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Actually one more question, when you force carb beer doesnt it taste green? And also is extra time in primary work the same as time conditioning in bottles ? For example would a beer that spent one week in primary and two weeks in the bottles taste the same as a beer that spent three weeks in primary and then force carbed? Sorry for going off topic just curious

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I am no expert, but I believe there is a difference. Dissolved CO2 from force carbing is not the same as CO2 that has had the time to form the weak covalescent bonds with the H2O to form Carbonic Acid. Thats my understanding anyway. I think the latter also produces smaller bubbles. I could be completely off the mark tho, I'm just repeating what I was told when I asked the same question. :)


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Actually one more question, when you force carb beer doesnt it taste green? And also is extra time in primary work the same as time conditioning in bottles ? For example would a beer that spent one week in primary and two weeks in the bottles taste the same as a beer that spent three weeks in primary and then force carbed? Sorry for going off topic just curious

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Force carbing does not make a beer taste green. Beer that is too young tastes green.
Force carbed beer tatses just fine immediately after the fact but the bubbles are better after a few hours at the least.

I believe the answer to your question on more time in primary vs bottles is pretty simple. Primary has a yeast cake and is quite susceptible to infections in most cases.


I am no expert, but I believe there is a difference. Dissolved CO2 from force carbing is not the same as CO2 that has had the time to form the weak covalescent bonds with the H2O to form Carbonic Acid. Thats my understanding anyway. I think the latter also produces smaller bubbles. I could be completely off the mark tho, I'm just repeating what I was told when I asked the same question. :)


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Given time I can't feel a difference in the type of bubbles. I'd love to read something explaining the difference if anyone has a link?

I find some beers are more suited to bottles and others are better on tap.
 
Here's my finished product doing the rounds at a Melbourne Cup get together today.... works so well. I can get 2 bottles from one cartridge.

The ability to, somewhat, adjust pressure is the best thing for it I think.

Pimped_TK.jpg
 
Here's my finished product doing the rounds at a Melbourne Cup get together today.... works so well. I can get 2 bottles from one cartridge.

The ability to, somewhat, adjust pressure is the best thing for it I think.

Pimped_TK.jpg



That is awesome. Did you make the custom badge?

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Yeah just made it up using photoshop and printed it out on some magnetic paper I had. (I also print out label magnets for my keezer)

One Eye Brewing comes about because I've got one bung eye myself and my late brewing assistant (dog) was left with one eye after he had a rather unfortunate altercation with one of the neighbourhood cats!
 
That looks sweet moosebeer I might have to look into that magnetic paper. Also my force carbing worked a treat I'm drinking one now and it tastes great and has perfect carbonation.

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Guys how do you force carb tk bottles? Got a batch im wanting to drink now
 
Get it cold, chuck in a fresh 16g bulb and crank the pressure up to about 40 psi and shake till the bulb runs out. Chuck it back in the fridge for a bit then put a new bulb in set to serving pressure and drink

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Thanks to mrTbeer's guide I have been modifying my tap king. It's all all been easy until I got to putting my mini regulator together. The 1/4" female thread on the regulator is too small for the 1/4" male thread on the 1/4" male > 6mm hose barb fitting! Can anyone tell me where I've gone wrong?

I bought this mini regulator from 'country trading store' on ebay - link

and this 1/4" male > 6mm hose barb fitting.

The pics indicate they should pair ok, but there's no way. Unless on the reg packet 'attaches to 1/4" mfl disconnect' means something else.

Any ideas?

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MLF is a different thread, sorry for the bad news, I am sure some were linked earlier the thread
 
I have also been following this topic with interest and have just purchased all fittings (minus mini reg and line obviously) from Super Cheap Auto.

I have the same mini reg from the same place as notung above and have found that a 3/16 hose to 1/8 BSP fits into the reg where the disconnect assembly goes.

I have not tried this out yet as I am waiting on some line to run a T and waiting for an APA to finish its ferment.

IMG_0452.jpgIMG_0453.jpg
 
Mickcr250 said:
I just got my reg and the fml fitting should be a jic thread not bspt as in the eBay link Lucky I had something at work so Will test it tonight
Yep, there it is. I had missed that!


Hugh Jarse said:
I have also been following this topic with interest and have just purchased all fittings (minus mini reg and line obviously) from Super Cheap Auto.

I have the same mini reg from the same place as notung above and have found that a 3/16 hose to 1/8 BSP fits into the reg where the disconnect assembly goes.

I have not tried this out yet as I am waiting on some line to run a T and waiting for an APA to finish its ferment.

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IMG_0452.jpg
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IMG_0453.jpg
Ah, how interesting! A 3/16 id hose works out to be 4.8mm. Do you plan on running 4mm hose all the way to the low pressure side of the tap king or joining to 6mm hose as in the mrTbeer method? I wonder if a hose clip/clamp would get a 6mm id hose tight enough on the supercheap auto hosetail?
 
Going to try and run the 4mm hose all the way. Also have to run some thread sealant around before I test under pressure. Going to force carb my first bottle but wont be for around 6 weeks yet...... pesky work is getting in the way!
 
@notung - See my pics below.

After giving up on finding the correct MFL barb altogether i found this little gem at the Bunnings air tool section (Came in like a bike tyre/ball pump kit). Ripped off the MFL female fitting on the reg and it fit perfectly with an o ring to seal.
Uses 4mm hose all the way. No 6mm -> 4mm join like i have seen earlier on in the thread.

Tested and leak free up to 40 psi which is more than you need for force carbing.

photo 1.JPG


photo 2.JPG
 
Also good work HJ for finding the fitting from supercheap auto. Didn't even think to look there.
 
Nice one soreba!

Could you share roughly how much the pack from bunnings cost you and do you recall what else was in there?
 
notung said:
Nice one soreba!

Could you share roughly how much the pack from bunnings cost you and do you recall what else was in there?
I found the pack online.. Its the middle fitting at the top. I attached it to the reg with some thread tape and an O ring to seal.

http://www.bunnings.com.au/project-air-inflation-nozzle-adaptor-pack-_p6270249

That was just an easy solution i found, there are other fittings around but this one was just at my local bunnings so it was convenient to use.
 

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