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Yes we do have a mini version of the RAPT chamber in the pipeline. These have been designed so they can double stack too. If everything goes well they will hopefully be finished later this year. They will be substiantially cheaper but will not fit a lot of the taller conical type fermenters.

They will be good for All Rounders up to 60L and also suitable for 27L Fermzilla but some taller ones will not fit. They will also fit Kegmenters and other similar shaped fermenters.

Unlike the current RAPT fermentation chamber they will not have a waste collection container, large colour screen. These things will also reduce the cost.

It will have a 1" screen on the front door and it will also link to the RAPT portal and will have bluetooth bridge functionality.

It's hard to know what the cost will be but we are hoping it will be about $300-$400 but it's better to wait until close to the launch date so we can determine the exact pricing. As always we will do whatever we can to make it sharply priced.
Will they fit 4 corny kegs with spunding valves attached?
 
I have a question relating to the Kegland Sodastream bottle adapter.
I bought one of these a couple of years back, and use it to refill bottles for neighbours and family. I used to get the odd failure - some bottle just wouldn't have a bar (see what I did there?) of it. But overall, I was getting a result. I followed the steps that Kee laid out in his YouTube vid, and things mostly worked.
Lately, however, I just strike out every time. The bottles are nicely cold from my chest freezer, but that's not the issue. They just don't even get started. These are all the newer type of Sodastream recipient bottles, so I barely crack the donor to start. Still nothing. Open a little wider - nada. My donor bottle comes from Gas Guyz (6Kg), and I used to use a Supagas cylinder, but the gas flows from the donor bottle without problems; the problem seems to be more on the recipient side.
I even bought a new adapter in case there was a problem there. Still nothing. I'm now considering buying 6 or so Kegland 60L bottles and splitting the cost with the neighbours, but I need to be sure before I commit that I won't have the same problems.
Any wise words for me?

Yes unfortunately the newer sodastream cylinders are Hader to fill as you have found. If you start the fill very slowly they can work but the issue is the high pressure gas from the large cylinder pushes the pin down too far and prevents the flow of gas. Sodastream are obviously trying harder to stop us refilling their cylinders.

The same issue will not happen with the Kegland ones:
450gram Sodastream Compatible Refillable Gas Cylinder for CO2 or Nitrogen

These are easier to fill and considering they arrive full they are pretty good value.
 
Bump @KegLand-com-au, can you help me out with this one please?

The body of the inline regulator is currently made from POM (Acetal). This is highly chemically resistant already however the gauge itself does have some copper and brass components in it such as the copper capillary tube. If you washed with caustic over and over again you will probably find these soft metal components could cause the gauge itself to fail eventually. It would take some time and the replacement gauges are not expensive as you can see here:

https://www.kegland.com.au/mini-gauge-0-150psi-0-10bar-for-inline-duotight-regulator-or-blowtie.html
 
I have two ssbrewtech brite tanks, currently i serve with glycol chilled python to a flow control tap system on my bench top.

My beer line is balanced, but still have some gas buildup in beer lines between pours, not sure if its due to the lines being out in the open (even though its in python, and foam wrapped), or just some other weird thing due to setup. I have 2, and only seem to get a problem with one. And not always the same one.

Anyway, so i thought of putting the flow control at the start of my beer line via the disconnect, so have a 1.5" tri clover to liquid ball post, coming.
I would need a 90 degree elbow tri clover to bend up, and connect the ball lock here, then the disconnect, and nukatap mini into that or........
No elbow or nukatap mini, and just go from brite-tc ball post-fc disconnect-beer line-benchtop tap.

But i happened to notice your 1.5" tri clover to tap shank so have ordered that and the nukatap fc to see if i can just serve straight from the brite, bypassing the beer line and bench taps altogether. Which would free up a space on my bench to put the cannula.

So to answer your question @KegLand-com-au there is no attachments etc that i can think of, except maybe a tri-clover duotight (although Tri-clover to 1/4" mfl, with 1/4" ffl duotight works fine)

Are you looking at doing a FC nukatap mini also, or just normal one?

