KegLand Questions and Answers

[Ballaratguy]

I found if you pay the little extra for express auspost it ships faster and typically get it next day

That’s interesting. I’ve found that often parcels via normal post arrive faster than express post. And I live in Ballarat Victoria

 

[clickeral]

That’s interesting. I’ve found that often parcels via normal post arrive faster than express post. And I live in Ballarat Victoria

Anything I have ordered by express Auspost is packed faster for shipment then if I pay for regular

 

[dkril]

Anything I have ordered by express Auspost is packed faster for shipment then if I pay for regular

I think KL have said something to that effect before.

#1 priority for the order pickers in the warehouse is the on site parcel lockers; #2 is express post (and any similar services with other companies); then comes everything else.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

teresting. I’ve found that often parcels via normal post arrive faster than express post. And I live in B

I think KL have said something to that effect before.

#1 priority for the order pickers in the warehouse is the on site parcel lockers; #2 is express post (and any similar services with other companies); then comes everything else.

Yes that is correct. So if you place and order on Monday before 11am and then select "Aus Post Express" then this will go to the top of the picking cue and get shipped on Monday that afternoon. So this is probably your best option.

If you really are regional I should say many regional locations are not guaranteed "Next Day" by Australia Post but it still should be a faster and it will definitely guarantee it gets out of here on the Monday.

 

[Ballaratguy]

Yes that is correct. So if you place and order on Monday before 11am and then select "Aus Post Express" then this will go to the top of the picking cue and get shipped on Monday that afternoon. So this is probably your best option.

If you really are regional I should say many regional locations are not guaranteed "Next Day" by Australia Post but it still should be a faster and it will definitely guarantee it gets out of here on the Monday.

Yeah we all know (us guys in the sticks) know that Victoria stops at the Melbourne boundaries
(If you don’t believe me just look at the spending the government does for Melbourne as against the rest of the atate

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Yeah we all know (us guys in the sticks) know that Victoria stops at the Melbourne boundaries
(If you don’t believe me just look at the spending the government does for Melbourne as against the rest of the atate

So if you purchase from www.kegland.com.au on Monday before 11am and your postcode is in this table below then you should get the goods on Tuesday if you select the Aus Post Express option on our website:

With that said there are a number of caveats to this on the Aus Post website like weather events like cyclones, road issues, strikes or other issues outside of the control of Aus Post. Aus Post snail mail and general parcel post has been getting slower but with that said their express delivery option if you are in the postcodes above is excellent with more than 95% of parcels getting delivered with the "next day" period.

 

[Ballaratguy]

So if you purchase from www.kegland.com.au on Monday before 11am and your postcode is in this table below then you should get the goods on Tuesday if you select the Aus Post Express option on our website:

View attachment 125156

With that said there are a number of caveats to this on the Aus Post website like weather events like cyclones, road issues, strikes or other issues outside of the control of Aus Post. Aus Post snail mail and general parcel post has been getting slower but with that said their express delivery option if you are in the postcodes above is excellent with more than 95% of parcels getting delivered with the "next day" period.

Yeah and Ballarat (3350) isn’t in the list
I once got a parcel sent from Adelaide, 2 days from Adelaide to Melbourne 1 day to Ballarat then 7 days to deliver to my place (about 1.5km from the local distribution center)
I had the occasion to complain to aust post a couple of months later about another parcel that was taken forever to arrive and (after Covid had struck). When I said about the parcel from Adelaide they then replied that Covid had mucks up everything they then went silent when I said that that was pre covid
They’re probably still blaming covid

 

[DJ_L3ThAL]

@KegLand-com-au any plans to release an 8mm version of the SS rigid duotight joiner?

Either that, or a stainless inline check valve for SS MFL disconnects? I like to have a check valve right at the disconnect but prefer more sturdy SS items, preferably with barb fittings. But to have a check valve on an SS disconnect an MFL connection between the disconnect and the check valve would be fine.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

@KegLand-com-au any plans to release an 8mm version of the SS rigid duotight joiner?

Either that, or a stainless inline check valve for SS MFL disconnects? I like to have a check valve right at the disconnect but prefer more sturdy SS items, preferably with barb fittings. But to have a check valve on an SS disconnect an MFL connection between the disconnect and the check valve would be fine.

https://kegland.com.au/products/rigid-stainless-steel-joiner-6-5mm-id-x-9-5mm-od-3-8-x-60mm-long
This part is fairly easy to make so we can certainly make an 8mm version of this too.

It's also quite easy to make an 8mm version of this just using this too:
https://kegland.com.au/products/red...r-stainless-copper-aluminium-general-plumbing
So this is probably the best option in the meantime.

