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What are people’s cleaning approach to the double ended spear? Do you take off the posts and dunk in sodium perc, line and sanitise after each 5L, or... :)

The manual talks about tightening the nut on the underneath of the spear for the beer post. Is that something to take off during cleaning?

How often do you replace the silicon dip tube?

Cheers,
B
Keeping the spear head, dip tube and tap together I run hot water through the beer tap until the beer smell is gone then give the spear head a quick scrub with a tooth brush.

The keg can be cleaned with a demi john brush (I don't know if we sell it here, as I brought that back from London). Works well cleaning the top 'cone' bit of the keg as well as the floor, but if I'm lazy it's hot water with a bit of detergent and a good shake/rinse until there's no beer smell.

No detectable effects on the next batch of beer as expected, so I'm sticking to this routine. The trick is to wash it as soon as you finish the beer and not let it dry out.
 
The trick is to wash it as soon as you finish the beer and not let it dry out.
Spot on, I rinse keg straight away, put in a teaspoon of sodium percarbonate and add some hot water. Put lid on and shake the keg. I then put some pressure in the keg and attach an open line (or picnic tap set up) to the beer out post so cleaner flushes through. Release keg pressure, drop lid seal in the keg, dangle lid in keg opening and fill to top with water. Leave min of of an hour but usually until the next day. (I pour into washing machine to utilise the water) rinse keg/ drain and then sanitise when ready to reuse.
 
Thanks folks. You’ve had no problems with your prv leaking?
 
No mate. When you pulled it apart and put new o-rings on did you look in the recess in the head itself. Look for gunk or manufacturing shavings of metal or scrapes on the recess itself. It could be the machining of the head that could be causing the o-ring to not seal properly. Also did you looked at the spring and ensure there is good resistance? Unlikely, but worth a look.
 
LHBS but if you're happy to use vinyl you might be able to get some tubing with a small enough ID
 
That would be much better than the silicone hose that comes with the kegs. I found that the silicone stained and split easily
 
If your going to buy a tap then yes, I had a normal tap and bought the flow control adaptor to make things easier and maintain the dispensing pressure. If you carbonate the keg at 12psi and then reduce the pressure to serve, your carbonation will drop and the beer will get flatter therefore the flow control tap allows the pressure to stay at 12psi.

You can use the flow control taps but having uses a lot of flow control taps and also this new device I would seriously consider getting a flow control ball lock disconnect instead. These look like this:

https://www.kegland.com.au/flow-control-ball-lock-disconnect-flow-restrictor.html

From a cost perspective it's similar to the flow control tap but they do function significantly better as a flow control device. We only just developed this product so it would good to get your feedback on the product.
 
From a cost perspective it's similar to the flow control tap but they do function significantly better as a flow control device. We only just developed this product.

Anyone see an issue here? new untested product is significantly better?

Don't get me wrong, I'll probably buy and try one of those units when I can, but the statement seems a bit off.

I've been happy with all my KL purchases so maybe it will be better.
 
Hi All,

If anyone still has any of these kegs and the blind welds aren't too bad, I've found you can clean with TSP and then do a redneck home passivation and it's much better.
I'd do multiple cleans with TSP first, seems to help. This link is useful for diy: http://beersmith.com/blog/2017/01/0...-beer-brewing-equipment-to-prevent-corrosion/

If you've got alot of black coming out of the keg or pretty bad tasting beer after a weeks storage, the welds aren't even close to sanitary and it will keep coming back.
Suggest cutting the top off for revenge and throwing it out along with the crappy first run regulators.

If the mini keg experience hasn't completely traumatised you, Kegland has some decent robotic welded, passivated ones that will work nicely with our double ball lock heads which are fine.
 
Hi All,

If anyone still has any of these kegs and the blind welds aren't too bad, I've found you can clean with TSP and then do a redneck home passivation and it's much better.
I'd do multiple cleans with TSP first, seems to help. This link is useful for diy: http://beersmith.com/blog/2017/01/0...-beer-brewing-equipment-to-prevent-corrosion/

If you've got alot of black coming out of the keg or pretty bad tasting beer after a weeks storage, the welds aren't even close to sanitary and it will keep coming back.
Suggest cutting the top off for revenge and throwing it out along with the crappy first run regulators.