Thanks

Bright tanks for home brewers are a product that I have never really understood. Surely its just easier to get a keg and put it in a fridge? The SS brite tanks consume way more power to chill, can be messy with condensation, do not hold as much pressure as a keg and cost a fortune. Also some of the home brew bright tanks have ball valves making them substantially less sanitary than a keg. On top of all this the penetrations through the bright tank act like big heat sinks and cause more movement and convection currents to happen in the tank and thus yeast doesn't settle as fast as a keg.

Also if you are going to spend that amount of money on a tank you should at least get a uni-tank so it can be a fermenter and bright tank 2in1. That is my 2 cents and maybe I am wrong and other customers really love bright tanks. I am not sure.

Anyway, sorry to digress. To answer our question we do not have plans to make a Nukatap Mini with FC but we have done a lot of testing with the Nukatap Mini and the FC ball lock disconnect and this combination works quite well. As this combination works we do not see an immediate need to make a nukatap mini with FC. This is probably the combination that I would recommend.

If you are using a ball lock post it's worth taking this apart and then cleaning inside. It's quite common for hops to get stuck in the poppet and this can also cause a lot of foaming.

The 1.5" TC to tap shank is a not a bad way to go but bear in mind this sticks out of the tank and so does the tap. The liquid volume of the shank is considerable and the standard Nukatap FC is a full size tap. You will get foam in the beginning but once you pour enough beer through the shank and tap to cool the tap body down you will get a good pour. With the Nukatap Mini it has way less thermal mass and will will have less "first pour foam" for this reason. The body of the Nukatap mini is also made of POK and Santoprene. Both materials are substantially better insulators than stainless steel. I know some people do not like the idea of pouring from plastic but it actually works better to be honest.

In installed the Nukatap mini to my RAPT fermentation chamber and it pours great with no foam even on the first pour.
 

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Unlike almost every cars speedo which seems to be reporting high (tricking drivers into driving slower) the KL grain weight tends to be on par or better. I'd rather have a little extra than ever be under. It's not like a butcher where you end up paying more when they sneak more than you order on the scales.

Rather, I have never seen KegLand make grain bills underweight. It seems they prefer to err on the side of full flavoured beer and happiness. ~Tips hat to KegLand. If there's a little extra thrown in, its free, and I'm always happy to mash it. I'm only talking about 50g or less. Please don't change, it's a feature not a bug! I can always drop a little hops earlier into the boil to balance maltiness or add a bit more later if worried.

If you really want to have total control one can order each part of your grain-bill separately, and weigh at home which perhaps some competition brewers do. But if you use the same system each time, it's perfectly repeatable.
 
All the tooling is complete. The 55L model will probably come into stock in about 2 months and the 27L model will be more like 3-4 months away.

The parts are backwards compatible with the current fermzilla tri-conical gen 3 so you have to purchase a 3" x 3" butterfly and then the new collection container.

With this last change I would say we are unlikely to make any other upgrades to the fermzilla after this collection container upgrade. It's getting increasingly difficult to look for areas to improve this fermentation vessel so I think we are reaching the peak of what we can achieve to be honest.
Sweet. Are you going to sell just the collection container when the 55litre comes into Australia?
 
Unlike almost every cars speedo which seems to be reporting high (tricking drivers into driving slower) the KL grain weight tends to be on par or better. I'd rather have a little extra than ever be under. It's not like a butcher where you end up paying more when they sneak more than you order on the scales.

Rather, I have never seen KegLand make grain bills underweight. It seems they prefer to err on the side of full flavoured beer and happiness. ~Tips hat to KegLand. If there's a little extra thrown in, its free, and I'm always happy to mash it. I'm only talking about 50g or less. Please don't change, it's a feature not a bug! I can always drop a little hops earlier into the boil to balance maltiness or add a bit more later if worried.