 

[DJ_L3ThAL]

@KegLand-com-au any thoughts on upgrading this unit to have tri-clamp fittings welded/brazed onto the copper similar to the Coolosus II so that it is sanitary and without plastic at least on the wort side? https://kegland.com.au/products/red-reaper-counter-flow-chiller-garden-hose-brewzilla-kit

 

[KegLand-com-au]

@KegLand-com-au any thoughts on upgrading this unit to have tri-clamp fittings welded/brazed onto the copper similar to the Coolosus II so that it is sanitary and without plastic at least on the wort side? https://kegland.com.au/products/red-reaper-counter-flow-chiller-garden-hose-brewzilla-kit

Our instructions for this are to run boiling hot worth through the coil for 2 minutes before you start the water flow. As a result the whole thing should be heat sterilized.

With that said it is not that difficult for us to put tri-clover clamps on it but I honestly feel that this just adds cost and doesn't really improve the results at all.

What do you guys think? Keen to get the general consensus on this on to see if this is what customers really want.

 

[DJ_L3ThAL]

Our instructions for this are to run boiling hot worth through the coil for 2 minutes before you start the water flow. As a result the whole thing should be heat sterilized.

With that said it is not that difficult for us to put tri-clover clamps on it but I honestly feel that this just adds cost and doesn't really improve the results at all.

What do you guys think? Keen to get the general consensus on this on to see if this is what customers really want.

Just my 2c (although I know a few brewers who are in same boat as me), the Coolosus II was awesome but obviously the SS heat transfer inefficiency was the only problem with it. So a copper version of that would be the optimal wort chiller on the market. I'm not after the cheapest, but the best performing and most sanitary. You almost had me and some others with the Coolosus II so it was slightly disappointing to see the introduction of plastic fittings is all.

PS. crevices, nooks and crannies are what I mean by not sanitary. e.g. running boiling water through a 3-piece ball valve is what a lot of people deem enough, but that is not enough to stop crud, mould etc building up over time and whilst it may be "sanitary" due to the heat across the surface, do you want your wort/beer running over surface sanitized crud/mould? I know I don't. Compression fittings like Swagelok etc are also shocking, I have found build up of mould inside the threads (if these are submerged in a kettle) and around the double ferrule parts of those fittings too, threads can get quite nasty! O-ring crevices are another area as are hoses pushed over barbs (as the tubing can let bits of liquid in between the barb and hose when they flex).

 

[DJ_L3ThAL]

@KegLand-com-au what plastic is the little red low volume spray unit made from and what is it's maximum temperature?

Also never heard back on this one

 

[clickeral]

Just my 2c (although I know a few brewers who are in same boat as me), the Coolosus II was awesome but obviously the SS heat transfer inefficiency was the only problem with it. So a copper version of that would be the optimal wort chiller on the market. I'm not after the cheapest, but the best performing and most sanitary. You almost had me and some others with the Coolosus II so it was slightly disappointing to see the introduction of plastic fittings is all.

PS. crevices, nooks and crannies are what I mean by not sanitary. e.g. running boiling water through a 3-piece ball valve is what a lot of people deem enough, but that is not enough to stop crud, mould etc building up over time and whilst it may be "sanitary" due to the heat across the surface, do you want your wort/beer running over surface sanitized crud/mould? I know I don't. Compression fittings like Swagelok etc are also shocking, I have found build up of mould inside the threads (if these are submerged in a kettle) and around the double ferrule parts of those fittings too, threads can get quite nasty! O-ring crevices are another area as are hoses pushed over barbs (as the tubing can let bits of liquid in between the barb and hose when they flex).

Copper inner and stainless outer would be the go, shame ive already got a Coolosus 11 (still haven't used it)

 

[Coalface]

Hey @KegLand-com-au we go through 2 1.25 litre bottles each of soda water a day. Currently reusing standard PET bottles with a carb cap for this, but recently read this article that talks about the contamination of micro and nano plastics: https://www.tribuneindia.com/news/comment/plastic-in-every-sip-the-toxic-truth-about-bottled-water/

Was wondering if you could do a BPA free bottle, perhaps PPSU with the standard 24/410 cap thread for carbonating water with the carb caps?

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Also never heard back on this one

Sorry. That part can handle 110C.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Just my 2c (although I know a few brewers who are in same boat as me), the Coolosus II was awesome but obviously the SS heat transfer inefficiency was the only problem with it. So a copper version of that would be the optimal wort chiller on the market. I'm not after the cheapest, but the best performing and most sanitary. You almost had me and some others with the Coolosus II so it was slightly disappointing to see the introduction of plastic fittings is all.