If the mini keg experience hasn't completely traumatised you, Kegland has some decent robotic welded, passivated ones that will work nicely with our double ball lock heads which are fine.

Link or smoke signals to your double ball lock heads?
 
You can use the flow control taps but having uses a lot of flow control taps and also this new device I would seriously consider getting a flow control ball lock disconnect instead. These look like this:

https://www.kegland.com.au/flow-control-ball-lock-disconnect-flow-restrictor.html

From a cost perspective it's similar to the flow control tap but they do function significantly better as a flow control device. We only just developed this product so it would good to get your feedback on the product.

Hello KL,

I've submitted some feedback via the KL website on an order that I received earlier today. Two of the the three KL09041 flow control disconnects that I received have issues. The first one has a rapid steady leak from the top, the second has a less dramatic but still somewhat messy leak from the base. Neither can be used.

The third seems to be functioning as expected so far. It's a new product so I expect there may be some QC / teething issues. I've left details on the report and happy to discuss with your staff.

Apart from a few back ordered HOPs, the rest of the order was delivered to WA in record time. I think I put the order in Wednesday/Thursday and in delivered in Perth first thing Monday Morning, Great work.
 
Can confirm, the KL ball lock head units fit the mini kegs just fine - these mini kegs existed for many years before the AHB bulk buys btw
 
Hi All, Just wondering how you guys manage your kegs? I have acquired 6 x 8L kegs and 3 x 5L kegs. I have 3 tapping heads and the remaining kegs have the blank caps. Do you just switch the tapping head to the next keg and if so how do you carbonate it beforehand?
Thanks
 
Hi All, Just wondering how you guys manage your kegs? I have acquired 6 x 8L kegs and 3 x 5L kegs. I have 3 tapping heads and the remaining kegs have the blank caps. Do you just switch the tapping head to the next keg and if so how do you carbonate it beforehand?
Thanks
yes - switching heads is what I would typically do (and then purge head space with CO2)
For carbonating you can get a carbonation cap for the mini kegs.
Not sure if any of the sponsors sell them, but ikegger do.
KEG CARBONATION CAP
mini-keg-carbonation-cap_200x.jpg
 
yes - switching heads is what I would typically do (and then purge head space with CO2)
For carbonating you can get a carbonation cap for the mini kegs.
Not sure if any of the sponsors sell them, but ikegger do.
KEG CARBONATION CAP
mini-keg-carbonation-cap_200x.jpg

We have some reluctance with putting a pressurisable cap on these without PRV. It's only $4 more expensive jut to get the proper ball lock post lid. Is there any reason you wouldn't just us this:
https://www.kegland.com.au/mini-keg-ball-lock-tapping-head-with-silicone-dip-tube.html
 
We have some reluctance with putting a pressurisable cap on these without PRV. It's only $4 more expensive jut to get the proper ball lock post lid. Is there any reason you wouldn't just us this:
https://www.kegland.com.au/mini-keg-ball-lock-tapping-head-with-silicone-dip-tube.html

I have considered getting 6 x tapping heads for $174 plus delivery but I was thinking that for 6 x $5 ($30 plus delivery) I could turn the blank caps into 0.3 bar prv caps. Are you saying KL sells prv caps for $25/unit as I couldn't find them?
 
Hi All, Just wondering how you guys manage your kegs? I have acquired 6 x 8L kegs and 3 x 5L kegs. I have 3 tapping heads and the remaining kegs have the blank caps. Do you just switch the tapping head to the next keg and if so how do you carbonate it beforehand?
Thanks
I have the 5L fill it and let it chill in the fridge overnight, then set you reg to 16PSI, tip it on its side and rock for 3 minutes, turn the gas off and rock of another 30sec. Let it sit in the fridge for a few hours then if you have flow control taps go nuts if not release the pressure and set your serving pressure. It’s not perfect but it will be pretty close. Use the tapping head, if you carb and then put the blank plate on it will be hard to remove.
 
Last edited:
Holy thread resurrection, Batman!

And greetings from the UK.

I am posting here to see if anyone is still using these SS mini-kegs. There's not much on any UK forums regarding the kegs and certainly nothing as in depth as this thread that I can find.