If you really want to have total control one can order each part of your grain-bill separately, and weigh at home which perhaps some competition brewers do. But if you use the same system each time, it's perfectly repeatable.

Thanks for that. Much appreciated. We have done a lot of work to automate the weighing of grains to be honest so it's great that this is paying off.
 
We only have the 19L bladders in the pipeline at the moment. If the 19L bladders are successful we will then look to make other sizes down the track.

I really like the 2L kegs and much prefer them to the other mini kegs that we have. They are a bit more expensive to manufacture but a more compact and handy size to fit into an esky.

As the 2L kegs use the same ball lock keg lid size as the 19L kegs you could use the same bladder and reduce the size of the bladder with a standard heat sealer. So if you were really desperate you could do this at home yourselves. At least until we start manufacturing other sized bladders for you.
Is there a time frame on the 19L bladders?
 
Is there a time frame on the 19L bladders?

We have put this on the back burner for the moment as we just did not feel that the solution was reliable enough for us to proceed. It was easy to burst the bladders if customers were to overfill them or over-pressurise them so we are concerned about selling a product like this unless it's possible for us to make a solution that is more robust.
 
Yes this is almost finished. The lid was a bit too tight fitting and was a bit difficult to push in and out of the fermenter. As a result we are making a new injection mold for the lid seal. I think this new injection mold will be finished in about 3-4 weeks and after this we will hopefully finish the final testing on the unit. Based on this the release date will probably be about May.
Very excited for this. Any update on the shape / size? I would love to be able to trub dump, move to the keezer, and serve directly out of it - similar to the Williamswarn Brewkegs but with a TC port for a hop bong.

@KegLand-com-au
 
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Anyone got any advice on fitting a thermowell to the Fermzilla Gen 3 Tri clover lid?
It doesn’t look like there is enough room for the retaining nut to fit without fouling the sides of the lid. I don’t want to drill it out using the dimple underneath as the guide as it appears to be off centre !
 
Very excited for this. Any update on the shape / size? I would love to be able to trub dump, move to the keezer, and serve directly out of it - similar to the Williamswarn Brewkegs but with a TC port for a hop bong.

@KegLand-com-au

The Fermzilla SS is on track. We will release more information during the product launch. Yes you will be able to dump trub, move to the keezer and serve directly from it. The FermZilla SS including stainless stand will be about 970mm high and if you want to fit ball lock posts and disconnects ontop you probably want to allow another 90mm so the total height. Alternatively after you are finished using the collection container you can remove this, flip the unit upside down and then put into your Keezer. The height in this case would be 650mm.

The footprint will be about 450mm diameter.
 
Anyone got any advice on fitting a thermowell to the Fermzilla Gen 3 Tri clover lid?
It doesn’t look like there is enough room for the retaining nut to fit without fouling the sides of the lid. I don’t want to drill it out using the dimple underneath as the guide as it appears to be off centre !

The thermowell will fit here:
1677633383894.png


The thermowell does enter at a slight angle and this is how it's designed. I know it's a snug fit but it does work:
1677633464137.png


With that said I really think the best solution is to use the pill hydrometer and then use the pill hydrometer to control your heating and cooling device. This solution works really well and eliminates the need for the thermowell all together.
 
Also this is what the nut looks like after you install it:
 

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Would there be any idea when these become available again?
1-4-inch-stainless-steel-prv-seat-suits-mini-keg-tapping-kits.
 
Would there be any idea when these become available again?
1-4-inch-stainless-steel-prv-seat-suits-mini-keg-tapping-kits.

We have discontinued offering this as a spare part as it's extremly rare for it to be required.

What is your application?
 
We have discontinued offering this as a spare part as it's extremly rare for it to be required.

What is your application?
I’ve got a ss fermenter tri top with a 1/4” T one for gas and one for the prv. I wanted 2 (1 for the fermenter & 1 spare). I wanted these as they take the standard PRV as widely used in the plastic fermenters
 
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