Production time - 6 1/2 days for Guinness - Min 2 weeks in FV?

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trustyrusty

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Hi I was watching and episode of how its made and they showed The Guinness Brewery. They ferment in 2 1/2 days and mature for 4 days, ready in 6 1/2 days. I always hear 'at least 2 weeks' in fermenter. I can understand if you were going to bottle and you want to FG down to stable but if you are kegging is that as critical - you can always degas. Guinness most likely filter to get beer clearer so that helps. I always keg beers and leave for a least two weeks room temp, and then 2 weeks fridge.I know there are a gazillion variances but found it quite interesting that one of the best beers can be in the taps within a week. They also use nitrogen to carb. They must use a lot of nitrogen as that does not come from natural carbonation...

cheers
 
The advice of two weeks in the fermenter covers the - extremely likely - non-ideal fermentation conditions: lower yeast vitality and/or low yeast cell count.

Some strains work faster than others. Higher temperature will speed up the rate of fermentation.

If you consider the above, an appropriate strain of fresh, healthy yeast in high quantity should get you to FG within a couple of days. In fact some of the American ale strains do this easily.

A good indicator for how happy/healthy the yeast is, is how quickly it finishes. So again, advice on here is well-placed to consider less than ideal conditions. Ideally, the yeast will get to FG within a couple of days.

The 4 days to mature will also generally knock the last point or two off. Pretty well every major brewery moves the beer off the trub, hops and krausen from primary into another clean vessel for conditioning. That doesn't seem to be popular on this forum though, as less than ideal transfer conditions are assumed: not sanitary, introducing oxygen, breaking out head proteins.

Regarding the time, larger volumes tend to mature faster than smaller volumes. I'm not sure why - the only thing I can think is the driving force of concentration differences. So 20-25L should condition faster than 750mL. And 10,000L will mature quite quickly.

For most beers, I try to do conditioning in another fermenter to hopefully speed up aging. Probably pale ales are the only ones I don't do this for.

For simplicity and risk reduction, that's how two weeks is arrived at - time to settle to FG, and some conditioning time. If your circumstances are closer to ideal, you could push this a little.
 
I would regard 2 weeks as the absolute maximum amount of time for beer to be sitting on the primary yeast, that with good temperature control. More than 7 days to hit FG and I think you have underpitched egregiously.
Nearly all commercial brewing is done in CCV's (cylindro conical vessel) which makes dumping trub easy and safe, you could expect at least two to three dumps over 14 days. so suggesting racking once isn't I think excessive.
As for size mattering I understand that Guinness have a 2 million litre fermenter so if size plays a role, they might be at a slight advantage there.
Mark
 
Not a technical answer, but I pitched my stout on 1/3 yeast cake from a low grav mild, and it was high krausen in 12 hours, and is starting to flocculate now, and it's not 2 days until this evening.

Accordingly, I could see the 2 1/2 day thing as being quite plausible with the right pitching rates and the right yeast.

I avoid if I can leaving anything more than a week in primary. If I'm uber lazy it goes into a fermenter and down to serving temps until I could be bothered with it.
 
Forgetting exact units of time for a minute, allowing fermentation to properly finish is about more than just extra fizzy beer.

There are byproducts of fermentation that taste bad but get cleaned up by contact with healthy yeast, given sufficient time. Time also allows yeast to drop out of suspension, generally resulting in cleaner tasting, clearer beer.

Guinness will have a number of industrial advantages, possibly including pressurised fermentation, filtration, appropriate yeast pitch, perfect temperature control, etc.
 
A few years back I brewed an Aussie Old to keg for a Chappo brewday. Brewed on a Sunday, kegged on Friday, consumed Saturday. Was one of the best Old's I have made.
 
I'm testing a speed ferment as we speak.
Put down a 15L 1.048 brew with nottingham yeast on Saturday night, by Monday night it was 2 points off of predicted FG. Kept under 20°c as far as I can judge.
I dry hopped last night, will cold crash on Saturday and bottle Sunday.

I just want to see what the effects of not letting the yeast 'clean' up after themselves are, also to try and have a quicker turn around if I can infact shave a week off.

Or I might have 15L of foul tasting beer....
 
