I think you might be confusing Speedgas with someone else. Speedgas in Brookvale, NSW will fill any legal CO2 bottle that is in good condition. They certainly fill aluminium "My Keg On Legs" bottles and steel KegLand/KegKing bottles. They will inspect (but not certify) the bottle and valve as part of the service to ensure that their staff and customers are safe. All done while you wait.
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KegLand Questions and Answers
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@KegLand-com-au Do you have any updates on the cryo hops? I've heard rumours Bintani are not making these available to homebrewers this year...
Thomas Wood
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately they're a long drive for me. I called the Newcastle branch and they can't fill on site. They ship to the Sydney one for filling.
Both the Newcastle and East Maitland LHBS won't refill Kegland either. Maitland said they only deal with Keg King and that it "was complicated". What a joke! They won't ever be getting anything from me in the future. Everywhere else is closed as well.
None of the "Country Brewer" franchises will fill Kegland. I reckon this is a really good business decision. right up there with "let's fill this dirty great balloon made of super flammable material with hydrogen gas".
Kenf
Well-Known Member
Um that’s not exactly true - I know of at least one!
Their main issue was the the RPV’s being faulty, two issues one that it makes people think the cylinder is empty & when the person filling goes to take the valve out - it shoots across the room and two in my case faulty O rings which mean the valve is not doing it’s job!
I notice now KL sells replacement RPV’s - I got mine replaced for free!
Afterall it is a pressure vessel and should not be faulty from new!
I spoke to Kee about this (& the reseller who I actually got the cylinder from!). They both apologised & Kee fixed the problem!
But it does highlight the dangers of buying stuff from a country that manufactures to a price - not a standard! It also means that government certification is a total waste of time!
Cheers
Their main issue was the the RPV’s being faulty, two issues one that it makes people think the cylinder is empty & when the person filling goes to take the valve out - it shoots across the room and two in my case faulty O rings which mean the valve is not doing it’s job!
I notice now KL sells replacement RPV’s - I got mine replaced for free!
Afterall it is a pressure vessel and should not be faulty from new!
I spoke to Kee about this (& the reseller who I actually got the cylinder from!). They both apologised & Kee fixed the problem!
But it does highlight the dangers of buying stuff from a country that manufactures to a price - not a standard! It also means that government certification is a total waste of time!
Cheers
I offer my apologies then. I should have said, Of all the ones I have tried, and I did cart one around with me for a while and tried about four or five, and received the same response.
As for the rest of your post, I agree wholeheartedly.
As for the rest of your post, I agree wholeheartedly.
Thomas Wood
Well-Known Member
I didn't even realise this was a thing but it makes sense as I managed to drive down and see Brewman and he filled up my cylinder for me... Right after he threw my RPV in the bin because it flew out of his garage! I'll be emailing Kegland this week to sort out a new one.
billygoat
Well-Known Member
Had the same problem with the RPV on my new KL CO2 bottle. Thought l must have been unlucky. Couldn’t get any gas out but l knew it wasn’t empty. Took it to my normal refiller who took the RPV out, pulled it apart, think he may have replaced an O ring. Has been fine ever since. Didn’t charge me either.
Obviously a common problem.
Obviously a common problem.
Try Brewman I think he refills
FarsideOfCrazy
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Hi kegland. I see the flow control disconnects are already sold out. Any idea when they'll bee back in stock?
Hi Kegland,
I have a question about using the Icemaster G40 chillers pretty much exclusively for fermenters (and perhaps chilled fonts as a bonus), rather than mainly for chilling warm beer as intended. I have an Ss Brewtech Unitank and have ordered the FTSs kit, but I've now discovered I fundamentally mis-understood the difference between using the FTSs kit with the their glycol chiller vs the Icemaster chiller. While doing some research I came across how the Icemaster 100's are produced and sold in the US (example https://www.morebeer.com/products/icemaster-100-glycol-chiller-stainless-bulkheads.html) and now I'm wondering if it would be possible to adapt the G40 to operate in a similar manner?
As I'd initially only be using it to chill one fermeter, the easiest option would be if it's possible to squeeze the FTSs submersible pump down into the reservoir and run the coolant lines and power cable through the hole at the top of the unit (the hole for the agitator power cable), but it's hard to tell from pictures how much room there is in there. The other option, considering I'd be willing to forgo ever being able to chill beer, is to cut two or more of the eight "beer in/out" lines (one in, one out) and run hose off those to a submersible pump and return line straight back onto the tank (as described in the MoreBeer ad). The agitator pump may or may not be able to stay in place, but may not be needed anyway.
Anyway, hopefully that all makes sense? I'm really looking for ways to make my situation work, but sometimes I miss something important, so this might not be possible. I'd be interested to hear any other suggestions you have that might work with the equipment I have (Unitank with FTSs kit). I'll probably end up calling to discuss in more detail, but thought it might be worth posting here as well in case it helps someone else in a similar situation.
