My Grain Mill

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timmy

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Here's my latest project!

rollers are 304 grade 1 1/2" stainless pipe with straight knurl on drive roller.
bearings and housings hard nylon
base plate and hopper are 316 2mm stainless sheet TIG welded.
adjustment is made via two bolts and sliding bearing blocks.

took about 2 1/2 hours to complete.

PICT1402.JPG
 

GOLIATH

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That looks sensational timmy, if a bit large
What's the cracking like?

Regards
Dave
 

timmy

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thanks Goliath!
it fits just over a kilo in the hopper. Photo makes it look big.
cracking is very good compared to a certain HBS's cracked product.
needs a little refinement, will setup a drive system for the floating roller.
likes low speed best.
 

Hoops

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Awesome job Timmy.
Do you have a breakdown of material costs?
What did it cost you all up?

Hoops
 

Doc

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That looks sensational Timmy.
You'll have to make another one now and sell it back to the LHBS :p

Beers,
Doc
 

timmy

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hoopsunitedbrewery said:
Awesome job Timmy.
Do you have a breakdown of material costs?
What did it cost you all up?

Hoops
I did it very cheap :rolleyes:

It's all from offcuts and scrap that was lying around the workshop at work. The boss said go for your life. the milling job was a bit ordinary 'coz I had to use a blunt slot drill.

I'm going to setup a simple drive system for the sliding roller by putting two o rings arond the drive roller. also im getting a tiny bit of grain through the bearing slide so I'll put in a false wall at the ends of the rollers and it should be perfect.

Did the first brew from it yesterday. 4 kgs of grain made 18 litres OG 1.045.
 

Hoops

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timmy said:
I did it very cheap :rolleyes:

It's all from offcuts and scrap that was lying around the workshop at work
If there's anymore scrap SS pipe I would give it a good home, honest I would. ;)
I would look after it and feed it once a week :lol:
 

GOLIATH

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It's interesting that you make a point about the HBS cracking (I hope it wasn't me) The other point you make about the speed is also VERY relavent.

We have just motorised our Valley mill and whilst it cracks well, the speed 280 RPM, is a bit quick to allow some of the grains through. Once the idling roller is turning, no problem. We get around it by setting the gap a little wider and running it through twice with very good results.

Regards
Dave
 

Doc

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Dave,

I've been doing that on my Valley Mill lately too.
I run the grain through once on the second to closest setting, then through again on the closest setting. All this because I'm using a variable speed power drill.
When I used to use a battery drill I could just run it though once as it was a slower speed. The battery drills just couldn't handle the load though. :angry:
I'm hoping when I motorise mine I'll get the right speed and only have to pass the grain through once.

Beers,
Doc
 

Tony M

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Timmy,
I tried a few things to drive the idle roller and found the best was a wrap of bookbinding tape. About 3 turns filled the gap which I preset at 0.8mm. It drives well and seems very durable.
 

sosman

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Timmy - that is one cool job. Sheesh you must be fast worker, I reckon mine took more like 2 1/2 days (or more).

I'm going to setup a simple drive system for the sliding roller by putting two o rings arond the drive roller.
I put a single o-ring on mine you can see a skid mark on the passive roller below (very left of roller):



I made a groove in the other end to take a secone o-ring but it doesn't really need it - I would just prefer not to have to take it apart on brewday if if broke during the crush.

I also found slow was good. Since that picture was taken, I have made a hand crank for it. If I get tired I just put a socket drive in the power drill and crank away.

There is no knurling per se on my rollers but there is a bit of natural graininess in the jarrah which seems to help with the grip.
 

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