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Kettel hole punches

Discussion in 'Gear and Equipment' started by Bbowzky1, 2/12/18.

 

  1. Bbowzky1

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    Posted 2/12/18
    Hey guys,

    I'm in Melbourne and have a 165lt kettel I need to add 3x 1/2" holes to, plus 2x 48mm holes, for my whirlpool fitting, herms coil and 2" tri-clamp element ferrels.

    Anyone know of a good sheet metal shop in the north that would be able to do this?
    Or better yet any one have the tools they'd be willing to lend out to me for a small fee?

    Cheers guys
     
  2. altone

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    Posted 2/12/18
    Garagebrew likes this.
  3. Bbowzky1

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    Posted 2/12/18
    Yeah I was thinking hole saw. It's a 1.6mm wall ss kettel.

    I'd hate to make a mess of it as it's a $500 pot.

    I was thinking a punch would be best. Ad I cant find a 48mm hole saw, only 45mm and 50mm.
     
  4. altone

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    Posted 2/12/18
    Hole punch might work better but here's a link for a 48mm - plenty more on there
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/48mm-Du...=item1ec7b23cc4:g:cqoAAOSwCRRbJSJU:rk:20:pf:0

    I've cut holes in kegs and thin walled pots and I'm no expert. If you take your time you'll be fine.
     
  5. Bbowzky1

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    Posted 2/12/18
  6. dkril

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    Posted 2/12/18
    Yep. Punch, then pilot hole, then hole saw.

    -- Keep the speed down (for a 48mm holesaw you want 90-100 RPM for cutting stainless). And keep the speed as consistent as you can. A drill press if you have one (and can fit the kettle under it!) is the best solution.
    -- Use cutting fluid -- NOT WD40 or whatever else you have laying around! FWIW Trefolex HD from CRC is what I use.
    -- Remember your safety gear -- we'd hate to hear you couldn't brew with your new kettle because you'd injured yourself.
     
  7. pnorkle

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    Posted 2/12/18
    It works - just keep the drill slow, and use cutting fluid. I used a hole-saw on the side of a commercial keg - it takes a little patience, but if you're careful, you will be able to drill a neat hole.
     
  8. Bbowzky1

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    Posted 2/12/18
    Thanks guys.
    Might have to practice on my old commercial keg till I'm confident.
    No drill press or any fancy tooling unfortunately. Just a hand drill
     
  9. brisie

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    Posted 2/12/18
    Did mine with a hole saw the problem you get it's on a dome so the saw will cut through top bottom but left right you have to shake the drill to cut through. I use the hole saw a couple steps short on the hole size I want and finish the last two steps with a step drill..
     
  10. Bbowzky1

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    Posted 2/12/18
    Yeah that's probably an acceptable way to achieve the smaller holes.
    My biggest concern is with the 2x 48mm holes for my 2" tri clamp ferrels.
    Felling sketchy about it
     
  11. brisie

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    Posted 2/12/18
    Just put 1 1/2 tri clamp ID 35mm Think I ended up stopping at 33mm it's only boil pot mash water pots 220l and 170L I mash in a 200L esky. the insides are a bit messy and need a flapper sand.back one day.
    I use a CIP ball for clean up the 1 1/2 outlet does get congested with water pretty fast so your far better off with the larger hole.
     
    Last edited: 2/12/18
  12. Bbowzky1

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    Posted 2/12/18
    Haha my elements are 5500w 2" tri clamp elements.
    1.5" ferrels arnt an option
     
  13. EmptyB

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    Posted 2/12/18
    Most businesses dealing in steel fabrication and the such are likely to be able to make these holes for you. Just call and ask. The first mob I contacted were happy to get it done, took them 10min and cost me $20. Small price to pay considering how crap you'd feel ruining a $500 kettle
     
    Last edited: 2/12/18
  14. Bbowzky1

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    Posted 2/12/18
    This is great feed back. I was thinking a fabrication joint would charge hundreds.
    I'll make some calls before I buy any tooling.

    You know anyone in Melbourne north
     
  15. EmptyB

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    Posted 2/12/18
    Nah mate, sorry. Not in Melb anyway.
    Some places probably could quote hundreds because that's what they're used to charging commercial clients, it depends on how you sell it when you call. Let them know straight up that you're a home brewer and that you just don't want to risk buggering your kettle. Offering a bottle of your finest in addition always helps drive the bargain home too.
     
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  16. pnorkle

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    Posted 2/12/18
    MTB.. sorry.. EmptyB has a very good point. If you can get it done at a steel fabrication business, saves you buying tools etc, that you'll likely only use once or twice.

    And it'll cost you less.
     
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  17. Meddo

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    Posted 2/12/18
    If you want to tackle it yourself proper punches can be had on eBay - search for "Q.max" punch. These do a much neater job than hole saws, they work out roughly $1 per mm diameter so a bit more expensive but not too bad.
     
  18. wide eyed and legless

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    Posted 2/12/18
    A decent 48 mm tungsten carbide hole saw is going to cost you, they don't come cheap, you would need a decent grade, I would presume the wall thickness would be at least 1,5 mm, ring around some engineering, and as you say sheet metal shops. Geordi Stainless could probably do it but they are in Cheltenham.
     
  19. cat007

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    Posted 2/12/18
    FYI for cutting fluid, a good brand of hair clipper oil is actually an option. Apparently it has the right properties for the task.
    I used it with a stepped drill bit to cut the 4x 1/2" holes in my stainless pots. Worked a charm.
     
  20. cat007

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    Posted 2/12/18
    You could use a knockout punch. Not generally a tool every home gamer has though....
     

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