Slotted Manifold Or Braided Hose ?

[elec]

Evening all,
I'm in the final stages of cobbling together a 3 vessel set-up for a tilt at AG, am I'd appreciate some guidance on the MLT lautering part. I've got a 45l esky for the job, and was wondering which type of draining system was the most efficient and trouble free. I already have a roll of 5/8 copper in the shed for the slotted manifold, but am happy to purchase some of this braid if it's more effective. I've searched a bit, but can't find a comparison of the two. All suggestions appreciated.

Thanks in advance

 

[arogers]

my 2c, FWIW...

been using s/s braid for about a year (the whole time i've been AG'ing.)

never had a stuck sparge, not a problem at all. and efficiency thru the roof. consistently 75-80%.

$10 at mitre 10. cant go wrong - save the copper for a chiller or something

 

[sah]

Your roll of copper is annealed and not particularly suitable to make a slotted manifold because it is too malleable.

I suspect a slotted manifold may be better if you plan to fly sparge.

If you plan to batch sparge I don't think there is a significant technical difference between the two.

The braid is less fuss though. You don't have to set it up. You don't have to worry about accidentally causing it to fall apart when you are stirring the mash.

Whatever you do, try and work it so it is sitting on the bottom of your tun.

regards,
Scott

Ps. In a similar system to yours I use a manifold.

 

[Pumpy]

They will both do the job, I tried them , but I just love, the 'SS False bottom'

pumpy

 

[Gavo]

Your roll of copper is annealed and not particularly suitable to make a slotted manifold because it is too malleable.

I have two MLT's, a 15 litre and a 50 litre, (about to pension off the 15 lt). both of these are made out of 1/2 inc annealed copper roll. Malleability has caused no problems.

I get at least 75% efficiency with any brew in both tuns. This is a question that will get you many and varied answers. I went with the copper pipe because that's what was available to me. It works well. I suspect though that you will still need to buy elbows and tee's to join the pipes anyway. I reckon a copper manifold would be more reliable as it will not moove around in the bottom of the tun. It could be set up better in that you can easir acieve an even coverage of the bottom of the tun by laying the pipes out evenly.

Cheers
Gavo.

 

[jayse]

Theres no big difference between the two really, whatever will work fine. I agree with gavo's findings though as you could make a good manifold out of that type of copper with no problems, its not like its as floppy as trying to perform after a three day cocaine binge.

 

[sah]

Sorry for the advice on the annealed tube. I thought it might have been difficult to get nice straight consistent lengths from it.

regards,
Scott

 

[seemax]

I've tried copper manifold, plastic manifold and braid. Efficiency is similar for all when batch sparging. Braid is easy to setup and clean and never gets stucks, just make sure it's flat on the bottom and not floating in the mash. Also the cheapest and doesn't require any hard work (slotting, drilling, soldering, etc).

 

[chappo1970]

+1 Gavo

I have a copper slotted manifold and have been more than happy with it's preformance.

Very simple to make if your handy and have a few tools like a pipe cutter, hacksaw, hammer and a centre punch. I built mine out of 5/8 (19mm) copper tube about 1200mm long IIRC. You will need 4 x 90deg corners and 3 x T pieces.

Finished manifold

Begining the layout

Laying up the job

Showing the slots. It is placed upside down when in use

Good luck


Chappo

 

[Screwtop]

I've tried copper manifold, plastic manifold and braid. Efficiency is similar for all when batch sparging. Braid is easy to setup and clean and never gets stucks, just make sure it's flat on the bottom and not floating in the mash. Also the cheapest and doesn't require any hard work (slotting, drilling, soldering, etc).

Same here, all types, no diff, HOWEVER my first braid manifold suffered a bit from mash paddle abuse and caved in in places. What i finished up with was a round copper manifold covered in braid, best for strength and filtering ability in my opinion. Like pumpy I have been using a SSFB for a long while and find it best *for my system.

Disclaimer: * FOR MY SYSTEM: This would indicate that I have tried other devices in my particular mash tun and found this device suits both the application and current applied process.

