Mill Motors

[Milk-lizard84]

So I've finally set up and wired my mill motor. followed the wiring diagram and I'm not having any luck with it.
When plugged in it turns on but the on/off and speed controller switch don't work. It kind of sounds like the power is pulsing.I'm at a loss as I'm not good with electronics. Any ideas?

 

[contrarian]

I think I had the same problem when I was wiring mine up and it was because I am **** at soldering and the terminals at the on off switch were shorting. I had to redo it and make sure there was a gap between the terminals.


If it's not that then I'd be recommending getting a sparky to look at it.

 

[nosco]

I think the motor will only turn 1 way. So maybe if you have the pot wired around the opposite way?

 

[contrarian]

Pretty sure the motor will turn in either direction but that can be changed by reversing the black and red wires to the motor, otherwise you would have to mount the motor a certain way for it to work and I don't think that's the case.

 

[Mr B]

Pics

Nice job

Assume you have found it by now, however do you realise your bush is exposed?

Mine made its way out one time, jammed the mill up big time. All good when put back in though.

 

[Milk-lizard84]

I've been told it's a problem with my power supply. Spoke to Shane at motion dynamics so maybe be able to sort it out. Other wise ill be buying another power supply from the ebay supplier he recommended.

 

[user 35653]

Should I be able to power the motor on after I've loaded grain into the hopper? I usually turn the motor on first and then add grain, however last Saturday I forgot and added the grain first.. The motor wouldn't turn the rollers and the power supply led flickered on and off - assuming it was overloaded? I got the powersupply fro aliexpress > is meant to be 30amp.... Did I get ripped off or is this normal?

 

[contrarian]

I am able to start my mill already loaded with grain, I don't have a massive hopper and have a 2 roller mill, not sure if either of those things would make a difference.

 

[user 35653]

I am able to start my mill already loaded with grain, I don't have a massive hopper and have a 2 roller mill, not sure if either of those things would make a difference.

Strange.... My hopper holds just on 10kg and I've got a MashMaster Mini.

 

[contrarian]

Possibly is the power supply not producing what it says it is, should be able to measure it with a multi meter but I would know exactly how.

 

[Camo6]

Will the mill run unladen? My bets on a dodgy power supply. You could measure the 12v output with a current clamp meter or ammeter but if you're not sure I'd leave it alone.
You could also fire up the controller with a 12v car battery to rule out the controller or motor.

Edit: think I'm confusing posts. Carry on.

 

[user 35653]

Will the mill run unladen? My bets on a dodgy power supply. You could measure the 12v output with a current clamp meter or ammeter but if you're not sure I'd leave it alone.
You could also fire up the controller with a 12v car battery to rule out the controller or motor.

Edit: think I'm confusing posts. Carry on.

The mill runs unladen well, it runs laden as long as it's running at speed first. If the mill is powered off and grain is added, it won't power on and the power supply makes a 'pulsating' noise as the rollers attempt to turn.

 

[zwitter]

My mill will start with a hopper full of grain but have to crank up the speed knob and then turn it back down. But if i have it running and add grain it gust chews threw it like it was on a picnic.

James

Wheat gives it a work out though


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[res]

Wow, I was beginning to wonder if this thread had an end :mellow: . Big thanks to the OP and everyone else for furthering the discussion, looks like a great product.

As I read through all the posts I could't find anyone using the same mill as me, and as it's on the bigger end of the spectrum I'd rest easier knowing it's been proven for my requirements, MM-3 Pro.
Anyone running a mill with 3x, 2 inch diameter rollers, or bigger?
Cheers.

P.S. Is this it the same model Full Pint are selling here

 

[butisitart]

whoops

 

[Mardoo]

Pretty sure DJ_L3thal is running a motion dynamics on an MM3. The roller diameter will make little difference. I'm pretty sure a larger diameter roller would require less torque to pull the grain through due to the entry angle being shallower, but that's just brain-thinkin' so don't quote me.

 

[Milk-lizard84]

Finally got my mill up and running. After a couple of hurdles and abit of stuffing around it's all done. Can't wait to brew again.

 

[Grainer]

Wow, I was beginning to wonder if this thread had an end :mellow: . Big thanks to the OP and everyone else for furthering the discussion, looks like a great product.

As I read through all the posts I could't find anyone using the same mill as me, and as it's on the bigger end of the spectrum I'd rest easier knowing it's been proven for my requirements, MM-3 Pro.
Anyone running a mill with 3x, 2 inch diameter rollers, or bigger?
Cheers.

P.S. Is this it the same model Full Pint are selling here

Yes I run a bigger Monster Mill 3... Confirmed

 

[Weizguy]

Wow, I was beginning to wonder if this thread had an end :mellow: . Big thanks to the OP and everyone else for furthering the discussion, looks like a great product.

As I read through all the posts I could't find anyone using the same mill as me, and as it's on the bigger end of the spectrum I'd rest easier knowing it's been proven for my requirements, MM-3 Pro.
Anyone running a mill with 3x, 2 inch diameter rollers, or bigger?
Cheers.

P.S. Is this it the same model Full Pint are selling here

My mill has 2 X 60 mm dia. rollers @ 200 mm long. Easy enough to hand crank, but now seriously looking at motorising.

