Pid Setup

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Crusty

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Hi guys,
I have installed a ramp, soak. kiln, ssr PID, SYL-2352P from auberins & having trouble with understanding how it works.
I have it setup with PT100 probe, 3 wire. White on 5, two reds on 4 & 3. When switching it on, the alarm 1 light is lit up & the PV is reading 1227, my desired 66deg is set on SV. After a few seconds, it switches between the set point 66 & a green stop flashes. I did have a problem in the past with two wires coming away from the probe & auberins directed me as to which way to solder it back together.
Anyone have any ideas to get me going?
Cheers
 

fraser_john

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I'll power mine up tonight and see what it comes up with on initial power on. Sounds familiar though.

There is a default for what happens when power on occurs, I'd guess yours is set to "STOP", you can change it to resume at program step when power failure occurred. Stop is probably better.

Press the button (cannot recall which one from work) that cycles you through Step, Step Temp and Step Time. It is probably step 01, 66 is set point and time x on top display, y bottom display, where x is time for step and y is time progressed in step.

Another thing to do is, assuming your RIMS power leads are not connected, to press and hold the down arrow key, this should put the PID into RUN mode and if your set point is 66, it will turn the SSR output on and the light on the PID will indicate this.
 

Crusty

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I'll power mine up tonight and see what it comes up with on initial power on. Sounds familiar though.

There is a default for what happens when power on occurs, I'd guess yours is set to "STOP", you can change it to resume at program step when power failure occurred. Stop is probably better.

Press the button (cannot recall which one from work) that cycles you through Step, Step Temp and Step Time. It is probably step 01, 66 is set point and time x on top display, y bottom display, where x is time for step and y is time progressed in step.

Another thing to do is, assuming your RIMS power leads are not connected, to press and hold the down arrow key, this should put the PID into RUN mode and if your set point is 66, it will turn the SSR output on and the light on the PID will indicate this.
Thanks for the info.
I done a bit more reading :ph34r: & had to set the PID up for my temp probe, RTD-PT100 so on the PID menu had to select sn 21. I also managed to change it from F to C. I just need a bit of guidance for setting up the menus & the alarms to offset any overshoot. I need someone to turn theirs on & go through what they have theirs set at for each menu step.
PID without a PHD, bloody hell.
Cheers
 

cdbrown

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The manual has all the details for initial set up, there was a lot I didn't bother changing.

The hard part is getting the head around how to program the mash steps. For each step the temp you put in is the start temp of the step, the time is the length of the step. So if you want a 66c for 60mins, then ramp to 78c and hold for 10mins its
temp 66, time 60 - holds 66
temp 66 time 10 - ramps from 66 to 78 over 10mins
temp 78 time 10 - holds 78
temp 78 time 0 (or -1) - ends program
 

Thirsty Boy

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P gets you close - P is proportional to the error in the system, so th efurther from setpoint you are, the more drastic the action the controller will take. P eventually steadies it down to a nice solid state temp... but it will always be a little over/under your target temp. Steady and close, but a little out. The higher the level of P, the closer you'll get to your setpoint, but the longer it will take to settle down after a disturbance. If you set P (your gain) too low, it will take too long to get near your set point.

I - Layers on top of P control and reduces the gap between your set point and your steady state temp. It does this by setting the system wobbling and then zeroing in on the target more closely, but it gives more overshoot during the wobbly phase - lots of I means a swift return to a stable state and less wobbles, but still a little gap between the stable state and your target, less I means less swift return to steady state but less overshoot.

D - sort of tamps down on the wobble so you can turn P & I up a bit further without it getting all unstable and messy. It anticipates the error and evens it out. Turn it up too high and it can stop your system ever reaching its set point.
 

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