Old 30LBirko Urn, not working

[beercus]

Hi all,
Manage to pick up this Urn from work, they tell me it is not working. I have not tried it yet, looking for some advice:

1. Is it worth trying to fix it?
2. where the hell do i start!
3. Is it possible that the element just needs a good clean? vinegar, C2K2O6?
4. If i get it working, should i change the tap, sight tube, add a thermowell and an STC-1000?
5. What is the purpose of the reset button?
6. Would i just be better off spending cash on a 40L

Some pics below, Thanks
Beercus

 

[DU99]

Reset button is same as a overload..considering a new one costs about $230-250.

 

[beercus]

Here are another couple of pics of the circuitry. Temperature control looks like it has a burnt mark on one of the terminals. Could this be the problem?

Thanks
beercus

 

[old mike]

Try putting a multimeter on the element contacts and test for continuity, if OK you could direct wire it and use a controller to adjust temps.

 

[beercus]

Ok, got it home, opened the bottom and found a loose wire, reconnect and she boils!

Now how to get the bastard clean. Element seems caked with minerals and corrosion.

I have vinegar and sodium per carbonate with water in the urn now warm. Thought I would leave it overnight and see in the morning.

Will it just be a case of scouring with some elbow grease?

 

[blekk]

I use gumption, warm water and one of those green scouring pads on mine. Works a treat

 

[beercus]

I use gumption, warm water and one of those green scouring pads on mine. Works a treat

So here's me thinking you are just being verbose and i get to the supermarket and blow me down there is a product called 'gumption'!

CLR states on the back to 'not use on kettle or urn with exposed element', so i went for the gumption. Removed the element and have coated it with gumption, will get stuck into it a little later with a scourer....

Would a grinder with wire disk be overkill? or the carbide rasp on my multi-tool?
As i was cleaning it a little it looked like some of it was a copper colour. What colour should it be?

Thanks
Beercus

 

[Bribie G]

Originally they are nickel plated copper. However when used for BIAB etc and need constant scrubbing, they go to copper. It would probably take you a few decades to scrub your way through that copper.

See photo in this post.

for cleaning, try filling to just above the level of the element and chuck in a couple of tubs of Citric Acid from the baking section of the supermarket and leave overnight. You might still be able to get kettle / electric iron descaler as well, but with everything being throwaway nowadays I don't know if people still use that.

 

[beercus]

I do have some hydochloric acid, would that be as good as citric? I have used it for cleaning bricks...

Beercus

 

[NealK]

A couple of tablespoons of citric acid and boil for 10 mins, it will look like a new urn.

 

[beercus]

After a soak for a couple of hours in Hydrochloric acid and a little scrubbing this is where we are at. It looks like the nickel has gone in most places and we are down to the copper.

Does the copper oxidise (turn green) when stored?

I will get some citric acid for maintenance cleaning.

Now time to look at changing out the tap, possible the sight tube which i'm having trouble cleaning and also look into a thermowell.
any advice?

before and after shots.

 

[DU99]

"kettle / electric iron descaler"' you can same from coffee makers..get a few lemon's cut into quarters and boil.

 

[Bribie G]

Replacement sight tubes are available from CraftBrewer, the Crown and Birko ones have the same thread at the bottom where they screw into the metal block. You'd need to cut down the Crown one to fit the Birko as it's shorter and squatter.

Tap could be a worry, it's hard to remove the existing tap without distorting the thin metal of the urn body, maybe give it a go with a couple of shifters and replace with ball valve.

if the tap is sealing well maybe all you need is to unscrew the top plastic part of the tap, clean out the insides and replace very carefully with a smear of keg lube to avoid crossing and stripping the threads.

If it's a real old urn the upper plastic assembly will be lined with a metal thread inset into the plastic, and this engages with the thread of the lower cast tap body. If so you have won. If it is the more modern cheapy version of Birko, the thread of the upper assembly will be just plastic so be very careful.

 

[blekk]

Just removed mine the other day. Hold a spanner on the lock nut on the inside of the urn and unscrew the tap from the front.

 

[blekk]

Ha ha just saw the post re gumption.... no there really is a product and it works quite well on many surfaces especially on stainless

 

[mrsupraboy]

Considering ur probably not an electriction. I would just take the old element out. Seal it . The add a weldless element from keg king. There is better ways to do but thats the safest

 

[Maheel]

Considering ur probably not an electriction. I would just take the old element out. Seal it . The add a weldless element from keg king. There is better ways to do but thats the safest

why would you replace a great BIRKO element with a POS keg king one ?

thats a bad idea,

he's got it running, get a sparky to look over it for safety and if needed get rid of the old thermo and put in a STC1000

 

[beercus]

Ok did some work this evening on the rig!

Replaced the tap and drilled a new hole for the thermowell.

Marked the sight tube with a scale. I'm now boiling for 30mins to approximate evap rate.

I needed to put a cake tin on top to get a vigorous boil.... Maybe the cake tin is a little large as it's spitting a bit

I'm going to put some SS bolts in a wood fire oven pizza tray to sit just above the element. See pic.

 

[beercus]

The pizza tray i plan to use as an element guard is aluminium. Any problem with that?

Beercus