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manaen

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Ok .. I have done 2 pale ale partials for my first 2 partials ever. The first one is fan f%&king tastic, the second one is in CC now.

I love the pale ale styled beers, but I want to try and expand my drinking palate. I am not a fan of dark ales/stouts but am willing to try anything really.

I have the following yeasts to use:

WLP008
WLP010
WLP802
WLP099

I want to do another partial so if anyone has a great recipe they want to share, bring it on.
 

kungy

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What pale ale styles have you done so far? ie American, British, Australian Pale Ale

Will
 

manaen

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So far I have done a LCPA clone, australian pale ale and an american pale ale. I guess I could try a english pale ale...

I would love to have a light/pale ale that has a caramel flavour to it ...

anyone?
 
J

Jovial_Monk

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Thos Fawcet caramalt will give you that caramel flavor

Jovial Monk
 

manaen

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Got a fav partial recipe for me JM?

Maybe an caramel/toffee english pale?

anyone else?
 

manaen

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How would this go guys?

2kg Marris Otter
500g Caramalt
1.5kg light liquid malt extract (unhopped)
Northern Brewer hops (bittering)
Fuggles hop (finishing)
White Labs WLP010
 
J

Jovial_Monk

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I am far from a fan of caramelly beers. I just suggested the TF caramalt to give you the caramel taste you wanted and still keep the beer pale-ish. And not totally glugged up.

500g sugar boiled in a little bit of water untill it changes color to a medium amber, or two tins of Lyle's Golden Syrup available from Coles--don't touch the CSR stuff--which is invert sugar would help with the toffee flavor.

JM
 

Trough Lolly

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manaen said:
Got a fav partial recipe for me JM?

Maybe an caramel/toffee english pale?

anyone else?
[post="60519"][/post]​
Ask and ye shall receive! :D
Ok, here's a part mash english ale that I've done a while ago. Its been about 6 weeks in the bottle and is shaping up quite well IMHO...

Here's the promash recipe;
Trough Lolly's English Bitter - Part Mash
A ProMash Recipe Report
BJCP Style and Style Guidelines
-------------------------------
08-C English Pale Ale, Extra Special/Strong Bitter
Min OG: 1.048 Max OG: 1.072
Min IBU: 30 Max IBU: 60
Min Clr: 15 Max Clr: 47 Color in EBC

Recipe Specifics
----------------
Batch Size (L): 22.00 Wort Size (L): 11.00
Total Grain (kg): 4.00
Anticipated OG: 1.053 Plato: 12.98
Anticipated EBC: 19.2
Anticipated IBU: 41.4
Brewhouse Efficiency: 80 %
Wort Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Pre-Boil Amounts
----------------
Evaporation Rate: 10.00 Percent Per Hour
Pre-Boil Wort Size: 12.22 L
Pre-Boil Gravity: 1.095 SG 22.56 Plato

Formulas Used
-------------
Brewhouse Efficiency and Predicted Gravity based on Method #1, Potential Used.
Final Gravity Calculation Based on Points.
Hard Value of Sucrose applied. Value for recipe: 46.2100 ppppg
Yield Type used in Gravity Prediction: Fine Grind Dry Basis.

Color Formula Used: Morey
Hop IBU Formula Used: Rager

Additional Utilization Used For Plug Hops: 2 %
Additional Utilization Used For Pellet Hops: 10 %


Grain/Extract/Sugar
% Amount Name Origin Potential EBC
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
42.5 1.70 kg. Coopers LME - Pale Australia 1.038 8
25.0 1.00 kg. IMC Ale Malt Australia 1.038 4
7.5 0.30 kg. Brown Sugar (dark) Generic 1.046 158
7.5 0.30 kg. Bairds Munich Malt Great Britain 1.037 13
5.0 0.20 kg. Weyermann Carapils (Carafoam) Germany 1.037 3
12.5 0.50 kg. Bairds Stout Malt Great Britain 1.037 5
Potential represented as SG per pound per gallon.

