manticle
Standing up for the Aussie Bottler
Cheers mate.
Slotted Manifold Or Braided Hose ?
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Look at you go Manticle, I would go with elbows screwed into each end of your T then compression nuts and olives. use copper connections for the rest, see if uou can get someone to solder it all up for you. When you cut your slits on the underside, you really don't need them too close, some people go way over the top with the number of cuts.
The through the wall fitting sounds ok, I just run one length of tape right along and screw the nuts from each end over the tape, cos I'm lazy
The through the wall fitting sounds ok, I just run one length of tape right along and screw the nuts from each end over the tape, cos I'm lazy
Gavo
Dogwood Brews
Manticle if you don't have access to an oxy and silver solder you could just punch some dimples into the tee's and elbows enough so they won't come apart. They don't have to seal at all, just stay together. Silver soldering does make a stronger manifod. I have mine only partly soldered together so it can be dismantled for cleaning. Pic here. If you do solder make sure you use silver solder and not leaded solder. The copper will cause no problem with your beer.
You need to use the thread tape by wrapping it around the thread where the nuts will contact so there will be tape between the all thread and the nuts.
Cocko is right about the price of a falsie, but I am more than happy with my manifold getting a reliable 80%+ efficiency in the fermenter, even when I set the grain bed really crappy all mounded up on one side and shallow on the other. <_<
Cheers
Gavo.
You need to use the thread tape by wrapping it around the thread where the nuts will contact so there will be tape between the all thread and the nuts.
Cocko is right about the price of a falsie, but I am more than happy with my manifold getting a reliable 80%+ efficiency in the fermenter, even when I set the grain bed really crappy all mounded up on one side and shallow on the other. <_<
Cheers
Gavo.
chappo1970
Piss off or Buy Me A Beer
Manticle PM me mate I'll send you my redundant (bit like me really) manifold!
Cheers
Chappo
Cheers
Chappo
Cocko
Oh Dear..
Gavo, you got me home so again many thanks.... :icon_cheers:
IF you are fitting out a 55L easky than the BB falsie will do you fine, for me I was Fitting out a 100L tun and needed more than the BB falsie could serve.... admittedly, I read the 'bible' JP's - Too much to detail!......
BUT first brew pulled, 78 % efficiency.. as per Brewalchemy... So who really knows! Maybe PP and TB can argue about it!!
Seriously though, COPPER MANIFOLDS RULE!! So cheap, easy and effective.. who would have thunk JP knew what he was talking about...
B)
clean brewer
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Go the BB Falsie(sorry all), efficiency has shot through the roof with this bit of kit and well worth the $$$$, stuff screwing around with a manifold... h34r: (never had one)...
Been getting great efficiency with the Falsie and prob. other brewing practices, last brew got me 90-94%....
Do what serves you well.....
:icon_cheers: CB
h34r: (never had one)...Been getting great efficiency with the Falsie and prob. other brewing practices, last brew got me 90-94%....
Do what serves you well.....
:icon_cheers: CB
Cocko
Oh Dear..
Go the BB Falsie(sorry all), efficiency has shot through the roof with this bit of kit and well worth the $$$$, stuff screwing around with a manifold...
Been getting great efficiency with the Falsie and prob. other brewing practices, last brew got me 90-94%....
Do what serves you well.....
:icon_cheers: CB
Agree it is a great bit of kit CB.... BUT in the bottom of a 100L tun it is not, that is why I went the Mani...
In a 55L square it is the ultimate me thinks but any else should be considered on case by case...
14c
clean brewer
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Fully agree mate, I reckon Dom should make a bigger Falsie for bigger Mash-tuns, maybe with more than 1 pick-up tube??? Alot of potential I reckon with the Falsie...
Mitternacht Brauer
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My 2cents worth, Just boiling up a belgium ale that was mashed in a 44L esky lined with Swiss voile sitting on top of cake rake with 3 bits of conduit and a small length of copper as a pickup to the center of the esky . Works a treat for me . I would take a pic but the grain is still in situ till the morning.
