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Can anyone advise what size bolts are used to hold the castors on Series X Plus kegerators? I have ordered the bare "fridge only" model (KL19873) which I understand comes with no castors, so I don't like my chances of using existing bolts to attach the 100mm wheels :)
 
@KegLand-com-au I'm happy to see that the documentation for your upcoming API is there on the RAPT API site, but I notice that the server gives no responses - I presume the build is not yet finished - is there any update on when the API will be operational, I really look forward to auto-mangling my rapt data?
 

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Can anyone advise what size bolts are used to hold the castors on Series X Plus kegerators? I have ordered the bare "fridge only" model (KL19873) which I understand comes with no castors, so I don't like my chances of using existing bolts to attach the 100mm wheels :)
The castors came with my Series X Plus ordered a few months ago.
 
@KegLand-com-au - Is the redesigned two stage oversized malt pipe for the Gen 4 backwards compatible to fit/use with older Robobrews/Brewzillas of the same size/capacity? (Thank You).
 
I got a new SeriesX 4 tap kegerator and even at -5 it doesn't freeze water. It gets cold enough to drink beer, but temperature control is far from ideal and far from being cold enough.
Kegerator is inside my living room at roughly 23C.
Any way of fixing this?
 
I got a new SeriesX 4 tap kegerator and even at -5 it doesn't freeze water. It gets cold enough to drink beer, but temperature control is far from ideal and far from being cold enough.
Kegerator is inside my living room at roughly 23C.
Any way of fixing this?
Is that -5°C displayed on the controller, or measured with a separate thermometer?

Could be the temperature controoler on the fridge needs recalibrating (not sure if that's DIY-able).
 
Bump please. Trying to figure out the best way fit a tap (not a picnic tap) directly to this FC disconnect. I have a spare MFL tap shank disconnect adapter, but not sure that helps as I would need to go from hard push-on to MFL? (not even sure that exists)

Not sure you really want to do this?

Kind of implicit in the design is the fact that there is tubing with head pressure and an ability to remedy any turbulence. And with the MFL to tap adapter, you have a solid metal to metal connection, that won't move as you move the tap handle. With duotight, you're basically attaching a tap by two o-rings - pull on the tap, pull on the capture ring and o-rings. It will move around quite a lot.

Now assuming you want to try anyway...

I assume you could go with the 6.5mm version of the new flow control disconnects, when they come out (8mm linked *):
https://www.kegland.com.au/duotight...-lock-disconnect-liquid-black-yellow-pok.html
And plug one of these tap shank's straight in:
https://www.kegland.com.au/nukatap -duotight-compatible-ss-short-shank.html
With the elbow being horizontal, you can then connect a tap in a very compact little setup - though not that pretty 😃
 
Not sure you really want to do this?

All I'm hoping to achieve is a compact, portable pouring system that can attach directly to the keg post. I regularly take kegs out and about and currently use a pluto gun with beer line. I'd love to have a tap attached directly to FC disconnect. Not interested in the FC taps (In my view the they're far inferior to the FC disconnect).
 
I got a new SeriesX 4 tap kegerator and even at -5 it doesn't freeze water. It gets cold enough to drink beer, but temperature control is far from ideal and far from being cold enough.
Kegerator is inside my living room at roughly 23C.
Any way of fixing this?
Can you leave the water on there overnight and then check with a separate thermometer? I'm curious how far off it might be.
 
I guess I'm wondering why the Monotight product range exists when Kegland are all about the Duotight? And when it's back in stock :)
Some connectors (like 6.35mm to 6.35mm) simply aren't available in Duotight. Maybe they want to run out stock first?
 
Kegland have only recently introduced 1/4" tubing to their product range. So supporting it in the duotight range wasn't a priority.

If there's sufficient demand, I imagine they will do so in the future.
 
Thanks, 2 questions:
1) what's the difference between Monotight and Duotight? All the other reducers and joiners seem to come in the Duotight offering except this particular one?
2) when will this fitting be back in stock?

1. The monotight fittings were made before we started to make the Duotight fittings. The only difference is that the Monotight ones have the singular o-ring. So they are not quite as good as the duotight fittings but no worse than many of the other push in fittings that are commonly sold in the marketplace.
2. As this is a relatively low turnover fitting we do not have a specific date when this fitting will be upgraded to Duotight yet.
 
Bump please. Trying to figure out the best way fit a tap (not a picnic tap) directly to this FC disconnect. I have a spare MFL tap shank disconnect adapter, but not sure that helps as I would need to go from hard push-on to MFL? (not even sure that exists)

It's quite coincidental that you are mentioning this right now. We are litterally pushing the button on new tooling now. Hopefully by the second half of this year we will have a new Nukatap Mini.

