Robbo's Keggorator Build

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Robbo2234

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Hi All,

I Scored a all fridge on eBay all Fridge 420 liters! Nice
1.jpg



I played around with some kegs this arvo and figured i can fit 5 full size kegs and one 9 liter above and have some room for glasses and bottles.

BUT

Now loaded with kegs the door wont close.
IMAG0388.jpg


as you can see the bottom part of the door is hitting the keg.
I had a tap around and found its all hollow plastic.

On further inspection I found that the whole inside door mold looks to be screwed on I know that screws are holding on the seal as well.
IMAG0387.jpg


Has any one tried to remove the mold or is better just to hack and cut where needed.
My first idea was to unscrew the mold and replace it with some insulation and marine ply to try keep the coolness in and lower running cost.

IMAG0385.jpg


more to come... I suppose after xmas when I get some prezies!
 
Cutting the shelves out and fiberglassing over gaps might be a suitable solution. Nice looking amount of kegs in there aswell.
 
I suppose another option would be to cut only where I needed to. that leaves the top half of the door for hops and stuff.
 
I'd just cut the bits that are in the way and if you don't care how it looks just gaffa tape over so the inside doesn't get all mouldy.

But plenty on here have done exactly this:

My first idea was to unscrew the mold and replace it with some insulation and marine ply to try keep the coolness in and lower running cost.
 
The moulding should come off the door but you might have to hack at it. Quite often any hollows in the moulding such as where the shelves are formed will be filled with expanda foam insulation.

I removed mine completely and covered the door with white masonite. thats a good idea to only remove the bottom part of the door to use the top shelves for hops etc providing you can cut it neatly then seal it up properly afterwards.
 
Check bunnings for a plastic type sheet that would make a good flat replacement for the door skin.

Wish i had done that instead of chopping my shelves out.

Cheers
 
I'd just cut the bits that are in the way and if you don't care how it looks just gaffa tape over so the inside doesn't get all mouldy.

But plenty on here have done exactly this:


+1

Grinder with a cut off wheel and 15 seconds, fixed.

Don't be scared.
 
Also, I have my gas line running in neatly through the door rubber seal, then running behind the molding to where I wanted it in the fridge. I've also run the overflow of the CPBF behind the molding and out the front into the drip tray.

Of course you could do that with a replacement as well, probably even easier than trying to force gas line through the molding.
 
another vote for the "cut out only what you need gone" method.

those shelves you've got in that fridge are ideal for storing hops, yeast, vials, the odd bottle etc...
 
i pulled out all those screws on my 500L kelvy and the the plastic lining came out in one piece

i could fit 6 kegs in with it out and i tossed up the idea of using corflute to skin the door

but the foam was not flat under it so i put it back on and am using the shelves in the door and with only 4 kegs...

i reckon yours would lift out if you remove the screws
 
Could you build a raised floor so that the lower lip in the door slid under it?
 
Could you build a raised floor so that the lower lip in the door slid under it?

Good idea Chrisso81.

Also Bunnings is selling Sikaflex expansion foam cans for about 15 bucks . It could be used to fill the void in the hollow door after mods have been made. A little forming and sanding then paint it white with a spray can.

I recently got a free fridge on the street. I think it's the same manufacturer as yours, (Mine is branded Fisher and Paykell) - the shelves are the same. Only problem is the over temperature alarm that goes off every time my temp controller turns on. I puttied it up with blu-tac to soften the noise. Is there a button on the back skin of the door in yours?
 
Could you build a raised floor so that the lower lip in the door slid under it?


That's what I was thinking... a couple of bricks and some marine ply.. and when the time comes when that fridge dies, you can easily return it back to its former glory and it will look more attractive out on the street for someone to take rather than one with a hacked door..
 
that's a good idea, I am sure how it will go with a full keg over hanging the edge, I will look into it. I don't think the inside of the door will matter for re sale when there a 5 or so shank holes in it!
 
The first part of shows how to take the plastic door shelves out of a bar fridge, I imagine it'd be the same in your case.
I'd do something like that to the height of the keg and leave the shelves in the top section; or maybe take the lot out and line the door with something like marine ply?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I recently got a free fridge on the street. I think it's the same manufacturer as yours, (Mine is branded Fisher and Paykell) - the shelves are the same. Only problem is the over temperature alarm that goes off every time my temp controller turns on. I puttied it up with blu-tac to soften the noise. Is there a button on the back skin of the door in yours?

Mine is a Westinghouse, I am not sure how old it is but it just has the standard type light switch, I hope there is no alarm in the light / temp control box.

If your alarm is giving you the shits just crush it with a set of pliers or replace it with a resistor.
 
and here is another another shot with all available kegs in it, there is another two but there in use.

IMAG0398.jpg
 
So Santa was good to me this year! got enough for 3 taps! I will add the rest later.

CHI Company have taps $47.75 + 19.45 for shipping, That turns out to be 162.90.
I think that's a good deal! any know of any where cheaper?
I know a few of you have used CHI, how long did it take to ship?
 
This is where I got mine from
Perlick 525

Or use one of the sponsors above if you want them sooner and the support to help set it up.

Cheers

Robbo
 

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