Buster
Buster
Cocko
Oh Dear..
Batz
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yardy
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Forgot to include the photo of the bits of pipe I hope to make the manifold from which might make the question make more sense. Remnants of my 3 m coil or do I need to start again?
gday manticle,
have a look here at a simple and easy manifold build, MANIFOLD
imo there is no need to permanently fix the joints, the tun & mani in the above link are still going strong after countless kg and has been passed onto a BIABer who has seen the light.
( Used it yet QldKev ?
)cheers
Yard
Don't think so !!
Cocko
Oh Dear..
Noone else has mentioned this yet, so I guess you'll be fine, but I was in Bunnings yesterday looking at some taps very similar to the one you're using, and when looking inside it seemed to have a very restricted flow-path, so I was worried that it might get clogged with grain when you recycle your first runnings. I guess if you make sure that most of the crud is filtered by the braid or manifold then you should be right, but if it was not already too late, I'd have suggested a ball-style-tap instead.I'm currently making a mash tun from a recently purchased 26 L esky. I've drilled out the front of the esky, fitted a threaded pipe and tap and sealed the threads with thread tape.
So far, so good - easy and fun.
As for the manifold, IMHO it depends on what sparge method you plan to use, if you're going to batch sparge anything is much the same, just get the liquid out as quickly as possible, but for continuous-sparging you'll want to follow the principles and designs show on HowToBrew.
manticle
Standing up for the Aussie Bottler
Likely to be batch sparging at this point. I looked at the ball style but I was on a limited budget and the ball style seemed to need a few extra attachments. I may have cocked that up in my mind. I guess at some point they can be easily changed over as the tap is not permanent.
Hopefully the manifold does the job though.
That image was taken as a test shot - there is actually a nut fitted over the thread which is hard up against the wall of the esky (fitted with thread tape). I hang pictures for a living (and am studying how to conserve art and artefacts made from paper) so my hardware skills in relation to things like plumbing are minimal. I'm never shy of having a crack but I'd be the last guy to suggest I know what I'm doing.
@Yardy: great link, thankyou. I think I'll be buying more copper pipe and starting again as mine is a bit rough. It's been good practice though (mainly in what not to do). For anyone thinking of trying this - the first part was dead simple. If (unlike me) you did a bit more research before jumping into it and got all the bits, the second part should be easy too. Frustration and mistakes are all part of the game.
@ Batz & screwtop - my understanding of single infusion is between 66 and 70 (recommended in Palmer). What is a better temp and why? I'm aware that different temps will alter body and sweetness but isn't that dependent on the beer you're trying to make?
Hopefully the manifold does the job though.
That image was taken as a test shot - there is actually a nut fitted over the thread which is hard up against the wall of the esky (fitted with thread tape). I hang pictures for a living (and am studying how to conserve art and artefacts made from paper) so my hardware skills in relation to things like plumbing are minimal. I'm never shy of having a crack but I'd be the last guy to suggest I know what I'm doing.
@Yardy: great link, thankyou. I think I'll be buying more copper pipe and starting again as mine is a bit rough. It's been good practice though (mainly in what not to do). For anyone thinking of trying this - the first part was dead simple. If (unlike me) you did a bit more research before jumping into it and got all the bits, the second part should be easy too. Frustration and mistakes are all part of the game.
@ Batz & screwtop - my understanding of single infusion is between 66 and 70 (recommended in Palmer). What is a better temp and why? I'm aware that different temps will alter body and sweetness but isn't that dependent on the beer you're trying to make?
The King of Spain
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62-63C for my taste preference. 66 is pretty high, expecially with 100% grain...
We all have different tastes. 62-63c leaves me with a thin bodied beer i don't really care for, regardless of which malt i use. But i usually brew ales, so that probably helps. Though the lager i just pitched yesterday was a Dark german lager, with a mash temp of 70c, the highest i've done so far.
Different strokes for different folks. It's a bit biased to say "Another one mashing too hot". But that's just my opinion.
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