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New PID Build - Help.

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5150 said:

The SSR is great. I'm using 6 of them in my current control panel build.

I tested one of those K-Type probes that comes with it, it rusted after the first time it saw water. I never even got around to testing if it was water tight.

Don't know anyone who has used those Rex controllers, it may be ok, but I'm not sure. Reading the page, the pid only supports a K-Type probe. So the RTD pt100 as normally used for brewing will not work. The K-Type are more a wide range probe and don't seem to be as accurate for finer temperature measurements.
 
Thanks QldKev,

I'll test it out and see what it's like and report back if it was all a waste of a lobster. :unsure:

I've been watching your and Trumans build, very nice.
 
I'm still waiting for my ******* Auberins pid. Just sayin
 
I bought a Chinese PiD from ebay and apart from the instructions it is ok. If you want a ramp/soak function then go Auberin.
If you buy a Chines one make sure it supports a PT 100 sensor ( as Kev said ) and if you buy a Chinese PT 100 then replace the nut on it with a stainless one as that is what started to rust on mine.
I checked the sensor probe and the body with a magnet and they are stainless but the nut is chrome steel and rusts after a few uses.
The Chinese really lat themselves down at times as a stainless nut cost 20cents.

Cheers
 
Truman said:
I'm still waiting for my ******* Auberins pid. Just sayin

I think your local delivery man may be a brewer :unsure:
 
Truman said:
I'm still waiting for my ******* Auberins pid. Just sayin
Did you say you bought them from eBay or directly through their site? Shouldn't make a difference as I'm somewhat kinda maybe sure they are the same but...

I have had parcels lost over the years and maybe ended up at the local post office?
 
5150 said:
If you look at the pictures of the unit, the sticker on the side states Type K, but if you look at the other sticker showing the wiring diagram and terminals, it shows an RTD (PT100) can be connected to terminals 12, 13 and 14. If thats the one they send you, you may be ok.
On the subject of PT100 probes I have bought a few from Procon- products from Ebay, never had any rusting or failures. Been going strong for around 5 years. I did buy a cheaper one from a different supplier, when I installed it, wort came out the end of the probe where the wires exit, it was not water tight. All the procon ones I have bought are, I install them straight into the mash, HLT, kettle and herms without thermowells. All they require is an 8 mm hole, stainless flat washers and silicon baking tray seals.
 
The PID sensor that I have came from Uxcell on ebay just for everyone's info. Probe is 50 mm long and cost about $7.50.
The Procon one sounds the go..

Cheers
 
Parks said:
Did you say you bought them from eBay or directly through their site? Shouldn't make a difference as I'm somewhat kinda maybe sure they are the same but...

I have had parcels lost over the years and maybe ended up at the local post office?
I brought them direct from Auberins and their tracking says it left Florida USPS on the 5th June. I might go to the local Post Office and see if they have it.
 
seamad said:
I received some gear from auberins yesterday, five days from payment to delivery. ;)
Did you pay for express shipping or just standard shipping? Mine was standard shipping which their site says 2-3 weeks. Its been 16 days but others here have recieved theirs already.
 
seamad said:
Just the standard, was pretty surprised when it turned up.
**** yeh. I went to Aussie post and they said it hasnt even been received by them yet and Customs could have it.

I phoned Customs and they said Aussie post have a customs holding facility so if it was held up in Customs they would know that...WTF????

Im getting nowhere.
 
Parks said:
I just ordered one of these which has 120mm external dimensions so *should* be perfect and was $53 delivered.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300920471240

I will report once it arrives...
It turned up this week and the dimensions are perfect. It has some shelves which will make mounting nicer (IMO) as I can mount SSR etc internally instead of to the back or sides. It only has 2 rivets as the hinge (top and bottom) so I might change that to a piano style hinge to make adding some foam seals work better.
 
Looks like a well constructed box, especially with the corner supports. Are you going to use a fan for your heat sinks or use external heat sinks? The internal heat sinks are a lot cheaper but you should use a small computer fan to keep them cool.
 
Truman said:
Looks like a well constructed box, especially with the corner supports. Are you going to use a fan for your heat sinks or use external heat sinks? The internal heat sinks are a lot cheaper but you should use a small computer fan to keep them cool.
I seriously doubt the heat power of those SSRs as I was using one hooked to my arduino sitting on a table with no heat sink and it didn't even make the table cloth warm...

I will add an internal heat sink but no fan. I'll only have one.
 
Parks said:
I seriously doubt the heat power of those SSRs as I was using one hooked to my arduino sitting on a table with no heat sink and it didn't even make the table cloth warm...

I will add an internal heat sink but no fan. I'll only have one.
Yeh fair enough with one it probably wont be a problem. I have 3 of them all close together so added the fan for extra safety.
 
Parks said:
I just ordered one of these which has 120mm external dimensions so *should* be perfect and was $53 delivered.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300920471240

I will report once it arrives...
How is the medicine box going Parks? I was looking at one of those but went with a weatherproof junction box.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/180936183583?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Got the weatherproof cause most times brew day get messy.
 
Truman said:
Yeh fair enough with one it probably wont be a problem. I have 3 of them all close together so added the fan for extra safety.

If a professional builds the enclosure, they would never cut a corner and leave the cooling out.
 
QldKev said:
If a professional builds the enclosure, they would never cut a corner and leave the cooling out.
That entirely depends on the application and I would certainly argue a heat sink is more than adequate cooling for this system. This is based on only ever drawing 10A through for a 2000W element.

If you are (as you guys are doing) pulling much higher wattages than sure, it's warranted.
 
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