 

[res]

Thanks for the replies lads,
I emailed Monster yesterday to try and get something definitive regarding torque, this is the response:




On 3/14/2016 11:00 PM, res wrote:

Hey guys,
I have the MM-3 Pro 2 inch rollers etc.. I'm looking to motorize it soon and need to know the minimum torque requirements, preferably in Newton Meters? Any advice greatly appreciated.



approx 100 in-lb with the 2Pro, and 150 in-lb with the 3 Pro.

~~fred francis
MBH


I think that works out to 11.2 and 16.9 Nm.
A little tight but should be fine.

 

[Grainer]

Yes I run a bigger Monster Mill 3... Confirmed

ALTHOUGH I HAE NOIW SNAPPED 3 SPLIT PINS.. THAT IS ITS WEAKNESS AND NOW IT HAS A SCREW IN IT !

 

[zwitter]

Re Split pins
I use lengths of stainless steel welding wire. Cheap as to replace. Have broken 4 or 5 but never anything else. I could go to a larger diameter wire or change to hardened steel but the whole point is for it to sheer?
James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[drofmob]

I have connected up the motor/gearbox to my mini mill. Base malt trials are seemingly effortless. From a standing start full of grain it starts like its empty. HOWEVER Not sure I have it working how it should . At the moment I have S1 connected to the (red) NO push to Close momentary button (I'm not a sparky so hope it get the descriptions right) S2 to the push to open push to close (green ) button. ( pot and on off switch working as expected)
Once the on/off switch is turned on , and with S2 in the open position motor ramps up to speed empty or under load fine.
If I push S2 motor stops with brake as expected. Then if I press S2 again motor runs. No real problem other than I thought I had to press S1 to reset , before the motor would run again. (I may have that wrong)
On the overload test I jammed the motor. Assumed it had cut out. Unplugged the motor spade connectors to swap them around to reverse the motor and un jam. As soon as I reconnected the motor it started up (in reverse). No need to press S1 to restart. Seemed like it had not tripped out. I did only have it running slow . Didn't like the idea of jamming it at full speed.
Sorry for such a long post. The motor is awesome . I just need to sort out how it's meant to work.

 

[res]

Can't help out with the wiring but will definitely be keen on getting a reverse switch set up.
From my experience using a drill that jammed often I found it much easier to swap collection buckets and run the drill in reverse causing all the malt to run through unmilled than to take off the hopper.
My drill setup would never restart with grain in the mill.

 

[mckenry]

Yes its supposed to go in reverse after a jam. You then press the red (i think) again and it goes forward again.

 

[drofmob]

Yes its supposed to go in reverse after a jam. You then press the red (i think) again and it goes forward again.

I thought that to. But after re reading posts. I think the reverse option will be in the firmware update.

 

[bigmacthepunker]

I love my new mill setup. Beats the old drill.

 

[Weizguy]

In my setup, I'm thinking that I may have to wall-mount the power supply and controller box, due to persistent flooding at my place,

Will that make a lot of difference to usable current, if there are longer leads on those components?

I'm sure MD would get tired of my claiming insurance and buying another controller every 3- 24 months. I know I would...
I feel the main issue is to mount the mill above the high level of the flood waters, as well as the electrical bit (of course).
It IS a nice mill , and I would not like to see it damaged.

Otherwise, I can just keep hand-cranking the old girl, and keep it portable.

 

[motiondynamics]

Insurance? Would that mean paperwork?
There's nothing worse than paperwork, especially when you have so little time to get everything you need to have done, done.
But no, mostly always happy to help customers out. Only times I ever get frustrated is the customers that wont help themselves which frankly, gets old... fast.

Lots of customers will use excuses to have you hold their hand as they manually wire up the controller while you're stuck waiting for them to do it in real time on the phone. It kills you because you don't have the margins built into the product to offer any kind of extended support except apart from the almighty "Have you actually READ the instructions? They specifically cover the questions you are asking!"

95% of the calls for controllers are 20 minutes and beyond and its almost ALWAYS the fault of something else. Incorrect wiring, poor power supply, Incorrect settings etc...rarely is there ever a fault with the controller because they are thoroughly burn tested before we ship them out. We certainly don't want customers to have issues!

Look at these scenarios...they really do happen

"Haha yes, I'm sure I wired it the correct way, but I'm 86"
"I thought I would just ring you and get you to run through it with me because I thought it would be faster than reading the instructions"
"I can't order it online because I'm 86"
"I don't know how to wire the potentiometer in, I thought this was a ready to go controller, so I'll send it back so you can fix it for me, I'm 86 so I can't do it myself"
"If i come around, can you set it up in this {insert random application here} I bought? I'm also 86"
"Your controller is rubbish and doesn't work! I've followed all the instructions and I'm really disappointed by your Australian Made rubbish, you should be ashamed telling people this is Australian made. Back in my day we sold quality and not rubbish like this cheap Chinese controller, I followed the instructions to the letter and there's no light for the power and its hooked to the battery!" <-- customer forgot to turn the controller power switch on (I added this one because it literally happened just now)

You have no idea how frustrating some customers can be and the ones that throw the age card are the worst, most annoying of all because they wont even try to help themselves no matter how much encouragement you throw their way!
Ahh, what can you do...apart from a nice long cold beer
:chug:

 

[Weizguy]

or two!