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Kegland. Is there any plan to upgrade the G20 Glycol chiller to interface with the RAPT platform? The RAPT chamber is far far too large for me to be able to justify / fit anywhere and I belive there is a hole in the market for a good value and well sized smart glycol system for all those connicals that are just too large to fit in smaller bar fridges.
Thinking about it BAA, are you just chasing telemetry or full control via the Rapt controller?
 

donald_trub

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Hey KL, I've got a product idea that sounds easy and might slip in pretty easily to your portfolio. I'd like an outdoor LPG wok burner for cranking out good stir fries as hot as possible. Kenji has a great video where he tests a few and makes a few recommendations (his conclusion is more BTUs doesn't mean better). Unfortunately his recommendations aren't available here and I believe they've sold out in the states thanks to him. Video is here -

They're not too different to a brewing setup, so maybe there's some double up.
 

S.E

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Hey KL, I've got a product idea that sounds easy and might slip in pretty easily to your portfolio. I'd like an outdoor LPG wok burner for cranking out good stir fries as hot as possible. Kenji has a great video where he tests a few and makes a few recommendations (his conclusion is more BTUs doesn't mean better). Unfortunately his recommendations aren't available here and I believe they've sold out in the states thanks to him. Video is here -

They're not too different to a brewing setup, so maybe there's some double up.

I have been using one like he recommends since about 1995. I bought it in Hong Kong and it was my outdoor wok burner when I lived there. I also used it for a few years in the UK as an outdoor wok burner. For the past 15 years it has been my main brewery burner here in Australia and lived outdoors for about 5 years.

As he said they go rusty pretty quick (on the surface) when used outdoors but that doesn’t seem to affect their use for quite a while. My original one only rusted though and broke at the joint earlier this year. Luckily I had a spare one that I bought a few years ago as a backup. They are great for both wok cooking and brewing.
 

huez

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Hey KL, I've got a product idea that sounds easy and might slip in pretty easily to your portfolio. I'd like an outdoor LPG wok burner for cranking out good stir fries as hot as possible. Kenji has a great video where he tests a few and makes a few recommendations (his conclusion is more BTUs doesn't mean better). Unfortunately his recommendations aren't available here and I believe they've sold out in the states thanks to him. Video is here -

They're not too different to a brewing setup, so maybe there's some double up.

You can get the rambo wok burner off ebay. Not particularly cheap but mine is still going strong after like 8 years. Looks similar to the one in the video except no pilot light, piezo ignition though
 

donald_trub

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You can get the rambo wok burner off ebay. Not particularly cheap but mine is still going strong after like 8 years. Looks similar to the one in the video except no pilot light, piezo ignition though
Thanks for that, I'll start researching rambos!
 

S.E

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Might be worth while looking on Hong Kong ebay, they are very cheap in HK. Just a simple cheap commercial burner, not called Rambos there though. There is an English HK ebay.
 

KegLand-com-au

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Its an interesting problem, I'm about to order the F150 unitank, the heating is sorted and I need to get the G20 to connect to the Brewtools heating element.
At this point I am hoping to use the G20's bypass circuit which is suppose to be for this purpose. A good bloke at Kegland pointed me to the instructions.

Getting the telemetry to the Rapt Cloud interface would be nice, or even better having the Rapt controller connecting/managing the heating and cooling options for the fermenter would be great.

Down the track I will probably add a thermowell into the unitank and use the Rapt controller temp probe as pure telemetry.

For now though I'm happy for them to continue work on the Rapt interface.

In the future I think the best way to do this is to leave the G20 as a relatively "dumb" device but use additional temp controllers that control a valve to allow the glycol to flow to the tank and then use the AC heating outlet to control heating to the tank.

So in other works each time you add on another fermenter you add on another temp controller box kit with valve.

We have been working on some new glycol control valves that will take a PWM signal so what we will probably do is sell it as a kit so the RAPT temp controller box has not cooling output but just has a cord where the blue cooling socket is normally located and this cord plugs into the PWM controlled valve. What do you guys think of this option?

Having a PID cooling function is also probably a good idea so the PWM controlled valve can move from 0-100% open based on the PID settings and temperature etc.

In some home brew applications PID is a bit of a waste of time but with glycol cooling it's often the case that you overshoot the mark so I think PID in this type of application is not a bad idea.

Keen to get your thoughts on this guys.
 

KegLand-com-au

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Still on track?

Sorry it's taken a bit longer. We are mostly finished but the ongoing lockdowns in China have been slowing the process down quite a bit. We are still waiting on parts and tooling to get completed.
 

Its_damo_t

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Anyone tried using the hop bong to inline carbonate soda water? Thinking of using one with a keg to have both chilled water and soda water on tap using only a single keg.
 

sp0rk

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Anyone tried using the hop bong to inline carbonate soda water? Thinking of using one with a keg to have both chilled water and soda water on tap using only a single keg.
unless you're using a pump to shift the water, dispensing with CO2 will carbonate your water no matter how low your pressure is
I've chased that dragon and there's no solution
I ended up going back to just soda water on tap because the pump was a huge pain
 

KegLand-com-au

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Anyone tried using the hop bong to inline carbonate soda water? Thinking of using one with a keg to have both chilled water and soda water on tap using only a single keg.

If you want high carbonation levels and you can't afford a benchy sparkling I really think this soda reactor lid is the way to go.

The soda reactory lid works really well and it's a more reliable option than trying to use the hop bong. Also the hop bong is really too small so the amount of soda carbonated in the tube is quite limiting. Although it can be done we have far better options than this.
 

KegLand-com-au

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Hey guys.... any additional information regarding the timing of the 100L Brewzilla?

We will have the first of these arrive just after Christmas. We will have the date up on the website here in a few weeks once the stock is allocated to a specific container.
 

huez

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Yes that is correct. At the moment we are using a 3" to 2" butterfly valve. In the future we will use the 3" to 3" butterfly valve so it's a full 3" opening all the way into the collection container. From out testing this seems to work really well.

We still believe the thread at the top is the best solution so we are keeping the threaded lid.

How is this tracking @KegLand-com-au ? Currently holding out for the updated version as it sounds like a worth while improvment
 
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Hey all, I'm doing a couple of sours this week, plan to add some frozen berries to the secondary ferment, but I also have some of the Kegland Punch raspberry flavour. Has anyone used these for sours/seltzers? I'm looking for a ballpark range of ml/20L. Thanks.
 

Dpack

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We will have the first of these arrive just after Christmas. We will have the date up on the website here in a few weeks once the stock is allocated to a specific container.
Has there been enough testing to confirm the minimum batch size? I need to make a call on a 15 amp vs 32 amp power outlet and will go with the bigger system if the 100L does a good job of brewing for a single corny keg. Thanks
 

dkril

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Has there been enough testing to confirm the minimum batch size? I need to make a call on a 15 amp vs 32 amp power outlet and will go with the bigger system if the 100L does a good job of brewing for a single corny keg. Thanks
A 32A domestic-style outlet would cover both bases.
 

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