Kegmenter. Are they good to use?

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Droopy Brew

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I have just picked up a cheap keg and want to get into this pressure fermenting business. I have read most of what I can here but am still a bit undecided how to go about setting it up.

What are thoughts on the best way to set up a keg from scratch for PF? Are there any good products out there that can just clamp onto the 2inch outlet and provide you with a gas and liquid post?
 

pcqypcqy

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Not sure how this would go, you might be cramped for space, but you could get a 2inch end plate, drill some holes in it, grab some threaded bulkhead-type posts and try to build it yourself.

I use the Keg King kegmenter and have had it for a few months now, probably done half a dozen brews with it. Pretty happy with the quality of the keg itself, though the spunding valve is a bit shit, I'd recommend not using the KK version of this.

Or you could import the ones Malt Junkie mentioned, I looked at that style of fitting before I decided to get the KK one. They look good. Cleaning isn't too hard if you use a pump and recirculate for a while.
 

malt junkie

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The better spunding valve here , Norcal's top of the line job also has a thermowell in built(US$124), but you need to add a second valve with a compression fitting, and the spunding valve.

all up still cheaper than a conical :)
 

nosco

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Im going to do as a few others have done or doing. Get the cheap bits from China and makey own. 2" tri clamp and ball valve. Flip it over and cut a hole for a corny lid. I already have some aluminium to make a frame. But considering i just bought a SS Brewbucket it might take a lot more time than originally planned.

1485918354251.jpg
 

nosco

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Ball valve for drawing off yeast. Dip tube for getting beer.
 

sp0rk

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So I take it you run off slowly until you get clear beer coming through?
 

5150

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I have a kegmenter and I also use a regular keg. Both work equally well. Instead of getting the type of conversion spear other are talking about I just use a regular coupler with the 5/8th ball valves on it. I cut about 18mm off the original spear to avoid trub and yeast. I agree that the KK spunding valves aren't the best, although there actually isn't any problem with the valve, I changed the gauge to a decent one. Let me know if you need pics to clarify what I'm talking about.
 

sp0rk

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5150 said:
I have a kegmenter and I also use a regular keg. Both work equally well. Instead of getting the type of conversion spear other are talking about I just use a regular coupler with the 5/8th ball valves on it. I cut about 18mm off the original spear to avoid trub and yeast. I agree that the KK spunding valves aren't the best, although there actually isn't any problem with the valve, I changed the gauge to a decent one. Let me know if you need pics to clarify what I'm talking about.
That'd be great
 

Droopy Brew

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Yeah 5150, pics would be great. The more I can see the better ideas I will come up with.
 

Mardoo

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5150 said:
I agree that the KK spunding valves aren't the best, although there actually isn't any problem with the valve, I changed the gauge to a decent one.
So it's just the gauge that's a problem? I just bought two of their spunding valves yesterday. Other threads have indicated that they're OK if you can work out a process to set them correctly.
 

nosco

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sp0rk said:
So I take it you run off slowly until you get clear beer coming through?
I havnt worked out the process yet. Not sure if I run off the yeast first or run off the beer first. Maybe beer first through the beer post with a picnic tap or something til I get clear beer. That way it wont drop the volume too much.
 

nosco

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5150 said:
Instead of getting the type of conversion spear other are talking about I just use a regular coupler with the 5/8th ball valves on it. I cut about 18mm off the original spear to avoid trub and yeast.
Its looks like Ill have lots of stainless fermenter options very soon :beerbang:
 

5150

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Mardoo said:
So it's just the gauge that's a problem? I just bought two of their spunding valves yesterday. Other threads have indicated that they're OK if you can work out a process to set them correctly.
Yeah, I found the gauge was not very accurate. Setting takes a little to get used to. Easiest way I found way to set off another keg or a PET bottle. In saying this I have accidentally set it too high, checked on it about 18 hours later and the pressure was close to 40psi. I opened it up and set it to about 12psi, fermentation still finished in three days.
 

5150

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Here is a photo of what i use on a standard keg. The coupler is a little bastardised because with the standard handle they don't work on my 20L kegs. I hope it helps.

1485930217758.jpg


1485930237936.jpg
 

pcqypcqy

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5150 said:
I have a kegmenter and I also use a regular keg. Both work equally well. Instead of getting the type of conversion spear other are talking about I just use a regular coupler with the 5/8th ball valves on it. I cut about 18mm off the original spear to avoid trub and yeast. I agree that the KK spunding valves aren't the best, although there actually isn't any problem with the valve, I changed the gauge to a decent one. Let me know if you need pics to clarify what I'm talking about.
I'd politely disagree with the valve being OK. I find that there's a bit of wiggle room between the screw and the body, and wiggling this makes a marked difference in the rate of gas coming out and you can see the gauge start to change if you stand there for a few minutes. I've left it overnight after thinking I've set it (and have watched for a few minutes to check that it's stead), and then see the next morning that it's maxed out onto the pin that stop it moving around again past zero. You then unscrew it by a fraction of a turn, then a few hours later it's down to 10 psi or less.

I think the supplied gauge is OK (though I wouldn't mind a few more psi so I can see where it actually gets to when it maxes out), but I find that screw valve/spring assembly really fiddly.
 

Lager Bloke

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I have just my second pressure ferment about to transfer to keg-only new process for me too.The way I set the pressure on spunding valve was fill vessel with co2 to purge oxygen + increased pressure to check for any leaks (sprayed starsan on edges,welds,etc).Fermenter fully sealed-no leaks,then just backed off spunding valve to 15psi and left it as was then added wort and yeast and into ferment fridge.
The 2nd one I'm about to transfer I'd forgotten that valve was shut to finish off carbonating brew+cold crashing on first batch.For 2 days hadn't seen gauge register any pressure but when I cracked adjuster on valve found that said needle on valve had actually done a full lap of gauge and was fair way into ferment (transferred wort onto yeast cake in vessel).Rob.
 

Maheel

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5150 said:
Here is a photo of what i use on a standard keg. The coupler is a little bastardised because with the standard handle they don't work on my 20L kegs. I hope it helps.
i am using the same set up, works great no drama

i had the coupler sitting around from a bucket of taps etc i bought years ago so made it cheaper for me
 

malt junkie

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If your using standard keg couplers, remember that most of these contain a one way valve that should be removed prior to setting up for pressure fermenting.
 
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