March Pumps For Dummies

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johnno

It's YUMMY
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Since quite a few of us are using March pumps I thought I would start this thread for the people like me (maybe I am the only one :huh: ) who have a few questions about them.

I have a couple of qureies that can hopefully be answered.

Firstly: Whats the go with the trub in the bottom of the kettle? Is it safe to get some of this in the pump? Will it block etc?

Secondly: I am presuming a phosphoric acid solution is fine to run through it for sanitation.

All help appreciated.

johnno
 
johnno said:
Firstly: Whats the go with the trub in the bottom of the kettle? Is it safe to get some of this in the pump? Will it block etc?

Secondly: I am presuming a phosphoric acid solution is fine to run through it for sanitation.


johnno
[post="81710"][/post]​

A small amount of trub doesnt cause any problems. Most of the time, you'd be trying to elimate the amount of trub anyway, so using a march pump doesnt change anything here.

For cleaning, I always run boiling hot water throught the pump immediately after using it to dissolve any trapped sticky wort. Then when its time to use it again, I'll run a few hoses to and from my fermenter that has been filled with iodophor. I can then sterilise the pump, the lines and fermenter in one go.

vlbaby
 
Whirlpool in the kettle after you switch off the gas. Let it go for 5 mins or so and the majority of the trub will go to the centre of the kettle. You shouldn't get much if any in your pump that way. What you do get shouldn't be a problem.
I'm using caustic, but phosporic would be fine.

Beers,
Doc
 
I use phosphoric (pH 2) solution in mine. I first run cold water through it till there is no more crap coming out then I recirculate phos acid solution through the CFC with the pump.

Next time I brew, I follow a similar routine before hooking it up to the kettle.
 
Doc said:
Whirlpool in the kettle after you switch off the gas. Let it go for 5 mins or so and the majority of the trub will go to the centre of the kettle. You shouldn't get much if any in your pump that way. What you do get shouldn't be a problem.
I'm using caustic, but phosporic would be fine.
[post="81724"][/post]​
For big hopped beers like APA's, I find that although the whirlpool creates a cone in the centre, there is just so much trub that lots wants to exit via the dip tube.
 
sosman said:
Doc said:
Whirlpool in the kettle after you switch off the gas. Let it go for 5 mins or so and the majority of the trub will go to the centre of the kettle. You shouldn't get much if any in your pump that way. What you do get shouldn't be a problem.
I'm using caustic, but phosporic would be fine.
[post="81724"][/post]​
For big hopped beers like APA's, I find that although the whirlpool creates a cone in the centre, there is just so much trub that lots wants to exit via the dip tube.
[post="81730"][/post]​

So what happens if you get to the really thick stuff and it starts going through?
Can this clog the pump or worse damage it in any way?

johnno
 
Johnno - have you looked inside the pump? I wouldn't recommend stalling it for fun but after all it is magnetically coupled. Worst that can happen is the impeller stops turning and you have to dismantle it for cleaning. I have had some pretty chunky stuff start to run through it and my pump is still going fine.

YMMV
 
Hi,

What kind of oil do I use to lube it up the first time ??? Is a good long squirt of WD40 ok ??

Beers,
 
Reading the sheet of paper it was something like SAE 20. Not sure what WD40 would be like
 
In my experience it is the CFWC and lines that cause most problems of blockage. Usually hop plugs. Beware of hop pellets that haven't dissolved too at they make a horrible "crunch" as they go through the pump. Shouldn't be a problem because the impeller is only driven by magnetic attraction. Bit like a stirrer some people use for culturing up yeast. If something jams the motor will spin without a problem.
Darren
 
Hopeye said:
What kind of oil do I use to lube it up the first time ??? Is a good long squirt of WD40 ok ??
[post="81742"][/post]​
I can just see another addition to the "off flavours" page, "this beer tastes like WD40".

Unless they recommend it (and I don't remember anything to suggest that I should) I wouldn't lube it.

Having said that, I did have it apart once and I put some food grade grease on the bearing. Can't say it needed it.
 
Sos, You will definately need to lube the bearings of the motor. The lube doesn't come in contact with the head so there is not risk of contaminating your beer. At the top of the motor housing (if mounted correctly) there are two slots for oil. It only requires a drop of oil in each slot (sewing machine oil is ideal if you can get it). One day after many hours of operation my pump (screamed). I nearly had a heart attack. I put a drop of oil in each of the oil slots and it quitened down imeediately and has worked fine for the last three years. I put a drop of oil in the slots every once in a while now.
Darren
 
I've used my pump for a few years now, I just put a drop of normal engine oil in each hole before a brew and it seems happy.

I reckon WD40 would be a bit thin, and might even ignite under the wrong circumstances. Engine oil is probably a bit on the thick side but I'd prefer too thick over too thin, and when you're pumping hot wort the pump gets pretty hot and the oil will thin a bit anyway.
 
Yep, used engine oil too. Bit thick and can make a mess getting it in the hole (the motor that is)
 
What kind of fittings is everyone using for their pump? I was thinking of getting stainless steel barbs to screw on, but they're pretty expensive for what they are and i've only seen them on the morebeer site. Does anyone know where i can them locally or a similar fitting, something cheaper perhaps?
 
I use garden hose connectors. Cheap as chips and work perfectly for me.

pumpbox1.jpg050215_040.jpg

I originally intended to replace them with some nice stainless fittings (Pirtek or Enzed sell them). The hose connectors work so well it slipped right down the list of priorities though.

I have a brass male hose fitting on the kettle, to withstand the heat of the boil. I figured the rubber o-ring would melt and need replacing regularly but it's been fine. The hose is high temp food grade. I have a few assorted lengths and all have female connectors at each end. I also have a couple of male-male couplers so I can join hoses together if need be.

I'm still using the same $20 worth of Bunnings connectors across the whole system about 6 years on!
 
Darren said:
At the top of the motor housing (if mounted correctly) there are two slots for oil. It only requires a drop of oil in each slot (sewing machine oil is ideal if you can get it). Darren
[post="81770"][/post]​

I am still trying to figure out exactly where the 2 elusive slots are. :(

johnno
 
johnno said:
Darren said:
At the top of the motor housing (if mounted correctly) there are two slots for oil. It only requires a drop of oil in each slot (sewing machine oil is ideal if you can get it). Darren
[post="81770"][/post]​

I am still trying to figure out exactly where the 2 elusive slots are. :(

johnno
[post="81795"][/post]​

Johnno,

It's on the side of the motor housing (where the power lead comes out). If you spin it round you will eventually see a label somewhere in the middle that says "OIL" and has arrows pointing to each end.
 
Hopeye said:
johnno said:
Darren said:
At the top of the motor housing (if mounted correctly) there are two slots for oil. It only requires a drop of oil in each slot (sewing machine oil is ideal if you can get it). Darren
[post="81770"][/post]​

I am still trying to figure out exactly where the 2 elusive slots are. :(

johnno
[post="81795"][/post]​

Johnno,

It's on the side of the motor housing (where the power lead comes out). If you spin it round you will eventually see a label somewhere in the middle that says "OIL" and has arrows pointing to each end.
[post="81796"][/post]​


Got it now Hopeye.
Tank you for that.

johnno
 
Doc,

Where did ya score the high temp hoses ???

Cheers,
David
 
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