Hops
Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
19.00 g. Generic - Kit Hops Pellet 9.00 20.0 60 min.
20.00 g. Goldings - USA Pellet 7.00 16.4 60 min.
15.00 g. Hallertauer Pellet 4.70 2.8 20 min.
15.00 g. Cascade Pellet 6.30 2.2 10 min.

Yeast
-----
WYeast 1028 London Ale

Mash Schedule
-------------
Mash Type: Single Step
Grain kg: 2.00
Water Qts: 6.34 - Before Additional Infusions
Water L: 6.00 - Before Additional Infusions

L Water Per kg Grain: 3.00 - Before Additional Infusions
Saccharification Rest Temp : 64 Time: 60
Mash-out Rest Temp : 0 Time: 0
Sparge Temp : 70 Time: 20
Total Mash Volume L: 7.33 - Dough-In Infusion Only
All temperature measurements are degrees Celsius.
-------------

Ok, now a couple of points regarding this one. Try to use either 1028 London Ale yeast or a sachet of S-04 dry English Ale (Whitbread) yeast and if you use S-04, keep the fermenter under 20C to avoid excessive fruity esters. The recipe is based on an 11L boil volume (actually 12.2L at the start of the boil) and the efficiency of this recipe is based on actual final gravities and volumes.
The Coopers LME - Pale is actually a can of Coopers Draught. And because I used a can of hopped concentrate, I manually added 20IBU's of generic hops in the hop bill to account for the hopped concentrate and ensure I didn't overhop the boil. I always add the kit at flameout and gently stir through, so I don't lose any aroma or hop flavours from the kit.
In hindsight, I will swap the 300g of Bairds Munich for 300g of Thomas Fawcett Pale Crystal malt, steeped in a grain bag to give me the caramel sweetness that such an ale needs. My picnic esky restricts me to about 2kg of grain, hence the grainbill adding up to 2kg plus sugar and kit concentrate. If you can, increase the carapils to 300g - it's great stuff for adding body and head to the brew, without darkening it or oversweetening it (the crystal malt will do that anyway, much to JM's distaste!! :ph34r: He doesn't like crystal malt :p )
As for the hop bill, add some more Goldings to give you at least 20 IBU's - in this case, I'd increase the Goldings to at least 25g (it all depends on the A/A% strength of your Goldings) and you might like to try Willamette or some more Goldings in lieu of the Cascade addition that I did late in the boil. The Goldings I used were the Yakima / USA type, not English Kent Goldings and they are more softly perfumed, so you need to add more if you want to use them for aroma or flavouring. At 7% A/A they also do a good bittering job...
I mashed for an hour at 64C and it seemed to do the trick - you might want to mash a tad warmer if you like a bit more body in your brew - 66C is fine but remember, you have Carapils in the mash so don't mash too hot or you'll have trouble getting the FG below 1.012. My FG was in fact 1.008 from a starting gravity of 1.045...You need at least 1 week in primary and 4 weeks in secondary - preferably in the fridge if you can. Bulk prime with dextrose to suit your carbonation level, or keg...
Ahhh, stuffit - all this talk about English Pales means I'm gonna open another bottle now!
Cheers,
TL :chug:
Edit: spelling.
 

manaen

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Well I decided to keep this fairly simple, I went and got my grain soirted out yesterday so this is what I will be using:

1.5kg Liquid light malt extract
2.15kg JW Ale
0.5kg JW Munich
0.35kg Light Crystal

Now I have Northern Brewer and Fuggles hops, and though I might try some ELP802 yeast.

Will this taste any good? my last attempt at a lager ended up infected and haven't bothered with them since.

Should I just stick to WLP008 or WLP010?
 

manaen

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:excl: HELP !!! :excl:

Ok ... in my excitement last night, I somehow forgot to check the temp of the wort before pitching the WLP802. :( I somehow remembered AFTER I pitched it and swore a lot. The wort was at 32degC.

Woke up this morning, 12 hours after pitching the yeast to find it sitting there dormant .. took a reading and it was the same as when I pitched the yeast.

