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philrob

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Ladies and Gents,

This is a sponsor's thread, so please keep discussion limited to their products/service etc only.

Any further personal arguments etc will be removed. There have been some moderator reports about this made, but I don't see any need to remove anything to date. Again, please keep your discussions on topic. If you have personal issues, deal with them individually within Personal Messages. At least no one else can read those.

Thanks!
 

Gollywog

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These new 8L kegs look great, but spending $25 on a tapping head is a bit much.
Especially since the stainless steel version is only $4 more.
Will the stainless ball lock tapping head also work on the 8L kegs?
 

KegLand-com-au

www.KegLand.com.au - A Land of Stainless Steel
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These new 8L kegs look great, but spending $25 on a tapping head is a bit much.
Especially since the stainless steel version is only $4 more.
Will the stainless ball lock tapping head also work on the 8L kegs?
That's a fair point. Once we scale up production of this tapping head we will have much more room to reduce pricing. So I would imagine this price will be reviewed very soon.
 

prideofthesouth

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These new 8L kegs look great, but spending $25 on a tapping head is a bit much.
Especially since the stainless steel version is only $4 more.
Will the stainless ball lock tapping head also work on the 8L kegs?
Spot on.
I've got a 4x2 litre set-up and was planning to upgrade to 4x8 for a cost of $20.
That will now cost $120
 

fifis101

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Spot on.
I've got a 4x2 litre set-up and was planning to upgrade to 4x8 for a cost of $20.
That will now cost $120
An simple adaptor for PCO38 to PCO1881 would make it so you could use the plastic tee with plastic gas & beer posts. The advantage of the proper head is that is has a relief. Maybe if there was a plastic tee with 3 inputs would sort this out.
 

prideofthesouth

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An simple adaptor for PCO38 to PCO1881 would make it so you could use the plastic tee with plastic gas & beer posts. The advantage of the proper head is that is has a relief. Maybe if there was a plastic tee with 3 inputs would sort this out.
A adaptor would be great. I don't need the relief as I've got one in line before my 4 bottles
 

Unknown99

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If you are in Australia we will have stock arriving before the end of the year for the BrewZilla Gen 4.0. We will continue to sell both the Gen 4 and the older 3.1.1 at the same time as it will take several months to get the new Gen 4.0 production line up to full speed and also the price of the Gen 4.0 will be about $100 more expensive but have quite a few additional advantages. At the end of the day you can make award winning beer from both of them but the Gen 4 will have the main advantages:

1. Easier to clean with CIP options
2. It can drain out completely
3. It will come with the RAPT controller so you can turn on/off and program profiles remotely using the APP or using a web connected device.
4. It will log the previous brews

We also have a bunch of new accessories too and the accessories will be backward compatible with the older 3.1.1. Some of the accessories include new improved distillation lid, boiler extensionand a few others.
I cant wait to see the new design of the 4.0. Specially the b100. Do you have some pictures of the unit just for a teaser? :)
 

Topher

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Hey crew. I've just started using a 65Litre brewzilla. Done 2 brews, all is good...and it looks like a handy little unit....however sometimes when I turn my pump on it doesnt pull liquid through and sounds real quiet...I can hear a small noise but not as loud as normal. This happened even before I put my first batch through.
A solid thump on the side seems to help. But I'm a little worried.
I've taken the bottom off and the pump head is clear and the silicone hoses aren't kinked, all electrical connections are solid.
Is it me and it's a priming or airlock issue? Anyone seen this before? Maybe a dud start capacitor in the pump motor?
Any help is appreciated.
 

fdsaasdf

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@KegLand-com-au do you have anything in the works in terms of sparge water (or recirculation) diffusers to reduce splashing and oxygen pickup?

I use an upturned bowl but would be interested in something that was fitted to the bz65L vessel or malt pipe. Stainless would be nice but would be happy with something like HDPE that could cope with water up to 80degC and float on top of the mash bed.
 

FarsideOfCrazy

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@KegLand-com-au Can the modular font pieces you sell fit together to make a 'U' shape for the series X plus? If not are there any plans for a 'U' shaped font for the series X plus to fit over both the opening holes?

It would look nice and the cooling air could be circulated through it.
 

mcgarryb

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Hey crew. I've just started using a 65Litre brewzilla. Done 2 brews, all is good...and it looks like a handy little unit....however sometimes when I turn my pump on it doesnt pull liquid through and sounds real quiet...I can hear a small noise but not as loud as normal. This happened even before I put my first batch through.
A solid thump on the side seems to help. But I'm a little worried.
I've taken the bottom off and the pump head is clear and the silicone hoses aren't kinked, all electrical connections are solid.
Is it me and it's a priming or airlock issue? Anyone seen this before? Maybe a dud start capacitor in the pump motor?
Any help is appreciated.
I have this problem sometimes with my 35L Brewzilla. I have to turn the pump on and off a few times. I am guessing it is an issue with air getting into pump but don't know how or what to do to fix the problem. Just hope I don't get the situation where it won't pump.
 

Morgz

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I have this problem sometimes with my 35L Brewzilla. I have to turn the pump on and off a few times. I am guessing it is an issue with air getting into pump but don't know how or what to do to fix the problem. Just hope I don't get the situation where it won't pump.
I also have a 35L that does the same. One tip I can give is make sure after the boil, it completely stops boiling for 30 seconds.
I'm not sure if this is happening (haven't been bothered enough to check), but I work on centrifugal pumps at work. They don't like any air what so ever inside the pump, causes cavitation, and will never fix itself until purging the pump of air. Turning on and off in essence will help clear a little air pocket, if that's what it is.

For me, it only happens after the boil, not during mash.
 

Morgz

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Gen1.0 - 4000W Power Station 240V - Power Controller (kegland.com.au)
does anyone run a 3600w element on one of these? The mods aren't a problem, just wondering about the functionality.
Do you know what your mains voltage is exactly? Either way, 3600w is 15A approx depending voltage, and it's 15A protected. If you decrease voltage, you increase current. I would ask kegland what they recommend pairing it with. I have no experience with this product, but would hesitate using with 3.6kW.
 

KegLand-com-au

www.KegLand.com.au - A Land of Stainless Steel
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An simple adaptor for PCO38 to PCO1881 would make it so you could use the plastic tee with plastic gas & beer posts. The advantage of the proper head is that is has a relief. Maybe if there was a plastic tee with 3 inputs would sort this out.
If you wait a little bit the PCO38 Keg Systems we will put together in some bundle packages as well and the bundle packages with several kegs and tapping head will be better value when purchages as a bundle but we will put these on our website once the products are launched.
 

KegLand-com-au

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A adaptor would be great. I don't need the relief as I've got one in line before my 4 bottles
It is kinda handy to be able to relief pressure at the keg side. If you only have the ability to release pressure at the regulator or further up the gas line you can sometimes be in a situation where you are sucking liquid up the gas line.

Alternatively if you connect a warm keg at a higher pressure the high pressure head space in the warm keg will then raise the pressure of your other kegs. So if you have a PRV on the keg you can release pressure before connecting to your manifold with other kegs connected. We still feel that it's advantageous to have a PRV on each keg for these reasons.
 
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