My HERMS & Brew Controller Build

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Eddiejoes

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I know this has been done to death but I still reckon more is better. I'm about 3/4 way through assembling the components to put together my 3 vessel HERMS.

I'm currently mashing in a cooler and boiling in a 46ltr ss pot on gas and am moving to 2 50 ltr kegs (legally obtained) for HLT & kettle and the aforementioned pot as my MLT. I've got my ball valves, sight guages, ss quick releases, elements (yes I stupidly bought the Keg King ones my god have mercy on my soul) and some insulated jackets being sewn up by the missus but construction on the brewing vessels hasn't started yet. I purchased the ss Herm-it coil from Nev an thats complete bar some PVC glue
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The system will be an electric/gas hybrid as I have a good burner and wanted to keep the costs down where possible the HLT & HERMS unit will run off electric elements and the kettle will be fired on the burner.

I'll post photos as I go but for today I have just received my PIDs SSRs and PT1000 temperature probes. My case is going to be constructed from a couple of old PC cases and just because its done my HERMS unit (going to mount in the bracket that came for the co2 bottle on my kegerator.

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I have a brew stand build (but not home) which I'll post on later. If you notice I've done anything stupid let me know advice is always welcome.

Case 2.JPG


PIDS 3.JPG


Herms stand.JPG


Current MLT.JPG


HERM-IT.JPG


SS QD.JPG
 
That looks like my 10 gal cooler! My thoughts are this if your going to a 46L mash tun (can't tell if your cooler is 5 or 10gal, either way) you should give your self the opportunity to do doubles, I easily do 46L of 1.065 out of my cooler mash tun. So I would if I were you keep an eye out for an old18 gal keg or grab a pot 80l plus. Some members have found these ok. Check the thread here

MB
 
It's only a 5 gallon cooler MB, cost and consumption are my overriding constraints. I'm a fan of higher gravity imperial IPAs and stouts and the odd drop of barley wine so I needed something to accommodate the larger grain bill. The other side is that I don't have a problem consuming what I brew (with some help) but I wanted to bottle about a case worth along with a full keg so I reckon 30 litres is the perfect post boil volume for me. Using brew smith I can scale brews to that without any problems.

The other side of the coin is that everything is upgradable, individual vessels can be swapped out and the controller will be easily upgraded to handle a bigger load if I upgrade the elements. As it stands the kegs came free so I'm happy to go with them until something better comes along.


It's true brewers do it better!
 
MastersBrewery said:
...(can't tell if your cooler is 5 or 10gal, either way) ...
I would have thought the 'INDUSTRIAL 5-GAL DRINKING WATER' label on the front would have given it away :p

It'll be a cold day in hell when I get sick of looking at build threads. Always something to learn off each one, especially for the new starter.

I see too that Nev has claimed another victim :beerbang:
 
Heh got me ... got too busy looking at the rest of the porn :p

That hermit coil kit is really making it's mark, sexy bit of kit.
 
First update, have ordered the last few bits and bobs. Switches x4 lights x4 and now I just have ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1397818132.434943.jpgto wait for delivery. In the mean time I've marked up the positions for the control panel. Not going to cut anything until the parts arrive just so I can double check the dimensions.

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It's true brewers do it better!
 
Great idea about using a computer case. They're easy to find, and can be nice and cheap if not free, they come in different sizes and have plenty of vents for heat loss.
 
Cheers Truman, as you said it came free I have the top from another case to make matching sides which I'll cut from it. I had meant to ask you and Qld Kev why you put in the 12v converter in your cases to run your fan. I was planning on wiring the fan directly to the SSR out on the pid which is 12v that way I get the fan on every time the SSR is activated.


It's true brewers do it better!
 
Eddiejoes said:
Cheers Truman, as you said it came free I have the top from another case to make matching sides which I'll cut from it. I had meant to ask you and Qld Kev why you put in the 12v converter in your cases to run your fan. I was planning on wiring the fan directly to the SSR out on the pid which is 12v that way I get the fan on every time the SSR is activated.


It's true brewers do it better!

The SSR 12v output on the Auber pids allows a max load of 30mA (= 0.03A = 0.36w). Even a 80mm 2w fan needs 167mA.
 
Thanks Kev, I have a qualified sparks linee up to do the wiring for me once I've assembled everything but as you can see my total ignorance of all thing electrical is working against me. Now to purchase a 12v converter-don't suppose you have a link to a suitable one.


It's true brewers do it better!
 
For the 12v power supply I just used one of these and switched it via the master switch. Plenty of power for a couple of fans and some blingy lights :)
 
Thanks Kev, really appreciate it have ordered


It's true brewers do it better!
 
Not much progress this week, I'm still waiting on the balance of the components for my controller to arrive and the long weekends will have played hell with deliveries. That said we have progressed on the HLT and Kettle. ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1398477166.331088.jpg
The keg on the left will be my kettle hence the larger cut out in the top and trimming of the rim. The other is going to be the HLT and really only needs a hole large enough to accommodate a hose so we didn't go overboard with it.

Still have to fit the welded collars for the valves and the thermocouple in the HLT and weld-less sight gauges but that shouldn't take too long now that the lids are off. Big shout out to my brother in law Damo who is doing this part of the assembly for me and accepting payment in beer.


It's true brewers do it better!
 
Ok so all my bits and pieces for my control panel have finally arrived, I did my first mock up this evening to make sure I was happy with the layout.

One small change from my original is that I decided to pop the pump lights directly below the switches instead of beside them, just thought it looked better.

I know I look a bit lopsided but I've left space in case I go to all electric later and want to add a third Pid.

Hit a roadblock with the instal as I need a larger drill bit to drill out the centre hole for the switches. Trip to Bunnings
looms

ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1400060932.438687.jpg


It's true brewers do it better!
 
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