Now I know every second question on the forum is "what should I do?" .. but .. wait for it .. what should I do??

I have a packet of Saflager S23 in the cupboard, should I pitch it if it hasn't started by tonight (24 hours after pitching the WLP802)??
 

Trough Lolly

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Ok, the yeast was pitched too hot, as you know - so leave it for 24 hours and see what happens. The first 24 to 48 hours is the adaptive phase for the yeast where it comes to terms with its (rather warm!) surroundings. Did you make a starter or did you just pitch the WLP802 as is?
You must bring the temp of the wort down otherwise you risk trashing the S23 as well (if you have to use it). What is the temp of the fermenter right now? Is there any displacement in the airlock? Have you got any small patches of bubbles on the surface of the wort?

Give the brew at least 24 hours - after you bring the temp down - before you give up on the 802. If you can, bring the 802 gently down to around 13C - and if it's in the high twenties, you should drop it down to 13C over around 24 hours - if you crash cool it, you will probably lose the yeast, so relax and take it gently...

TL
 
J

Jovial_Monk

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yes 32C is too hot, but nowhere near hot enough to kill the yeast.

You do sometimes have long lag times with liquid yeasts and they are not necessarily bad.

Jovial Monk
 

manaen

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I left the fermenter out on the kitchen bench last night, and the wort had dropped down to 24degC.

I brew in a converted fridge, which is set to 12degC at the moment. Before I left for work this morning I put the fermenter in. Being a large amount of water/wort not sure how long it will take to get down to lower temps.

Was looking at the whitelabs website and they state to keep the temps between 10-12degC.

The WLP802 was in a 1.5L starter, which was active the day before using it (I missed using it while active by about 12 hours) so hopefully it will kick off again.
 

Trough Lolly

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Jovial_Monk said:
yes 32C is too hot, but nowhere near hot enough to kill the yeast.

You do sometimes have long lag times with liquid yeasts and they are not necessarily bad.

Jovial Monk
[post="61368"][/post]​
Once again, Tom is spot on!
That's why you need to leave the brew alone for at least 24 hours before giving up on the original pitching. Just make sure you have a backup strategy, should you need to call on it.

Cheers,
TL
 
J

Jovial_Monk

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And try re-aerating before repitching if no activity after 24 hours

JM
PS Thx for the plug TL :)
 

manaen

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I put as much oxygen in the wort when I pitched the yeast as I can. I used an aquariam pump with an airstone and she foamed up well.

Hopefully (fingers crossed) when I get home from work, the little yeaties will have woken up and formed a nice krausen for me. I haven't had a successful brew using a lager yeast yet, but I sneaked a taste of the yeast starter and it tasted pretty good just with straight malt extract!

Bring on the lagers I say :chug:
 

RobW

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Jovial_Monk said:
I am far from a fan of caramelly beers. I just suggested the TF caramalt to give you the caramel taste you wanted and still keep the beer pale-ish. And not totally glugged up.

500g sugar boiled in a little bit of water untill it changes color to a medium amber, or two tins of Lyle's Golden Syrup available from Coles--don't touch the CSR stuff--which is invert sugar would help with the toffee flavor.

JM
[post="60532"][/post]​
What's wrong with the CSR one JM?
 
J

Jovial_Monk

Guest
Hmmm, well, try it and see. But the Lyle one is lighter in color and body and is just invert sugar.

JM
 

manaen

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Well I got home from work and there is positive pressure in the airlock .. I waited 5 mins and it only bubbled once. There is no krausen, and I took a sample reading and it hasn't changed.

So since there is evidence of CO2 production should I give it till morning?
 

Aaron

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manaen said:
Well I got home from work and there is positive pressure in the airlock .. I waited 5 mins and it only bubbled once. There is no krausen, and I took a sample reading and it hasn't changed.

So since there is evidence of CO2 production should I give it till morning?
[post="61519"][/post]​
Yep, give it some time. Don't worry too much about a lack of bubbles. Check the gravity tomorrow evening if you are still worried.
 

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