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sintax69

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Just a quick question when you guys make manifolds for the bottom of eskys what size pipe do you use (can find it in palmers aaahhh)



with the bazzooker ones do you insert anything into the braid to hold shape as I have heaps of it at work comes of cables but does not feel ferm enough I think with a couple kilos of grain it may cave in



has anyone found any scrap yard in sydney with kegs or know where to locate some in sydney



Feeling the pull of the grain. Moving to dark side
sintax :chug:
 

dicko

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Hi Sintax 69

Pipe size is generally 1/2" or 3/4" copper pipe, I used 1/2" and it seems to work fine and is easily compatible with common fittings.
Can't help you with the Bazooka I'm sorry, but they are quite common also and I am sure someone will add a comment.
If you intend to use a keg for a mash tun I would be inclined to use a false bottom, but again the choice is yours.
Good luck with your brewing!!

Cheers,
 

sosman

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Sintax - can't speak for the genuine bazookas but the SS braid you rip off "easy hookers" doesn't collapse.

If you wan't some inspiration, I have a manifold gallery at:
brewiki: manifold gallery

If you make a copper one I suggest 1/2". 3/4 is more difficult to bend and most people seem to work with 1/2 inch fittings in mash tun. If you check out the pics on brewiki: allgrain #2 you will see what I mean.
 

big d

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my mash tun has s/s braid over 5/8 id tube with the outlet coming down to 1/2 ss tube.all fittings are swagelok.kettle is s/s braid over 1/2" tubing.works a treat.no stuck flows etc yet touch wood.efficiency is mid 70s :)

cheers
big d
 

sosman

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big d said:
kettle is s/s braid over 1/2" tubing.works a treat.no stuck flows etc
Big D - do you use pellets in your kettle?

I have used SS braid (not over copper) and have had some blockage. I have heard others talk of their experience and it seems a mixed bag.
 

Darren

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Sosman, BD,
I found the SS braid worked well until I started pumping. The increased flow inevitably resulted in slow flow/blockages. I now have a ss false bottom. Hasn't stuck yet!
 

big d

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hi sos
yeah i use pellets and havent had a stuck draining yet touch wood.mind you i bet as i increase the hop additions the chances will increase in which case i will opt for a coarser braid.
as darren says with pumping the flows are greater so maybe the probability of stuck/clogged braides will increase.

cheers
big d
 

JFF

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How can the manifold effect efficiency ??
 

big d

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hi jff
its the sparge method that effects the efficiency.i dont think the manifold has any effect at all.

cheers
big d
 

sosman

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JFF said:
How can the manifold effect efficiency ??
It won't have any effect on mash efficiency. However at the system level it comes down the getting the maximum extract into the fermenter, not just as a percentage, but overall value.

With an effective strainer in the brewpot I guess you are going to be able to get more clear wort into the fermenter.
 

dreamboat

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The manifold does affect the efficiency, otherwise we wouldn't be using them. The design of the manifold probably makes very little difference, but it is certainly important to have one.


dreamboat
 

Boots

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Is there an optimal height to keep the manifold off the floor of the esky / tun / whatever ?

I'm looking at doing mine on the weekend, and am thinking I should just run the manifold in at the same height of the drain hole, and put supports under to keep it at that height?
 

Guest Lurker

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I think the optimal height is 0 mm. The lower you get it the less dead space and the better recovery.
 

Boots

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but if your drain hole is say, 2cm above the floor, if I angle the manifold down to sit on the floor, would that stop liquid from flowing out easily (ie. it has to go up-hill to the level of the drain).
 

THE DRUNK ARAB

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Boots said:
Is there an optimal height to keep the manifold off the floor of the esky / tun / whatever ?

I'm looking at doing mine on the weekend, and am thinking I should just run the manifold in at the same height of the drain hole, and put supports under to keep it at that height?
Boots, my manifold is at the same level as the drain hole and it doesn't sit quite level, have no problems with draining the mash.

C&B
TDA
 

Boots

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cool. Thanks.

AG here i come
 

Tony M

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Boots,
If you bend your manifold down it should siphon the last bit out at least to the top of the slots when it will suck air.
 

sosman

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Boots said:
but if your drain hole is say, 2cm above the floor, if I angle the manifold down to sit on the floor, would that stop liquid from flowing out easily (ie. it has to go up-hill to the level of the drain).
I have a piece of copper (no slots) coming from the tap down to the floor of the esky and my SS braid snakes around the floor. I treat it just like a siphon, I have a tube connected to the tap which is lower than the esky.
 

dicko

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Hi Boots,
On my mash tun with a manifold I just let it sit on the floor of the tun and angled up slightly to the tap and outlet.
When I was getting near the end of each sparge I just slipped a 1'' block of wood under the bottom side of the tun opposite the tap or outlet and that will help to drain just about all of the wort.
Cheers
 

Boots

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Excellent guys.. thanks.

So there is no reason to have dead space in the mash tun due to the syphoning effect - assuming that the outlet is below the level of the esky.

THanks again.
 

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