug back into MT
Mash in - pump already primed.

If you want to "make sure" your pump is properly primed, just flick it on during your mash tun fill, all that will happen is you'll pump a little water back into your HLT, then turn it off an let things flow into the MT again. Couple of goes backfilling, turning pump on etc will get rid of even really quite stubborn airlocks. But unless your pipework arrangement is truly awful, just filling via the pump will do the trick.

Sorted
 

Latest posts

Back
Top