Show Me Your Bottom.

[hockadays]

Can anyone see any problem twisting ss braid like this. I've tried it with out all the twists and it works but sometimes doesn't sit right on the bottom. The twists make it alot more rigid but I'm worried about flow going up and down.

 

[tangent]

Thanks everyone for posting photos. It makes it SO much easier to understand.

Hockadays - do you get much of a flow through the braid?

 

[hockadays]

I normally do without the twists. I'm scared to try it in this config incase it dosen't work real well. The braid itself works well although I'm keen to try other methods such as copper or false bottoms to see if theres much differennce.

 

[BrissyBrew]

Those using a grain and grape ss false bottom I am interested on your thought regarding hole size, I have one I think the holes are a little too big and suck in a little too much grain at times.

 

[Borret]

What size are they??

I made mine at 3/32 (2.4mm) after seeing that all the ones the seppo's sell are 3/32 on 5/32 centres.

FWIW I get a bit of 'germ' through at the beginning and end of running but rarely a husk.

Cheers

Brent

 

[warrenlw63]

I'd say it's another case of it depends. I use the G&G B3 FB and find small amounts of "germ" can get drawn through but never any complete husks.

The it depends would be if you use a pump (HERMS) or not where I suspect that the suction of the pump may be inclined to pull through more than what's considered the norm. OTOH I'm open to other's experiences here as I don't use a pump myself. :unsure:

Warren -

 

[Screwtop]

Those using a grain and grape ss false bottom I am interested on your thought regarding hole size, I have one I think the holes are a little too big and suck in a little too much grain at times.

Frank, used to be a concern for me too, much more crud comes through than with previous manifolds (mesh, copper, plastic). Found the secret is drain speed, now I open the valve fully to drop all the crap, sometimes have to run some water back into the outlet to get it started. Then turn the valve back to a slow run and recirc is done after about 2.5L. With the valve fully open I was recirculating up to 10L and still not getting clear wort. Now I fly sparge, after recirc I pop a 5L jug under the hose and back the valve off till the runoff is 500ml in 1 min. Then the hose goes into the kettle and I open the valve on the hlt to start the sparge, set the runoff from the HLT to 500ml in 1 minute using the scale on the sight guage. Come back after an hour to a drained tun and HLT.

That's why I put the element switch on the MashMaster, can turn off the element leaving power on to the MashMaster and still monitor the HLT water temp. Didn't want the element coming on after the water level drops below it.

 

[warrenlw63]

Another point I forgot to mention to chaps. If your FB is in a converted keg with a domed bottom. Make a point of checking the FB/keg floor interface to ensure there are no gaps. My keg/tun is a little beaten up around the bottom and allows a couple of very small undulations for which grain particles can migrate under the FB.

A cure for this if you can be bothered (personally I don't any more) is to cut a bit 8-9mm PVC racking tube up the middle and run it around the diameter of the FB. This makes a reasonably good seal and prevents crud getting underneath.

Warren -

 

[Fingerlickin_B]

Another point I forgot to mention to chaps. If your FB is in a converted keg with a domed bottom. Make a point of checking the FB/keg floor interface to ensure there are no gaps. My keg/tun is a little beaten up around the bottom and allows a couple of very small undulations for which grain particles can migrate under the FB.

A cure for this if you can be bothered (personally I don't any more) is to cut a bit 8-9mm PVC racking tube up the middle and run it around the diameter of the FB. This makes a reasonably good seal and prevents crud getting underneath.

Warren -

A hammer and dolly would fix up the bottom too

PZ.

 

[Borret]

Another point I forgot to mention to chaps. If your FB is in a converted keg with a domed bottom. Make a point of checking the FB/keg floor interface to ensure there are no gaps. My keg/tun is a little beaten up around the bottom and allows a couple of very small undulations for which grain particles can migrate under the FB.

A cure for this if you can be bothered (personally I don't any more) is to cut a bit 8-9mm PVC racking tube up the middle and run it around the diameter of the FB. This makes a reasonably good seal and prevents crud getting underneath.

Warren -

A hammer and dolly would fix up the bottom too

PZ.

What about a mallet and a teddy bear....

Barbi's feet would just fall through the holes...

 

[Kai]

is that termimesh Kai?

I haven't the foggiest. It's whatever Grumpy's keeps in stock.

 

[Murray]

I have a stainless scrubby stuffed up my mash tun outlet tbh. No problems batch sparging. Like POL said way back in the thread, you are just stopping the chunks, not filtering.

 

[tangent]

so you don't have any pipework or false bottom Murray?

 

[goatherder]

I've been meaning to post my pics here too.

I've got the G&G style 9" false bottom in my keg shaped mash tun.

I went with the flexible tube option and used a 3/16" ss bolt with a wingnut to prevent it from floating about.

Anyhow, the pics say it better:

 

[sluggerdog]

I just received the 12 inch fakse bottom from grain and grape and I cannot seem to get it within the keg though my opening I cut out on the top.

I don't want to cut it anymore as the lid I have just fits as it is.

What should I do? I'm probably only 1 cm around not fitting. Could I bend it then try and bend it back within the keg? Or should I maybe try and cut the false bottom?

 

[Steve]

I just received the 12 inch fakse bottom from grain and grape and I cannot seem to get it within the keg though my opening I cut out on the top.

I don't want to cut it anymore as the lid I have just fits as it is.

What should I do? I'm probably only 1 cm around not fitting. Could I bend it then try and bend it back within the keg? Or should I maybe try and cut the false bottom?

Couldnt you return it for a 10 inch one rather than chopping n cutting n bending.?
Cheers
Steve

 

[warrenlw63]

I just received the 12 inch fakse bottom from grain and grape and I cannot seem to get it within the keg though my opening I cut out on the top.

I don't want to cut it anymore as the lid I have just fits as it is.

What should I do? I'm probably only 1 cm around not fitting. Could I bend it then try and bend it back within the keg? Or should I maybe try and cut the false bottom?

Slugger you cut a slot in the top. Think circle with 2 lines.

See pic.

Then you just slide the FB down sideways.

Warren -

 

[AUHEAMIC]

I just received the 12 inch fakse bottom from grain and grape and I cannot seem to get it within the keg though my opening I cut out on the top.

I don't want to cut it anymore as the lid I have just fits as it is.

What should I do? I'm probably only 1 cm around not fitting. Could I bend it then try and bend it back within the keg? Or should I maybe try and cut the false bottom?

This is top side view of my false bottom set up.

View attachment 10062

You could try cutting a small slot in the rim around the top of your kettle as in the photo below.

 

[crells]

I've seen some pics around here where 2 slits were cut out on each side of the opening to allow the FB to pass through.

 

[sluggerdog]

Thanks for the quick replies!

All good, I got it in with a bit of a squeeze and one point where I had stuffed up the circle a little.

Now onto fitting it to my keg, I think I know how I will do this.

Cheers!