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Mashtun Manifold Poll

Aussie Home Brewer

Help Support Aussie Home Brewer:

What kind of manifold do you use?

  • Slotted copper

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Drilled false bottom

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Screen false bottom

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Stainless braid (eg easy hooker)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Basooka

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Other

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    0

sosman

beerling
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Mashtun engineers - what do you use or prefer?

For some pics check out manifold gallery.

If you have used more than one style, a post about why you changed and what the pros and cons are would be great.

:huh: oh yes and by basooka I probably mean bazooka.
 

dreamboat

Fantasy Brewer
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I had to put me down for an "other" .
I have a drilled copper pipe, which sits underneath a stainless V-wire screen.


dreamboat
 

GMK

BrewInn Barossa:~ Home to GMKenterprises ~
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I use a SS False bottom.

Got mine from St pats. It is according to Wessmith at maltcraft the right one - as in the whole size is under 2mm (approx 1.5mm on mine)

Alot of false bottoms have 2.5mm holes.

Very happy with mine...

Started with bucket in bucket with home made drilled 1.5mm holes.
When i upgraded to the 10 gallon round rubbermaid esky - upgraded to the new ss false bottom.
 

tdh

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I use a homemade stainless steel mesh FB that sits above the tap. There's too much deadspace and am considering placing tap into the base and lowering the FB.

Anyone else have similar?

tdh
 

Darren

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tdh said:
I use a homemade stainless steel mesh FB that sits above the tap. There's too much deadspace and am considering placing tap into the base and lowering the FB.

Anyone else have similar?

tdh
Me too. Whats wrong with dead space?
 

tdh

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Need to recirc more and tip keg for last litre or so.

Maybe it aint worth messing with after all, maybe I should just brew!

tdh
 

Darren

Beer Dog
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Just add another couple of litres of sparge water. Could even be cold water
 

Justin

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Or make a pick up tube that bends down to grab that last bit. It shouldn't matter too much because it's all under your false bottom so should be easy too fabricate.

Bazooka type set up. It's a 20cm roll of termimesh type stuff. Absolutely stoked with it's performance.
 

JasonY

The Imperial Metric Brewery
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Slotted copper here. Tried a bucket in bucket the first time I mashed and stuffed it all up. Made the copper manifold the next week and it works a treat.
 

SteveSA

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Slotted copper. Started out with bucket in bucket while doing partials but a bit too small for AG.

tdh

I'm pretty sure Dicko and Jayse both have the outlet at the base of their mash tuns with SS FB. I've grown to accept my deadspace.

Steve
 

RobW

The Little Abbotsford Craftbrewery
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Happy hookerer here - simple & easy.
 

Gough

Maintain the Rage!
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Another vote for the slotted copper :)

Shawn.
 

AndrewQLD

RED ON WHITE IPA
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Stainless steel false bottom, quick and easy.

Andrew
 

roach

brasserie de cancrelat
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been using slotted copper, but moving to a false bottom for my next brew
 

Batz

Batz Brewery...Hand crafted beers from the 'Batcav
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SS braid , the only way too go !

Batz :ph34r:
 

Andrew

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SS false bottom with 1.5mm holes.

Works a treat.
 

dicko

Boston Bay Brewery
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I voted for drilled false bottom only because that is what I use now.
Mine is home made and has 2.5mm holes which took me 7 hours to drill.
If I made another one I would use a dremel tool with a thin blade and cut slots as I feel it would be a lot quicker.
In my old tun I used a copper manifold and it worked well but it used to PMO with the bit that was allways left in the tun after draining.
Steve SA is correct as he said that I drain my new tun from under the false botttom with a pipe that exits the tun from the bottom, hence no wasted wort.
I get 5% on an average better extraction from the falsy over the manifold.
I noted what GMK said about hole size and I recon he is right to a degree as mine with the 2.5 holes takes a lot longer to clear than the manifold system used to but then I have not had a stuck sparge (yet) with the new system.
Whatever works for you is fine and the manifolds and braid systems are a lot easier and generally a bit cheaper to make.
Cheers
 

Justin

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I guess you could have drilled a plate of copper sheet (assuming yours is stainless). No different to a copper manifold materials wise but a hell of a lot easier to drill. Copper sheet might be a bit harder to come by than a sheet of stainless but hey. Actually while I'm on the subject anyone have any ideas on where to buy some copper sheet 1-2 mls thick? I was thinking about some cladding, guessing it would be too dear to be feasable but does anyone have any idea on price?
 

sosman

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Justin said:
I guess you could have drilled a plate of copper sheet (assuming yours is stainless). No different to a copper manifold materials wise but a hell of a lot easier to drill. Copper sheet might be a bit harder to come by than a sheet of stainless but hey. Actually while I'm on the subject anyone have any ideas on where to buy some copper sheet 1-2 mls thick? I was thinking about some cladding, guessing it would be too dear to be feasable but does anyone have any idea on price?
I think I have seen that kind of stuff at Challenge Metals (local scrap yard).

I don't think it is a regular feature though but it might be worth scrounging around a few scrap places.
 

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