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Pale Ale Recipie Advice

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m3taL

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Want to to a BIAB over the weekend,

Thinking a pale after drinking my Extract on last weekend which was done with POR and Cascade hops at 36IBU

Now thinking an AG version with Nelsons and Amerillo's

2.5kg Pale Malt
1.5kg Wheat Malt
250g Crystal 60

15g Nelson Sauvin (11.3%aa) 24ibu @ 60min
15g Amerillo (9.2%aa) 12IBU @ 20min

500g Dextrose

18L Batch
OG 1054
FG 1006
36.3 IBU

Things i want to know

Im No chilling so should i move 20 min hop addition to 5 min?

iv added the dextrose to bring the FG down a litte and dry the beer out a touch..... is this somthing that would be ok or will it bring odd flavor to the beer?? been getting 1012's and they seem a touch sweet...

also with hops iv never used either hop and just want to know if it looks ok, i know they go together just the quantity im unsure about

Also i'm out of dry yeasts so i'm thinking about getting a wYeast pack could some one recomend which one to get??

Cheers

Jamey
 

milestron

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I use 1272 for apas - no reason in particular I just figure if 1056 is practically identical to us05 then may as well go for something different
 

Rowy

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1272 is a good yeast to use. I would move that 20min addition if you want it there for flavour.
 

warra48

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Too high a proportion of wheat to make it a Pale Ale in my book. More like a Golden, Blonde, or Summer Ale. Personally, I'd up the pale and reduce the wheat proprotionally.

Hop schedule looks OK, but won't give much in the way of hop flavour or aroma. You need to use more late hops, and perhaps cut back on the 60 minute addition. 36 IBU is OK, but you could go a little higher for a Pale Ale if you wish.

Suggested yeast in previous post is fine to go with. I also like Denny's Favourite 50 for some interesting additional character (can't give you the number, I'm on holidays and using my laptop).

If you think your brews have been too sweet, drop the crystal down a bit, and add a bit more pale. The dex will dry it out, but won't add any maltiness or flavour.
 

m3taL

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Cheers guys

Wishing the recipie db was up

Might move wheat back to 500g and bring the pale upto 3.5kg

Nelson's 10g at 60
Amerillo 10g at 10
Amerillo 10g at flameout

I like us05 so maybe just the 1056 not up for making a complex beer still learning a lot

And learning to like hoppy beer.... Not sure I could drink mega swill again......... Be like wtf where's the hops at

Interested to see what kind of difference the wyeast makes
 

warra48

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Better this time. Looks OK.
 

manticle

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Dex will only dry it out if you are using it in place of base malt. Not knowing your batch size, I'm not sure if you'd usually use 4kg of base (for example) and have cut it down and replaced with dex.
.Also lowering your mash temp can help with a dry finish although sweetness perception is a result of many things. Upping the IBU could also help.

As for NC hop additions - I say (and I always say) brew as you wrote or read the recipe first, then change if you think it's too bitter or not aromatic/hoppy enough for your tastes.
 

warra48

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OP noted batch size at 18 litres.
 

bruce86

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do you use brewmate? if you do use the no chill box.
 

bum

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I use brewmate and I have never trusted the no-chill box. It is a great bit of kit and RandyRob has done a brilliant job on it but my experience is that different beers need different adjustments for no-chill and a one-size-fits-all approach doesn't seem appropriate to me. I reckon it is better to "suck it and see" and feel your way around the problem yourself.
 

jyo

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As Bum has said, Brewmate is fantastic, and I find the nochill button to be a good guide for most styles, but brewing a hop-driven beer like APAs using nochill, you have to just brew a few and adjust to suit your tastes.

I no chill and a typical hop schedule puts my bittering addition at 40, then 10, 5, flameout, and a big whirlpool addition. I aim for about 40% of the bitterness (as indicated by brewmate) to come from flameout and whirlpool additions.This gives me a level of hop aroma that I'm pretty happy with, with or without dry hopping.