PS. crevices, nooks and crannies are what I mean by not sanitary. e.g. running boiling water through a 3-piece ball valve is what a lot of people deem enough, but that is not enough to stop crud, mould etc building up over time and whilst it may be "sanitary" due to the heat across the surface, do you want your wort/beer running over surface sanitized crud/mould? I know I don't. Compression fittings like Swagelok etc are also shocking, I have found build up of mould inside the threads (if these are submerged in a kettle) and around the double ferrule parts of those fittings too, threads can get quite nasty! O-ring crevices are another area as are hoses pushed over barbs (as the tubing can let bits of liquid in between the barb and hose when they flex).

Yes that is a fair point. I will take that to the others and see what they say. We might have room in the range for another model with TC fittings in copper.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Hey @KegLand-com-au we go through 2 1.25 litre bottles each of soda water a day. Currently reusing standard PET bottles with a carb cap for this, but recently read this article that talks about the contamination of micro and nano plastics: https://www.tribuneindia.com/news/comment/plastic-in-every-sip-the-toxic-truth-about-bottled-water/

Was wondering if you could do a BPA free bottle, perhaps PPSU with the standard 24/410 cap thread for carbonating water with the carb caps?

I am not sure that I would put too much emphasis on this article as it reads a bit more like click bait to me. There are many peer reviewed papers out there and PET is one of the most researched plastics that has passed many toxicity tests based on the plastic breaking down over time. It is known that as the plastic breaks down with age and UV the most toxic component of PET is the Acid Aldehyde but if you are concerned about that then you probably should not be on this forum as alcohol is metabolized through this pathway and acid aldehyde is naturally occurring in far higher concentrations in every day food we eat.

Even when the plastic breaks down (which doesn't happen easily) the individual monomers or chemicals that come out of PET are really not a concern either.

I would be far more concerned about any products that contain plasticizers such as vinyl, PVC beer line, other types of rubbers that contain plasticizers. Polycarbonate is also a significant concern.

I think a lot of customers who do not go to the effort to distinguish between one plastic and another just say all plastics are bad to human health but it's really not the case. I personally regard PET and PE to be very safe.

 

[Prost]

Hi guys, after working great for half an hour, I now cannot pair my new BLE thermometer with the Brewzilla any longer. The display on the thermometer doesn't stay on for longer than a second, batteries are fine, no idea what's going on. Any ideas?

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Hi guys, after working great for half an hour, I now cannot pair my new BLE thermometer with the Brewzilla any longer. The display on the thermometer doesn't stay on for longer than a second, batteries are fine, no idea what's going on. Any ideas?

It really looks like a battery issue to be honest. I can appreciate that you say batteries are fine but is it possible for you to measure the voltage on the batteries with a multimeter? I am not aware of any other issue that would cause this to happen other than batteries not having enough charge.

 

[DJ_L3ThAL]

@KegLand-com-au have you had many customers use a bucket of water or even water/glycol mixture inside a kegerator and submersible pump recirculating this water at the same temp as the kegerator through a flooded font? Was thinking this could simplify a grand deluxe install if I'm not needed the font to completely ice up, but just stay cold enough to keep the beer in lines fresh? I've seen a few in the wild who just blow the fridge air up the font but this doesn't seem to work great with low beer usage in warmer months... thinking perhaps if the bucket of water was always at the same temp as the served beverages and constantly recirulated in the font it should keep it all cold enough?

 

[Prost]

It really looks like a battery issue to be honest. I can appreciate that you say batteries are fine but is it possible for you to measure the voltage on the batteries with a multimeter? I am not aware of any other issue that would cause this to happen other than batteries not having enough charge.

I wish that was it, but I tried several brand new ones.

 

[Prost]

I wish that was it, but I tried several brand new ones.

Last time I was able to pair it the RAPT app told me the batteries were fine.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

@KegLand-com-au have you had many customers use a bucket of water or even water/glycol mixture inside a kegerator and submersible pump recirculating this water at the same temp as the kegerator through a flooded font? Was thinking this could simplify a grand deluxe install if I'm not needed the font to completely ice up, but just stay cold enough to keep the beer in lines fresh? I've seen a few in the wild who just blow the fridge air up the font but this doesn't seem to work great with low beer usage in warmer months... thinking perhaps if the bucket of water was always at the same temp as the served beverages and constantly recirulated in the font it should keep it all cold enough?

As you know the fridge cools the air, then you need the air to cool the liquid, then the liquid cools the font.

It's often the case the customers do not have a true "flooded font too" and often they just use a glycol loop with another air cavity between the glycol lines and the air itself around the glycol loop.