Thanks,
Steve
I have a question about using the Icemaster G40 chillers pretty much exclusively for fermenters (and perhaps chilled fonts as a bonus), rather than mainly for chilling warm beer as intended. I have an Ss Brewtech Unitank and have ordered the FTSs kit, but I've now discovered I fundamentally mis-understood the difference between using the FTSs kit with the their glycol chiller vs the Icemaster chiller. While doing some research I came across how the Icemaster 100's are produced and sold in the US (example https://www.morebeer.com/products/icemaster-100-glycol-chiller-stainless-bulkheads.html) and now I'm wondering if it would be possible to adapt the G40 to operate in a similar manner?
As I'd initially only be using it to chill one fermeter, the easiest option would be if it's possible to squeeze the FTSs submersible pump down into the reservoir and run the coolant lines and power cable through the hole at the top of the unit (the hole for the agitator power cable), but it's hard to tell from pictures how much room there is in there. The other option, considering I'd be willing to forgo ever being able to chill beer, is to cut two or more of the eight "beer in/out" lines (one in, one out) and run hose off those to a submersible pump and return line straight back onto the tank (as described in the MoreBeer ad). The agitator pump may or may not be able to stay in place, but may not be needed anyway.
Anyway, hopefully that all makes sense? I'm really looking for ways to make my situation work, but sometimes I miss something important, so this might not be possible. I'd be interested to hear any other suggestions you have that might work with the equipment I have (Unitank with FTSs kit). I'll probably end up calling to discuss in more detail, but thought it might be worth posting here as well in case it helps someone else in a similar situation.
Thanks,
Steve
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There's a drainage port on the back where you could hook up an external pump to. Drain the glycol from the bottom of the tank, through your pump and chilling coil and then back into the tank through the glycol inlet (not the beer lines). That's how I saw it anyway. On top of that all you would need is the inkbird 308 and a heat mat which would save a lot on the ss option. The nice conical shaped heat pad is cool though.
Yeah I kinda get how the workaround for fermenters is supposed to work, but I already have the FTSs kit coming, and then I'd also wonder how multiple fermenters would work down the track. Belgrave Brewer has a great looking solution here which I considered, but I'm looking for something a bit simpler for now. I also got the FTSs at a great price due to some reward points I had built up with Newera Brewing from initial Unitank purchase, so given that it's a complete heating/chilling solution designed specifically for the Unitank it seemed like a good option...
Thanks for the suggestion though
Thanks for the suggestion though
Yeah I kinda get how the workaround for fermenters is supposed to work, but I already have the FTSs kit coming, and then I'd also wonder how multiple fermenters would work down the track. Belgrave Brewer has a great looking solution here which I considered, but I'm looking for something a bit simpler for now. I also got the FTSs at a great price due to some reward points I had built up with Newera Brewing from initial Unitank purchase, so given that it's a complete heating/chilling solution designed specifically for the Unitank it seemed like a good option...
Thanks for the suggestion though
Gotcha. I suppose you could drill some holes in the lid and fit barbed bulkhead fittings like the ssbrewtech glycol chiller and use a submersible pump assuming it fits inside?
Yeah that's pretty much the idea. I figure the existing beer lines are just hollow pipes, so if they were lopped off, leaving an inch or so inside the chiller, that would make 'bulkheads' to attach coolant hoses to pretty much exactly how the MoreBeer 100's are configured to be more suitable for muliple fermenters.
Maybe Kegland can provide a few pics so we can see how much space is available. I also have the FTSs setup, and would like to keep things simple and use the submersible pump with the G40. I really don't want to go down the track of another pump, when I have a perfectly good one available. I also want to keep it tidy, and having an external pump is not ideal
Rather than cutting the beer lines as I previously suggested, it would be better (if possible) to just take two or more (one in, one out) of the beer lines out completely and swap them over to be the same bulkheads as is already on the Water In/Out lines. Going by the pictures, it looks like the beer lines may come out reasonably easy. That way there would still be the option to use it as a beer chiller down the track if desired by re-installing the beer lines. Unless I'm mistaken, that would then make this chiller pretty much the same as the MoreBeer version, and more suitable for fermenters which is is apparently the reason Kegland are selling so many units lately. Compatible replacement bulkheads could be sold as an optional extra "conversion kit".
Engibeer
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The Duotight flow stopper - automatic keg filler doesn't stop the flow properly against ~15psi - it just keeps on leaking.
https://www.kegland.com.au/duotight-flow-stopper.html
First time I did a pressurised transfer I had the spunding valve cracked so that the sound was audible and after the keg filled it just kept on leaking.
I'm not sure whether it's because the float ball I received has some burrs on it?
The main reason that I purchased this is so that I can fill kegs unattended while I'm spending time with the kids!
I subsequently tested it with a PET bottle.
The only way that I can get it to seal upon filling is if I use the spunding valve and turn it way, way down so you can only just hear it during the transfer.
https://www.kegland.com.au/duotight-flow-stopper.html
First time I did a pressurised transfer I had the spunding valve cracked so that the sound was audible and after the keg filled it just kept on leaking.
I'm not sure whether it's because the float ball I received has some burrs on it?