The other thing is, Guiness is a dry stout and doesn't have a massive spectrum of flavours. Who knows what the actual recipe is - probably has sugar in it - but it certainly doesn't have multiple roasted and caramel malts, and it's not particularly alcoholic - both of which lean towards less conditioning time.
 
I'd be interested in how your speed ferment compares to two weeks. My gut feeling is that Guinness have such refined process that they can pull it off with some minor compromise in finishing off that may not be noticeable in a stout.

Transfer off yeast after ferment if you want but I don't buy that it will affect your beer unless aging for a long time. If anything it's an opportunity for oxidation.

This is a legacy from old brewing practices to prevent yeast autolysis, the general consensus with most experts now is that the negatives of transferring outweigh the benefits for standard gravity ales.

Another thing to consider is what your objectives are. If you need a lot of beer quickly for an event maybe there is a benefit if you brew occasionally I would think you are limiting the opportunity for your yeast to clean up some off flavours from fermentation.
 
jbaker9 said:
I'd be interested in how your speed ferment compares to two weeks. My gut feeling is that Guinness have such refined process that they can pull it off with some minor compromise in finishing off that may not be noticeable in a stout.

Transfer off yeast after ferment if you want but I don't buy that it will affect your beer unless aging for a long time. If anything it's an opportunity for oxidation.

This is a legacy from old brewing practices to prevent yeast autolysis, the general consensus with most experts now is that the negatives of transferring outweigh the benefits for standard gravity ales.

Another thing to consider is what your objectives are. If you need a lot of beer quickly for an event maybe there is a benefit if you brew occasionally I would think you are limiting the opportunity for your yeast to clean up some off flavours from fermentation.
Just about these two points...

Yes, transfer is an opportunity for oxidation. It's also an opportunity for infection, and breakout of head-retention proteins. You should be able to very easily do this without causing oxidation (e.g. CO2 purging), infection etc. Bottom-transferring is probably the best way to do this, if you don't have CCV with a tap on the bottom. My view is that the lowest common denominator advice works for a while and serves well to increase the chances of making unspoiled beer, but should not be taken as gospel as a brewer gets more experience and improve their practices. Sanitation and careful transfers should be a given, not something special you do every now and then.

I'm not sure about the legacy from old brewing practices either. A couple of fairly solid sources1,2 suggest the beer should move off hops and yeast basically as soon as possible to avoid imparting harsh flavours to the beer. I'm pretty sure I've read this in other places too. This is well before autolysis comes into play.

1 - German Wheat Beer, Eric Warner - (paraphrasing) skimming is done during primary fermentation to remove hop resins and trub particles to ensure a clean fermentation. Pg 72-73
2 - New World Lager Brewing, Greg Noonan - the head can be floated or skimmed off, so that it does not fall back through the beer. Only a clean head should be allowed to fall back through the ferment. Residual scum gives the beer a harshly bitter background flavour. The stability of the beer is invariably less [versus] if the [krausen head] is removed or the beer is quickly separated from its trub after the [krausen head] falls. Pg 184, 185

I'm pretty sure Greg Noonan mentions it in a number of places in his book - the main point being that the krausen drives out a lot of unwanted particles which should be removed. If they settle back into the beer, get the beer off the particles ASAP. The only exception to this would be thin, low alcohol beers which could benefit from extra 'character'.
 
Possibly why I don't like Guinness that much.

And also why I absolutely love a nicely (6+ months) non-pasteurised and aged Stout.
 
Regular Irish Guinness made in Dublin is a 4.3% ABV stout that is fermented at around 25 degrees for 40 hours primary. You can do this yourself using Wyeast 1084 Irish Ale which is a close relation to their yeast.

It is pitched at about 20 and is allowed to rise naturally to 25, then "matured" for a few days. They've been doing that since the 1930s I believe as that was also the ferm schedule at the Park Royal brewery they used to have in London.

I have done this with the Wyeast in a number of dry stouts and one of them was the one that got me over the line to win the BABBs competition in 2011 and got me the trip to New Zealand.

1084 is notorious for being done and dusted at "normal" fermenting temperatures with often a surprise beer clearing from the top on day three. Ferment at 25 and it's a rocket, leaving few if any esters.