Cheers.
 

m3taL

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Cheers guys

I use beer smith 2, do have brew mate but still prefer beer smith plus I paid for it......

Reason I use 4kg in 18l brew is due to my last brews efficiency working out to be 55% but I didn't really hit my numbers either, but now beer smith is telling me to use 27l of strike instead of 23 for my 18l into the cube, last time I ened up with 15 and basically put the whole pot in trub n all so iv allowed for 1l of trub loss

Will use the grain bill then add dex to fermenter if I feel it needs it will see how efficiency works out this time
 

m3taL

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Ok iv done some tuning to the recipie.....

19 L Batch
OG 1051
Est FG 1010
Est Efficiency 59%
IBU: 38.7
EBC: 19.6
Style APA


3.5kg Pale Malt
1kg Wheat Malt
500g Caramalt
250g Crystal 60

BIAB 35L Brew Pot (borderline on a 18L Batch with 5.2kg of grain)
Mash @ 64c for 90mins then 10 min mash out @ 75c

15g POR @ 60
15g POR @ 40
15g Amarillo @ 20
15g Amarillo @ Whirlpool

1 Whirlfloc @ 15min

Thats from beer smith.... now for the No-Chill i might bring all hop additions forward 10 mins and was even thinking about some more amarillo in the no-chill cube 10g or so.....

Ferment 5 days @18c (wYeast 1056)
Secondary 5 days @ 20c
Cold Crash 4 days @ 1c
Bottle & Condition 35 days @ room temp. (Bulk Prime with Dextrose 2.3vol)

Will be good to see how it pans out then will document and post results back in here to what adjustments will be needed....
 

Ducatiboy stu

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Basically for a Pale Ale keep wheat to 10% of the grist otherwise it will start to dominate with a slight peppery taste. Keep Xtal light

No chill does bring problems bitterness and flavour due to the fact that the wort stays hot for a fair amount of time. cut the times back slightly with your additions, but remember its the actual boiling that releases and imparts the flavour/aroma. Dry hopping is more an issue with No-chill
 

manticle

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Ducatiboy stu said:
Basically for a Pale Ale keep wheat to 10% of the grist otherwise it will start to dominate with a slight peppery taste. Keep Xtal light

No chill does bring problems bitterness and flavour due to the fact that the wort stays hot for a fair amount of time. cut the times back slightly with your additions, but remember its the actual boiling that releases and imparts the flavour/aroma. Dry hopping is more an issue with No-chill
I was under the impression that isomerisation is predominantly temperature related (although pH and wort movement play a part too) and that alpha acids will continue to isomerise and thus solubilise above about 80 degreeC?

Also I'm not sure what the distinction is between dry hopping NC beer and dry hopping chilled beer. What do you mean it's more of an issue?
 

ianh

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The way I get round the No Chill IBU calculation problem is put my hops in large hop bags then remove them at flame out.
 

bum

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manticle said:
I was under the impression that isomerisation is predominantly temperature related (although pH and wort movement play a part too) and that alpha acids will continue to isomerise and thus solubilise above about 80 degreeC?
I cube at about 80C and can say with certainty that bitterness continues to develop below this temp.
ianh said:
The way I get round the No Chill IBU calculation problem is put my hops in large hop bags then remove them at flame out.
That will assist but not prevent the issue. The oils already extracted will continue to isomerise while hot even if the plant matter is removed. Removing the plant matter obviously prevente more oils from being extracted, of course.
 

manticle

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bum said:
I cube at about 80C and can say with certainty that bitterness continues to develop below this temp.
My understanding is that hops contain various compounds that contribute to bittering (try drinking hop tea made with cold water or biting a hop pellet).
However IBU is calculated solely on alpha acid isomerisation/solubilisation. Isomerisation occurs above ~80 - doesn't mean bitterness won't develop from other factors.
 

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