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in regards to crown urns
are there any temperatures that the values on the knobs resemble ie 1 = 20 degrees or whatever?
is there any value people use when getting to their strike temperature?
 
oh and does anyone know if this silicon hose
http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=691
fits over the tap on the crown 40L urn

Nah mate you would need the 9.5mm or 12mm ID hose (not sure which is closest to the urn tap though). With 12mm you can clamp it tight, with 9.5mm you can stretch it when it's warm.

Re your question a couple of pages back about the whole process, have a good read of these two threads, they will get you started on the process from go to wo.
AG for 30 bucks
20L stovetop (obviously if you have a 40L urn you don't need to dilute with water at the end, you can mash and boil the full batch in the urn)
 
If doing full volume BIAB in an urn, you don't really ever need to touch the dial - just keep it on boil setting (95-105) and when heating water to strike temp just check it periodically. The switch off, dough in, wrap urn in sleeping bags, quilts whatever. Then you don't need to switch the urn on again till after the mash. And you are going for boil anyway, so leave dial well alone.

I think the idea of the dial is that when an urn is being used for tea (whatever that is) :rolleyes: and coffee at ladies bingo or glee club practice night- which is what urns are really made for, not brewing, they bring it to the boil and then crank it back a tad so it's at perfect serving temperature without actively boiling. I'd hazard a guess that too much twiddling with the dial might shorten the life of the unit long term.

Edit: check the sticky topic "BIAB in electric urn" in this subforum. Still fairly current although I should maybe GOMA and freshen it up a bit as it's a few years old now - you might find that helpful. Also I don't bother with hose, just run it in - never had any problems with hot side aeration in the brews I generally make.
 

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