By way of an introduction I have been using the cheap "easy kegs" for years and have about 20 on rotation. Four fit in an under counter fridge and I use the top taps (partystar deluxe/beer king 2000) to dispense. Fill from FV with some primings to condition and store until needed. Dispense around half the keg without additional CO2 until the pressure reduces then use a touch of CO2 as & when necessary to keep the beer flowing. I aim for "normal" UK cask beer levels of carbonation, so NOT warm and flat ;) but a little gentle tingle rather than an aggressive fizz.

I have had too many messy failures recently and have lost my supply of free kegs (new or used once) to replace the kegs as they get old and knackered so have looked as the 5L SS kegs as a natural (but more expensive!) replacement.

I have read the whole thread and it started nice and positively which led me to believe I was on to a winner, but then I hit the pages where people were having problems with poorly finished(?) kegs leading to tainting and discolouration of the beer and faulty regulators. I've come out the other side now but see updates on this thread have tailed off.

I have bought 1 keg so far and filled it on Tuesday before I found this thread so cannot now check the inside. THe outside all appears fine and dandy with no obvious defects.

What I would like to know, as above, is are people still using these and, if so, did the quality issues improve? Is anybody using these successfully for long term storage? My aim is to gradually replace all my old kegs over time and continue priming, conditioning and storing in kegs, and carry on with a 4 tap set up.

Any updates would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Oz (In The Garden of England, on the Other Side of the World.)
 
@Oz_UK
So it appears I'm on the other side of this issue you have. I'm wanting to use small kegs for cask conditioning of beer and then dispense via beer engine. I'd thought about using the 5 litre kegs that you have used a lot but they aren't available down here in NZ. Covid and brewery use in the rest of the world has stopped their export here.
I have one of the 5 litre kegs which I use for carry arounds but it does seem an expensive option and would cost a fortune really for managing 25 litre batches.

I have been looking around for alternatives and given the low pressure cask type ale have been considering these
https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/...tre-blue/340673.html?cgid=SCN01040902#start=3
Not sure if Halfords or camping/ caravan supply in UK would have one.

A floating dip tube from the bottom port and an adjust to the lid to fit a corney keg bulkhead fitting ( ideally a gas and liquid post ) would allow closed filling, agreed not that necessary for cask conditioning but useful in some cases, can use a pressure gauge or spunding valve on the post it and inject gas.

A little bigger than the 5 litre kegs but food grade as water container and could be propped up at an angle so the yeast accumulated below the exit bung.

It's worth a try. What do you think?
 
Hello,
I've been using the Kegland mini kegs for the past twelve months. I have 2 x 2L, and 2 x 5L, all with tapping heads. I pressure transfer from my cornys kept in a fridge in the shed into the minis to keep inside the house. I find the KL minis to be extremely well- finished, with no deliterious effects on the beer whatsoever.
 
@Oz_UK
So it appears I'm on the other side of this issue you have. I'm wanting to use small kegs for cask conditioning of beer and then dispense via beer engine. I'd thought about using the 5 litre kegs that you have used a lot but they aren't available down here in NZ. Covid and brewery use in the rest of the world has stopped their export here.
I have one of the 5 litre kegs which I use for carry arounds but it does seem an expensive option and would cost a fortune really for managing 25 litre batches.

I have been looking around for alternatives and given the low pressure cask type ale have been considering these
https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/...tre-blue/340673.html?cgid=SCN01040902#start=3
Not sure if Halfords or camping/ caravan supply in UK would have one.

A floating dip tube from the bottom port and an adjust to the lid to fit a corney keg bulkhead fitting ( ideally a gas and liquid post ) would allow closed filling, agreed not that necessary for cask conditioning but useful in some cases, can use a pressure gauge or spunding valve on the post it and inject gas.

A little bigger than the 5 litre kegs but food grade as water container and could be propped up at an angle so the yeast accumulated below the exit bung.

It's worth a try. What do you think?
That's what I use with the hand pump, well not exactly them but the no chill cubes.
002.JPG
 
@wide eyed and legless
That's good, the polypin is that just a CO2 reservoir collapsing as the beer is drawn ?
Can't quite work out if the bench is low or the Engine is quite high up. I'm thinking low bench given height of the crates.
 
@wide eyed and legless
That's good, the polypin is that just a CO2 reservoir collapsing as the beer is drawn ?
Can't quite work out if the bench is low or the Engine is quite high up. I'm thinking low bench given height of the crates.
The collapsible water carrier is full of co2, so yes, as the beer is drawn off the vacuum is replaced by co2.
 
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