The main reason that I purchased this is so that I can fill kegs unattended while I'm spending time with the kids!
I subsequently tested it with a PET bottle.
The only way that I can get it to seal upon filling is if I use the spunding valve and turn it way, way down so you can only just hear it during the transfer.
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malt and barley blues
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Same as mine, gone back to transfer in the usual manner, but I don't have kids to entertain.
This is something we are looking into at the moment but have not made a decision yet. Will be able to get back to you shortly on this one. Once we have some more information we will update this part of the website:
https://www.kegland.com.au/ingredients/hops/cyro-hops.html
The float needs to be clean and without burrs on it. Can you please email us some photos of the ball and the setup. From the image attached it looks like you have it attached to a PET bottle. Not sure how this is working. You need to have enough pressure being applied to the tank/bottle so that the pressure pushed the ball up and stops the flow.
We have not heard of any issues with this device and I still use this device quite a lot myself. I generally fill the first part of the keg under some pressure. Once I have about 1-2 liters of beer in the keg. If I do this while the keg has some head pressure then this will prevent beer splashing and foaming up as i continue to fill. After I have about 1.5liters of beer in the keg I open the pressure release valve and the keg fills perfectly every time.
Thanks for that. We do make these for More Beer at the moment and we customise them in this way but we have not started customising the chillers for the Australian market.
To be honest we still believe that on a small scale you are better off having a fermenting fridge rather than glycol chilled fermenter.
I don't have any photos handy but next time we have one opened up we will take some photos and post them up on the website for you. You certainly will have enough space for a small 12v submersible pump or a few of them for that matter but having the pumps external to the unit will be more energy efficient and also will give you more cooling capacity overall.
The stainless coils are fairly easy to remove. You just need a phillips head screw driver so you take the top cover off the tank, then remove the line glands that hold the stainless steel coils into the side of the unit. Then remove the plastic frames that hold the cooling coils and within about 10 minutes you will have all the stainless coils removed. Putting them back in again will take you about 20-30mins.
Yes it might eventually be worth us making a video on this particular topic and showing customers how they can modify the G40 specifically for fermenters. We probably need to start stocking some small 12v pumps for this application.
We should have the website updated with the next shipment date in 1 week. We are just trying to work out which container to bring them in on at the moment. We will put a date on the website soon here:
https://www.kegland.com.au/flow-control-ball-lock-disconnect-flow-restrictor.html
I would keep an eye on this part of our website. We are updating this page frequently and we are constantly adding new filling sites to this map.
https://www.kegland.com.au/distributor/
This problem has well and truly been resolved. We had a number of cylinders in the first batch where the PRV valves were not working correctly and they were holding too much residual pressure behind them. You might find a lot of the older cylinders did not hold any residual pressure behind them making the RPV useless. The new model RPV valves are significantly more reliable. If you ever hear of any refill station that comes across an RPV valve that is not working correctly ask them to contact us and we will send out some free replacements to them.
The new model RPV valves can be signified by the score mark on the face of the RPV. See image here:
https://www.kegland.com.au/media/ca...9034_-_replacement_rpv_for_cylinder_valve.jpg
As you can see from the photo the new models has a small score around the hex hole in the middle of the RPV.
@KegLand-com-au I've now done 9 brew days on the Robobrew 65L and overall am quite happy with the unit.
One thing I have noticed is that the bottom screen and malt pipe screens both catch and scratch the outer cylinder when being inserted/removed. Although they seem to work well, and I haven't had issues with sediment escaping, they would be better with a silicon o-ring or some sort of other buffer to avoid scratching. When time permits I'll probably make one out of a silicon cutting mat.
Also, the top screen for the malt pipe doesn't really have anywhere to sit on the centre tube, and for thin mashes I've found it doesn't want to sit above the grain when recirculating - it starts to dig in. Again, a silicon o-ring will fix this by giving some resistance.
From an improvement perspective, I'd also like to see a sight glass, especially for checking the liquid level when the malt pipe is inserted or during the lift. Perhaps this could be included as a modular replacement/improvement for the pump return tube. Otherwise it would be straightforward to add one 90deg clockwise of that, which would give the added bonus of being able to use the stamped volume markings as a reference from the outside too.
One thing I have noticed is that the bottom screen and malt pipe screens both catch and scratch the outer cylinder when being inserted/removed. Although they seem to work well, and I haven't had issues with sediment escaping, they would be better with a silicon o-ring or some sort of other buffer to avoid scratching. When time permits I'll probably make one out of a silicon cutting mat.
Also, the top screen for the malt pipe doesn't really have anywhere to sit on the centre tube, and for thin mashes I've found it doesn't want to sit above the grain when recirculating - it starts to dig in. Again, a silicon o-ring will fix this by giving some resistance.
From an improvement perspective, I'd also like to see a sight glass, especially for checking the liquid level when the malt pipe is inserted or during the lift. Perhaps this could be included as a modular replacement/improvement for the pump return tube. Otherwise it would be straightforward to add one 90deg clockwise of that, which would give the added bonus of being able to use the stamped volume markings as a reference from the outside too.
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