Kit yeast - is it all the same?

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Bradgc

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Hey,
I'm very new to home brewing. I've been reading what I can about hops and yeasts.

I've got a question about yeast that's included with kits. Is it all the same generic stuff?
If I use a special yeast, should I add the kit one as well? (Eg: Morgans golden sheaf wheat, I used the brew cellar "wheat beer" yeast. Should I add the kit stuff as well?
 
Short answers, it depends and no, don't add both packs.

Long answer, there's a post on here somewhere listing the coopers kit yeasts (on my phone so can't find it atm), other kit brands I can't comment on, but will probably have at least some variation except in the cheapest ones (home brand etc).
Some people add the kit yeast to the end of a boil to use as nutrient for the main yeast, but it's not something I have tried, generally they just stack up in my fridge until I decide to chuck them.
 
I think its fair to say every harvest can have its variables.
I brew a reliable kit brew with the supplied yeast to also recycle the best of the yeast cake. Its always been excellent yeast to recycle.
But I just did the same kit brew like many times before and have gotten an egg smell from the ferment.
This isn't right. It suggests to me there is a lager yeast in there as well or something weird some dickhead mixed the yeasts or something.
Disappointed on something I was confident on etc.

go with your nose etc.
 
>"go with your nose etc"

I'm asking about using kit yeast or not?

Maybe let me clarify.
Does anyone know what type of yeast is used in "Morgans golden sheaf wheat"?
 
I can only add 2 cents but
If it is in a plane white paper satche then I have never used it.
Better to use a reputable brand of yeast. Or try the supplied yeast and test the results is the nature of home brew.
Although I would have low expectations of that supplied unrefrigerated yeast sachet.
You would definitely want to make a starter to up the yeast count.
 
Here's the post on Coopers yeasts.
The following explains the ink-jetted code on the yeast sachets, supplied with each beer kit:

Sachets carry a Julian date code and may also carry letters to denote the type of yeast. For example, if they were packaged on the 25th of September 2007 = 268th day of 2007:

Original Series:- Ac (26807) with the Coopers Original Series – Lager, Draught, Real Ale, Dark Ale, Bitter and Stout will ferment as low as 16c and it produces clean “lager like” characters. But you need to have much higher pitching rates than 7g to 23 litres – more like 1g per litre (about 3 sachets to a 23 litre brew or grow up the 7g culture in a 500ml – 1 litre mini-wort.) At 12c it is most likely to fall out of suspension. Preferred ferment temp 21’c (18-21’c recommended)

International Series:-
Australian Pale Ale - Ac+L (26807 Int) preferred ferment temp 18’c (18-21’c recommended)
Mexican Cerveza - Ac+L (26807 Int) preferred ferment temp 18’c (18-21’c recommended)
European Lager - L (26807 P) preferred ferment temp 13-15’c
Canadian Blonde - Ac (26807) preferred ferment temp 18’c
English Bitter - Ac (26807) preferred ferment temp 18’c

Thomas Coopers Selection:-
Wheat - A (26807 W) preferred ferment temp 24’c
IPA - Ac (26807 IPA) preferred ferment temp 18’c
Irish Stout - A (26807 IS) preferred ferment temp 21’c
Pilsener - L (26807 P) preferred ferment temp 13-15’c
Australian Bitter - Ac+L (26807 PS) preferred ferment temp 13-15’c
Heritage Lager - Ac+L (26807 PS) preferred ferment temp 13-15’c
Sparkling Ale - Ac+L (26807 PS) preferred ferment temp 13-15’c
Traditional Draught - Ac+L (26807 PS) preferred ferment temp 13-15’c

Note:
Ac = Coopers ale yeast (our own strain, not the same as the yeast in our commercial ales, developed in-house and propagated under contract).

A = ale yeast and L = lager yeast (these strains are commercially available dry yeast and their details are held in confidence).
If you plan to ferment at low temperatures you need to increase pitching rates. In most cases, it’s a good idea to start the brew at 22-24’c for the first 12 hrs then draw it down to the low ferment temp. You only need to go down to 13-15’c to get good results with most strains of dry lager yeast.

Morgans is owned by Coopers so I think it would be reasonable to assume that their wheat yeast may be the same.

My personal feeling is that most kit yeasts are not as bad as they are said to be. However the treatment between the factory and you may leave something to be desired and they are usually also the minimum amount.

I usually buy 2 kits the same, rehydrate and prove both sachets then pitch into 1 brew. When that brew is bottled I pitch the second brew onto the yeast cake of the first.
 
Did a Coopers IPA recently. Used two packets of Coopers Ale yeast. Was very surprised how nice the yeast worked and a very neutral flavor as well.
 
As superstock said, not all kit yeast is the same. The yeast and fermenting conditions (primarily the amount of yeast pitched and the fermenting temp) can have a surprising impact on the finished beer. Some beers rely on the yeast to impart certain flavours, and wheat beer is one of them.
There are a number of different wheat yeasts out there in dry form, and many more in liquid form. For a 23l batch you are safe using a single sachet/pack for a kit beer of standard gravity i.e. 5%. I would personally buy a pack with a brand on it unless you home brew store can tell you where it's come from. Do a search on the forum for 'wheat yeast' for some info and discussion on the various types.
For your first go, I would just use the kit yeast unless you're feeling adventurous. In which case is use Wyeast 3068.
 
I used the Brigalow 7g yeast pack from Big-W in an Aussie Pale Ale and I have to say it was a pretty good performer. Suspect that is just the same yeast made by Coopers. Happily use it again.
 
Bradgc said:
I'm asking about using kit yeast or not?

Maybe let me clarify.
Does anyone know what type of yeast is used in "Morgans golden sheaf wheat"?
The kit yeast would be a "Morgans commercial in confidence" yeast, someone else may know more than that.

I looked at a picture of the can and it clearly states "100% malted barley" on the label, so I too would suggest that you use the kit yeast. Maybe experiment and compare a different yeast next time you try it.
 
Most Australian kit yeast comes from Mauri in Toowoomba (who produce masses of yeast for baking and winemaking so they are a substantial company with excellent lab and quality control).
I'd guess that they are also the contractors referred to by Coopers in the earlier post.

Morgans use Mauri yeasts, for example Morgans Blue Mountain Lager comes with the Mauribrew Lager 497.
So I'd venture that the yeast used in the Golden Sheaf Wheat could be Mauribrew Weiss.

Information is on the Mauribrew site.
 
Thanks for all the replies. Very helpful.
Basically I have a few kit yeasts left and wasn't sure to add them when I use the better quality yeasts, or save them for other brews. I think I'll just wait till I have the same type of kit and double up the left over yeast packets that I have
 
Thanks for all the replies. Very helpful.
Basically I have a few kit yeasts left and wasn't sure to add them when I use the better quality yeasts, or save them for other brews. I think I'll just wait till I have the same type of kit and double up the left over yeast packets that I have
 
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