Edit: Guinness in Australia is brewed as a lager and has been since Tooheys got the Gig in the 1970s then CUB then back to Lion. Ferm schedule probably a bit different here.
 
jbaker9 said:
I'd be interested in how your speed ferment compares to two weeks. My gut feeling is that Guinness have such refined process that they can pull it off with some minor compromise in finishing off that may not be noticeable in a stout.
1/
Transfer off yeast after ferment if you want but I don't buy that it will affect your beer unless aging for a long time. If anything it's an opportunity for oxidation.
2/
This is a legacy from old brewing practices to prevent yeast autolysis, the general consensus with most experts now is that the negatives of transferring outweigh the benefits for standard gravity ales.
3/
Another thing to consider is what your objectives are. If you need a lot of beer quickly for an event maybe there is a benefit if you brew occasionally I would think you are limiting the opportunity for your yeast to clean up some off flavours from fermentation.
4/
I disagree with nearly everything in the above
1/ You're presupposing that 1 week is speed fermenting. Rather 2 weeks is slow fermenting, with a proper pitch and good temperature control there is no compromise involved, apparently Budvar get primary done in 3 days at 8oC, no apparent ferment faults.
2/ Racking or a healthy pitch doesn't cause oxidisation, bad brewing practice does.
3/ "the general consensus with most experts" Name one expert, not someone who posts a lot, but a single reference suggesting that getting off the trub is a bad idea.
4/ Good beer takes time, my objective is to brew the best beer I can. Maturation takes time and a bigger pitch has nothing to do with getting the beer into the glass faster. Two parts to the answer, a bigger pitch of healthy yeast will produce less off flavours that need cleaning up (low stress), the other is that there is and should be plenty of yeast in the beer when it's racked, its just that its yeast that is still working not lying on the bottom heading toward autolysis. At the time when beer is cask clearer are still looking at somewhere in the order of 10,000 c/mL - heaps to condition the beer, not enough to cause much if any trouble.
Mark
 
I thing I have noticed with brewery videos (How it is made, how did they do that, I have seen Millers, Budweiser, Boston,Guinness and a few others over the last few years as I have been brewing I have taken note of these shows), they ALL, of what I seen, move the wort into maturation tanks after initial ferment normally 3 to 5 days....Just thought that was interesting, they seem to use secondary tanks.

BTW why is moving to a secondary tank as a chance for infection more than any other situation. Surely if you are as careful with your gear as you were in the first process - why is that not the same?? You also move to a keg too or bottle so they are all chances of infection...


cheers
 
In my experience, the risk is overstated.

Present certainly but as you suggest - exercise appropriate caution and it's more than likely a risk that's mitigated.

Backlash against the old idea that you absolutely had to transfer ever beer to a secondary vessel otherwise it would end up a vegemite and goat neck hair mess.

I use a second vessel for beers that need much more than 3 weeks before packaging unless I get lazy. I go by taste and gravity first though - fg must be reached and no acetaldehyde detected.
 
MHB said:
I disagree with nearly everything in the above
1/ You're presupposing that 1 week is speed fermenting. Rather 2 weeks is slow fermenting, with a proper pitch and good temperature control there is no compromise involved, apparently Budvar get primary done in 3 days at 8oC, no apparent ferment faults.
2/ Racking or a healthy pitch doesn't cause oxidisation, bad brewing practice does.
3/ "the general consensus with most experts" Name one expert, not someone who posts a lot, but a single reference suggesting that getting off the trub is a bad idea.
4/ Good beer takes time, my objective is to brew the best beer I can. Maturation takes time and a bigger pitch has nothing to do with getting the beer into the glass faster. Two parts to the answer, a bigger pitch of healthy yeast will produce less off flavours that need cleaning up (low stress), the other is that there is and should be plenty of yeast in the beer when it's racked, its just that its yeast that is still working not lying on the bottom heading toward autolysis. At the time when beer is cask clearer are still looking at somewhere in the order of 10,000 c/mL - heaps to condition the beer, not enough to cause much if any trouble.
Mark
Hi Mark,

I agree with most of what you say above. I have no doubt that you get excellent beer with primary/secondary. It sounds like you have good processes to avoid the potential negatives of racking to secondary.