Each time you change from one media to the next and go from air to glycol the temp increases. For instance if your kegerator is set to 2C for example and the ambient temp is 25C then you will get fairly poor results. For example lets say your glycol tank and the font on the kegerator have a similar surface area and are similarly conductive (both made of stainless steel) then the best case scenario is that your glycol would be half way between ambient temp and the air temp. So the glycol would be about 12.5C. At that temperature you would actually be warming your beer as it goes to the taps not cooling it down.

If the fridge is air cooled and you have enough space in the font to blow air you would still be better off just blowing the air directly up the font.

I should also say a properly made fully flooded font absorbs a load of heat too. For example this flooded font here will absorb about 200 watts of heat when it's sitting at -1C
https://kegland.com.au/products/4-tap-t-bar-flooded-font-stainless-steel
Just to put that in perspective the total cooling power of a small kegerator would also be about 200 watts of cooling. So your fridge would be running at 100% duty cycle just to keep the font cold let alone cooling the kegs. It would really struggle to be honest.

If you want to do a flooded font properly you should get a much larger chiller that is rated to 500watts or more so you sill have sufficient wattage to cool beer as well as the font while getting the font down to -1C.

For almost all domestic customers simply improving the insulation to your font is time better spent and then air cooling as mentioned above.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Last time I was able to pair it the RAPT app told me the batteries were fine. View attachment 125184

The only way to be sure is to measure the batteries with a multimeter. If the voltage of each AAA cell is below 1.2V then this will be your issue. Without testing we are really just guessing.

 

[BeerDrinker99]

Bump

@KegLand-com-au bump - looks like this was expected around March. Will this be press released in the next month or two? Trying to figure out if I should hole out for this or buy a different fermenter

 

[DJ_L3ThAL]

As you know the fridge cools the air, then you need the air to cool the liquid, then the liquid cools the font.

It's often the case the customers do not have a true "flooded font too" and often they just use a glycol loop with another air cavity between the glycol lines and the air itself around the glycol loop.

Each time you change from one media to the next and go from air to glycol the temp increases. For instance if your kegerator is set to 2C for example and the ambient temp is 25C then you will get fairly poor results. For example lets say your glycol tank and the font on the kegerator have a similar surface area and are similarly conductive (both made of stainless steel) then the best case scenario is that your glycol would be half way between ambient temp and the air temp. So the glycol would be about 12.5C. At that temperature you would actually be warming your beer as it goes to the taps not cooling it down.

If the fridge is air cooled and you have enough space in the font to blow air you would still be better off just blowing the air directly up the font.

I should also say a properly made fully flooded font absorbs a load of heat too. For example this flooded font here will absorb about 200 watts of heat when it's sitting at -1C
https://kegland.com.au/products/4-tap-t-bar-flooded-font-stainless-steel
Just to put that in perspective the total cooling power of a small kegerator would also be about 200 watts of cooling. So your fridge would be running at 100% duty cycle just to keep the font cold let alone cooling the kegs. It would really struggle to be honest.

If you want to do a flooded font properly you should get a much larger chiller that is rated to 500watts or more so you sill have sufficient wattage to cool beer as well as the font while getting the font down to -1C.

For almost all domestic customers simply improving the insulation to your font is time better spent and then air cooling as mentioned above.

Thank you this is helpful. I’m now wondering if the optimal domestic font is a goal post one that’s well insulated and a strong fan to push cool fridge air in one side returning into the fridge on the other side?

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Thank you this is helpful. I’m now wondering if the optimal domestic font is a goal post one that’s well insulated and a strong fan to push cool fridge air in one side returning into the fridge on the other side?

The shape of the font is not very important. Air will flow up and down a traditional tube shape font fine too.

Really insulation is the key. If your insulation is great then the you don't need much airflow. If your insulation is crap then you will get a lot of heat ingress and the results will be poor.

Goalpost fonts are difficult to improve insulation as the shape is difficult to work with and often the access to the middle part of the font is poor.

 

[Prost]

The only way to be sure is to measure the batteries with a multimeter. If the voltage of each AAA cell is below 1.2V then this will be your issue. Without testing we are really just guessing.

Multimeter says both cells are fine.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Multimeter says both cells are fine.
View attachment 125190

Great. Thanks for that. This is quite helpful. It seems your batteries are 100% full. However on the old telemetry it shows that your battery percentage was reading 89%. That is a little bit strange:

Given that the actual battery voltage should be 100% I tend to thing that there is a bad connection between the battery and the battery cradle or the wiring from the battery terminals to the PCB. Does the spring or battery terminal look corroded or damaged at all?