 

[Screwtop]

Those slots seem a little on the large side there Chappo, hows the efficiency :lol:

 

[Gavo]

+1 Gavo

I have a copper slotted manifold and have been more than happy with it's preformance.

Very simple to make if your handy and have a few tools like a pipe cutter, hacksaw, hammer and a centre punch. I built mine out of 5/8 (19mm) copper tube about 1200mm long IIRC. You will need 4 x 90deg corners and 3 x T pieces.

Yeah... the hardest part is cutting all those ba$#@%d slots. I made mine so that the ends could come off for easy cleaning. Once you have built a copper manifold there is no maintenance required other than cleaning. The copper type is the only one I have used but I reckon the only way to beat it would be with a false bottom.

Nice manifold Chappo.

Cheers
Gavo

 

[chappo1970]

OP there are plenty ways to skinthis cat. Select the one that suits you budget and ability in the end. FWIW I would love a SS false bottom but originally couldn't come at the $. Now however I reclon they are worth every cent.

Those slots seem a little on the large side there Chappo, hows the efficiency :lol:

Pretty crappy thanks Screwy seemed to clag up all the time??

Yeah... the hardest part is cutting all those ba$#@%d slots. I made mine so that the ends could come off for easy cleaning. Once you have built a copper manifold there is no maintenance required other than cleaning. The copper type is the only one I have used but I reckon the only way to beat it would be with a false bottom.

Nice manifold Chappo.

Cheers
Gavo

+1 Gavo Slots are a mongrel!
Mine pulls down as well and is piss easy to clean. I have had 2 stuck sparges so far both due to high wheat % in the grist.

 

[MVZOOM]

I had nightmares with braid, so decided to 'do it right'. 2m of 3/4" copper, lots of T's and elbows, plus an angle grinder and I now have a manifold that I can run a 3/4" ball valve off at full tilt, draining my 65L tun and get around 78% efficiency.

Slots were made using the angle grinder - a dirty, noisy operation, but only took 10mins.

Go the manifold. It's stress free!

Cheers - Mike

 

[elec]

Thanks to all who replied. Food for thought, thats for sure.

Regards

 

[Swinging Beef]

I used copper.
It was free.
So was my mash tun cooler.
If I was forking out cash, I would prolly want a false bottom.

 

[Cortez The Killer]

Or this

 

[Gulpa]

I had nightmares with braid, so decided to 'do it right'. 2m of 3/4" copper, lots of T's and elbows, plus an angle grinder and I now have a manifold that I can run a 3/4" ball valve off at full tilt, draining my 65L tun and get around 78% efficiency.

Slots were made using the angle grinder - a dirty, noisy operation, but only took 10mins.

Go the manifold. It's stress free!

Cheers - Mike

Hi Mike,

I made mine with the angle grinder as well. My problem is that there are lots of barbs on the inside of the tube making it difficult to clean. Did you manage to clean these out?

Thanks
Andrew.

 

[Fourstar]

Braid has been fine for me. My 1st mash tun i made up out of PVC piping and slotted it like copper. worked well, only issue was under heat it would either bend or sometimes come loose....... those where angry days. Now i have cut one end off the braid, tore out the rubber hosing and folded off the end. it now simply screws onto the brass nipple im using as a part of my bulkhead. Hasn't come loose either (yet), Since adjusting my brewing process recently, efficiency's are around 73%, i used to get 65% Religiously probably due to my sparging process and no water additions to my uber soft water here.

 

[TidalPete]

Hi Mike,

I made mine with the angle grinder as well. My problem is that there are lots of barbs on the inside of the tube making it difficult to clean. Did you manage to clean these out?

Thanks
Andrew.

Give them a rub with a long round file of a suitable diameter. Hacksaw cuts (With the correct blade) leave minium burrs to get rid of. Grinders leave lots.
What a shame you don't need a square slotted manifold as I have a surplus one to get rid of that got me an average of 87\88% eff in my old Coleman square cooler.
:icon_offtopic: If anyone needs a square manifold PM me.

TP