I will go through your points above.
1. I don't make any assumption about the time for ferment. Sure, for a low gravity ale with sufficient healthy yeast they can be done in 3 days. This will vary depending on gravity, brewing temperature, yeast strain etc. I agree 2 weeks would be a long primary ferment. Do Budvar bottle after 6 1/2 days? Fermentation is one thing. Once that is complete the yeast are still conditioning the beer to clean up some off flavours (this will still happen if the beer is racked to secondary and sufficient time). In the book Yeast by Chris White (of White Labs) and Jamil Jainasheff they state that a problem with many commercial beers is that they don't leave beer long enough to condition, resulting in high diacetyl levels.
2. Again, agreed. As per my original comment, it is an opportunity for oxidisation that has questionable benefit for a standard gravity ale.
3. I have read the books by John Palmer (How to Brew), Randy Mosher (Mastering Homebrew) and regularly listed to podcasts by the authors of Experimental Brewing Denny Conn and Drew Beechum. They all agree that for most ales there is no benefit to racking to a secondary. I would agree that secondary is important for high gravity beers that will be aged a long time, lagers, adding fruit and some other applications. Older texts do recommend this, but plenty of research has been done to come to the conclusion that yeast cake and trub will not negatively effect your beer over the course of a normal ale fermentation.
4. I agree with your comments in point 4 in full except for the point on autolysis (unless you are aging a long time). However, the original post is start ferment to bottle in 6 1/2 days. Maybe with the control of a commercial brewery this can be achieved, at home I have my doubts.

Don't get me wrong, I don't think that there is anything wrong with your process however I think that this belief about effects from autolysis and trub over short time periods are outdated by the latest research and literature. I wouldn't want a new brewer to think that they need to rack to secondary to make good beer - if they do this without getting all of their process down they may end up making it worse rather than better.
 
Trustyrusty said:
I thing I have noticed with brewery videos (How it is made, how did they do that, I have seen Millers, Budweiser, Boston,Guinness and a few others over the last few years as I have been brewing I have taken note of these shows), they ALL, of what I seen, move the wort into maturation tanks after initial ferment normally 3 to 5 days....Just thought that was interesting, they seem to use secondary tanks.

BTW why is moving to a secondary tank as a chance for infection more than any other situation. Surely if you are as careful with your gear as you were in the first process - why is that not the same?? You also move to a keg too or bottle so they are all chances of infection...


cheers
I expect that in commercial breweries this is for economical reasons.

In the large conical fermenters that they use they can drain trub and yeast cake from the bottom without requiring transfer. However, for primary ferment a larger fermenter is required. Once primary fermentation is finished they can transfer to a smaller fermenter.

Remember that a lot of what applies to a commercial brewery does not apply at home brew levels. Many of the old homebrew practices were transferred from commercial research. At their scale there are very real reasons for some of these practices.

My advise is:
- Keep it simple. Why add extra steps if they don't add value (as the evidence from some of the top homebrew authors suggests)
- Figure out what your objectives are. If you need to brew a lot of beer quickly this should be taken into consideration in your practices. If you will bottle then leave the fermenter empty for the next month maybe you can leave it a little longer. Maybe you have big fermenters for primary and smaller ones that exactly fit a batch and you need to free up the big fermenter. If you are doing it because a 20 year old brewing book says that it is absolutely essential maybe you should get some of the new books.
- If you want to do the research for your own interest, go for it.
- If it makes you feel warm and fuzzy, go for it.

If you have good processes and have the capability to CO2 flush your secondary you will get good beer either way.

As Denny Conn says, "don't worry, it's just beer".
 
Thanks

- In the large conical fermenters that they use they can drain trub and yeast cake from the bottom without requiring transfer.

Yes that is possible and what I thought but everyone has transferred to new tanks, I noted this each time...I think they reason could be that they start brewing another batch, otherwise all tanks would have to be fermentation tanks which might have temp controls / heaters / coolers attached to them etc... Where secondary tanks can be controlled by room temp or aircon... cheers
 

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