Polyclar

[Jim_Levet]

Usage instructions:

Add 5 10gms polyclar (23L batch) to half a cup of freshly boiled water. (For maximum efficiency the polyclar slurry should be stirred for minimum 15 minutes, preferably 60 minutes & kept agitated until used)
Add slurry to cold conditioning beer. (The colder the beer the better).
Minimum contact time of 5 to 10 minutes is desirable (if filtering), however there is no negative impact on the beer with extended times. If not filtering, leave for 2 to 3 days to settle, then rack off the lees.
Bottle or keg.

Now as I understand it, water is still made up of H2O. That being the case, why am I adding water at this stage of the process if the dissolved oxygen in the water could taint my beer???? Any takers?????

James

 

[Ash in Perth]

boiled water has virtually no O2 in it. as it cools before adding to the fermenter, it may take up a little, but not enough to worry about. Much less than bulk priming and racking would add.

 

[beersom]

Usage instructions:


Now as I understand it, water is still made up of H2O. That being the case, why am I adding water at this stage of the process if the dissolved oxygen in the water could taint my beer???? Any takers?????

James

Because it is no longer oxygen... make sense?!??

water is H2O- two hydrogen molecules and one oxygen molecule
Oxygen is O2 - two oxygen molecules
Ozone is O3 - three oxygen molecules

So basically for oxygen to be oxygen there has to be two oxygen molecules bonded

edit for spelling...
then edited to show the edit

 

[Ross]

Now as I understand it, water is still made up of H2O. That being the case, why am I adding water at this stage of the process if the dissolved oxygen in the water could taint my beer???? Any takers?????

James

James,

Half a cup of boiled has never tainted one of my beers, but if you do have a concern, just use half a cup of wort out your fermenter instead - works equally as well & all fears resolved...

cheers...

Ross

 

[Darren]

James,

Half a cup of boiled has never tainted one of my beers, but if you do have a concern, just use half a cup of wort out your fermenter instead - works equally as well & all fears resolved...

cheers...

Ross

So Ross, you are suggesting to boil a cup of fermented wort?

cheers

Darren

 

[Ross]

James,

Half a cup of boiled has never tainted one of my beers, but if you do have a concern, just use half a cup of wort out your fermenter instead - works equally as well & all fears resolved...

cheers...

Ross

So Ross, you are suggesting to boil a cup of fermented wort?

cheers

Darren

Darren - Absolutely not - just add straight to the cold wort. The only reason boiled water is recommended is for sanitation reasons, cold water works just as well.

cheers ross...

 

[NRB]

Now as I understand it, water is still made up of H2O. That being the case, why am I adding water at this stage of the process if the dissolved oxygen in the water could taint my beer???? Any takers?????

James, as beersom has indicated water is composed of two hydrogen ions and one oxygen ion; Oxygen (gas) is composed of two oxygen ions.

As brewers, we are not concerned with oxygen ions, but rather oxygen gas being introduced into beer (post-fermentation wort) causing oxidation and staling reactions. If we were concerned with oxygen ions, we'd be in a lot of trouble due to the major component of beer being water.

Oh, and boiling water removes oxygen, so there should be a negligible amount of dissolved oxygen entering your brew from half a cup of boiled water.

 

[timmy]

James,

Half a cup of boiled has never tainted one of my beers, but if you do have a concern, just use half a cup of wort out your fermenter instead - works equally as well & all fears resolved...

cheers...

Ross

So Ross, you are suggesting to boil a cup of fermented wort?

cheers

Darren

He said wort not beer.

 

[Steve]

OK - im getting a lot of chill hazed beers lately. (I bottle) If I add this to the cc'ing beer and leave for 2-3 days (as I dont have a filter) will bringing the beer back to room temp before bottling have any detrimental effects? By raising the temp it doesnt undo the work done by the polyclar? Im a bit unsure but wouldnt mind giving some a go.
Cheers
Steve

 

[Ross]

OK - im getting a lot of chill hazed beers lately. (I bottle) If I add this to the cc'ing beer and leave for 2-3 days (as I dont have a filter) will bringing the beer back to room temp before bottling have any detrimental effects? By raising the temp it doesnt undo the work done by the polyclar? Im a bit unsure but wouldnt mind giving some a go.
Cheers
Steve

Steve, no detrimental effects at all

cheers Ross

 

[Steve]

OK - im getting a lot of chill hazed beers lately. (I bottle) If I add this to the cc'ing beer and leave for 2-3 days (as I dont have a filter) will bringing the beer back to room temp before bottling have any detrimental effects? By raising the temp it doesnt undo the work done by the polyclar? Im a bit unsure but wouldnt mind giving some a go.
Cheers
Steve

Steve, no detrimental effects at all

cheers Ross

Cheerin - thanks Ross.
Steve

 

[DJR]

OK - im getting a lot of chill hazed beers lately. (I bottle) If I add this to the cc'ing beer and leave for 2-3 days (as I dont have a filter) will bringing the beer back to room temp before bottling have any detrimental effects? By raising the temp it doesnt undo the work done by the polyclar? Im a bit unsure but wouldnt mind giving some a go.
Cheers
Steve

Steve, no detrimental effects at all

cheers Ross

Cheerin - thanks Ross.
Steve

Sticks pretty well - personally i rack to the priming bucket when cold & adjust my priming levels accordingly, but i have let it warm up before, got a little bit more hazy that when i started but not enough to worry about. The bigger size polyclar granules (ie the VT type) that Ross sells seem to stick like glue to the bottom, especially with a bit of gelatin as well. Gelatin+polyclar+CCing is the ultimate beer haze killer, second only to filtering IMO.

 

[Hubby]

OK - im getting a lot of chill hazed beers lately. (I bottle) If I add this to the cc'ing beer and leave for 2-3 days (as I dont have a filter) will bringing the beer back to room temp before bottling have any detrimental effects? By raising the temp it doesnt undo the work done by the polyclar? Im a bit unsure but wouldnt mind giving some a go.
Cheers
Steve

Introduce the Polyclar slurry when cold and leave for the 2-3 days. Rack to your bottling bucket then bring back to ambient temp in the bucket (allow another day). When at ambient, bulk prime and then bottle. It couldn't be simpler.

Other things to watch for are sanitation and introducing oxygen as discussed - possibly more of an issue not from the slurry but from splashing when pouring in. I use a funnel and tubing into the very top of the beer (for both the Polyclar and bulk priming mixture) which virtually eliminates aeration of any kind.

 

[Steve]

Thanks - does the polyclar need to be stirred into the wort after pouring in?
Cheers
Steve

 

[Duff]

Steve,

When I use it I add the slurry to the cold keg, seal and purge with CO2, then pick the keg up and give it a shake to mix. I normally then leave for around 10 - 15 minutes and filter, but before my filter arrived I have left for 3 days to settle and racked off the top. Works a treat.

Cheers.