This new Nukatap Mini will be half the size of a standard beer tap so it will suit smaller portable systems really well. It's also forward sealing and uses similar technology to the standard Nukatap. It will have a shank that fits directly into the FC ball lock disconnect and also can be fitted with a long shank that goes through a fridge door or esky wall. Is there any chance you can wait for a few months and we will have a great solution for you.
 
Can anyone advise what size bolts are used to hold the castors on Series X Plus kegerators? I have ordered the bare "fridge only" model (KL19873) which I understand comes with no castors, so I don't like my chances of using existing bolts to attach the 100mm wheels :)

This is an M5 thread on these. Alternatively if you purchase these self tapping tek screws and just drill new holes this works too:
https://www.bunnings.com.au/zenith-...oWsEgZQqP2akAZePYuxoCWNoQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
@KegLand-com-au I'm happy to see that the documentation for your upcoming API is there on the RAPT API site, but I notice that the server gives no responses - I presume the build is not yet finished - is there any update on when the API will be operational, I really look forward to auto-mangling my rapt data?


We have been very surprised how quickly people have jumped on this API. Within 24hrs we had several customers now make their own devices to use the API so good to see you guys are taking advantage of this. If you guys come up with particularly cool stuff that other customers might be interested in can you post in the RAPT users group here:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/raptusersgroup

Also if you have a RAPT related API issue if you post here that would be best so we can respond to this type of enquiry where other people can also see the response.
 
Kegland have only recently introduced 1/4" tubing to their product range. So supporting it in the duotight range wasn't a priority.

If there's sufficient demand, I imagine they will do so in the future.


Yes that is excactly right. We will probably come back to all the 1/4inch monotight fittings and upgrade these to duotight fittings at some stage. It's just a lot of tooling cost so we are hoping to get up to higher sales volumes of the 1/4 ones before we spend the money on more tooling. As you can imagine we already have quite high tooling expenditure on all the new products we are making. We have to prioritise our budget sometimes.
 
@KegLand-com-au - Is the redesigned two stage oversized malt pipe for the Gen 4 backwards compatible to fit/use with older Robobrews/Brewzillas of the same size/capacity? (Thank You).

I checked the measurements on new oversized malt pipe, and it looks like it would physically fit in older generations (at least the 3.1.1 I had onhand to measure), BUT it would sit REALLY low and require some type of work around for the second bottom screen. I think you could physically get it to work, but I suspect the lack of space between the bottom of the malt pipe and heating elements would mess up the heat distribution and liquid recirculation, causing any number of unwanted problems.

I would love to be pleasantly surprised and be able to use the new malt pipe to get bigger grain bills into my 3.1.1, but looking unlikely.
 
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I checked the measurements on new oversized malt pipe, and it looks like it would physically fit in older generations (at least the 3.1.1 I had onhand to measure), BUT it would sit REALLY low and require some type of work around for the second bottom screen. I think you could physically get it to work, but I suspect the lack of space between the bottom of the malt pipe and heating elements would mess up the heat distribution and liquid recirculation, causing any number of unwanted problems.

I would love to be pleasantly surprised and be able to use the new malt pipe to get bigger grain bills into my 3.1.1, but looking unlikely.

As long as you have 10mm gap between the bottom of the malt pipt this is sufficient. We have been testing this quite a bit recently on the BrewZilla Gen 4 and one thing that we wated to achieve is a larger malt pipe so we have now made the bottom false bottom screen lower and also made the standard malt pipe longer and get much closer to this false bottom screen. So now the BrewZilla gen 4 has a malt pipe that is a few litres larger than the older BrewZilla Gen 3 malt pipe.
 
I got a new SeriesX 4 tap kegerator and even at -5 it doesn't freeze water. It gets cold enough to drink beer, but temperature control is far from ideal and far from being cold enough.
Kegerator is inside my living room at roughly 23C.
Any way of fixing this?

That sounds a bit strange. You should definitely be able to freez water in the Series X. Do you have the kegerator mounted under bench or is it free standing? Also do you have any ice build up on the chill plate at the back of the fridge? Is your fan turned on so the fans on all the time?
 
It's standing on the floor at an angle with the corner of the room, so there's a lot of space on the back and on both sides of the unit. There is zero ice build up anywhere.

I'll do as suggested above and leave a glass of water in there for a few hours and use a probe to measure the temperature.

Cheers
 
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