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kadmium

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That only applies to a moving liquid. When static, the pressure behind the tap will be the same as in the keg.
I was about to ask that. Glad you answered cause I'm not sure how it all works. Makes sense, as the liquid flows line resistance decreases pressure but when static it equalises. Is that right?
 

Vic

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Ok good to know, so it will make no difference if you go either 4 mm or 5 mm tube?
Yes it will make a difference. 4mm provides significantly more resistance than 5mm. You will need a longer 5mm line OR reduce flow by turning down the flow control disconnect. Another trick is to stretch the tube to reduce ID. See explanation and photos. https://www.kegland.com.au/bronco-picnic-party-tap.html
 

MontPel

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Ok good to know, so it will make no difference if you go either 4 mm or 5 mm tube?
It will make a difference if you use 4mm or 5mm, but you can adjust for that difference with the disconnect to get the right pour
 

KegLand-com-au

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When using the Flow Control Ball Lock Disconnect what size tubing (4mm or 5mm) and length is optimal?

Does CO2 come out of the beer in the lines when sitting for a while, because of low pressure?
Then when you go to pour, this separation causes spurting and foaming at the tap?
If this is the case, then shorter smaller (4mm) lines would be best?

The Flow Control Ball Lock disconnect can be used with no beer line at all if you wanted to and you can put the tap directly on the disconnect. This works acceptably well.

If you do have beer line I would just not use too much as you can have the issue of not being able to flow fast enough. So for a standard direct draw kegerator setup 1-2 meters of 5mm ID or 80cm-1m of 4mm ID would be fine.
 

Warwick

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I just plumbed in mains water to my kegerator with a soda water reactor lid. I have a few meters of 4mm ID EvaBarrier line siting outside the kegerator that is filled with water and I want to cover it as it gets exposed to sunlight. Any suggestions?
 

fdsaasdf

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I just plumbed in mains water to my kegerator with a soda water reactor lid. I have a few meters of 4mm ID EvaBarrier line siting outside the kegerator that is filled with water and I want to cover it as it gets exposed to sunlight. Any suggestions?
I'd be using blue water line for this. You could just wrap it with any old cheap foam, or flexible conduit, or heatshrink...
 

Mick Chopps

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The Flow Control Ball Lock disconnect can be used with no beer line at all if you wanted to and you can put the tap directly on the disconnect. This works acceptably well.

If you do have beer line I would just not use too much as you can have the issue of not being able to flow fast enough. So for a standard direct draw kegerator setup 1-2 meters of 5mm ID or 80cm-1m of 4mm ID would be fine.
Just connected up my new lines last night after setting up my new font. Running about ~1m lengths of the 4mm ID and it's pouring perfectly.

Forgot to order more duotights though.... gonna have mine them from elsewhere in the system to set up all remaining kegs! :rolleyes:🤦‍♂️
 

KegLand-com-au

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Just on this, any update on the new version of the FC ball lock disconnect?

I am really sorry about this we have some more urgent product development that has overtaken the FC Ball Lock Disconnect. It's very close to getting completed but I am very sorry this one has really taken way longer than we had expected. I don't have the final ETA but it's certainly something we will get stuck into very soon.
 

KegLand-com-au

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I just plumbed in mains water to my kegerator with a soda water reactor lid. I have a few meters of 4mm ID EvaBarrier line siting outside the kegerator that is filled with water and I want to cover it as it gets exposed to sunlight. Any suggestions?

Yes I have done the same thing and have never looked back. For anyone with a soda stream or been filling kegs manually to make sodawater I would highly recommend just plumbing up the soda reactor.

I have my garden watering that uses EVABarrier and it's been outside in the sun with mains water pressure and has not failed yet and it's been 2 years. Mind you we do not use UV stabilisers so it will probably fail eventually. I would agree that Bunnings flexible conduit is probably the cheapest and easiest solution.
 

DJR

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Yes this is a good idea. What about we make a PCO1881 cap that can screw onto one of the PCO 1881 threads then on the other side we put the female thread for the PRV like this:

KL20176%20-%20PCO%201881%20-%20PRV.jpg

KL20176%20-%20PCO%201881%20-%20PRV%20exploded.jpg


Is something like this more or less what you are after?

Similar thing on this topic... could you make a version of the carb cap that has a male PCO 1881 thread - so you could put it into the other side on the PCO1881 x PCO1881 ball valve as a standard gas disconnect after you finish dry hopping, e.g. for then transferring. That way you'd never have to unscrew the ball valve to put a spunding valve back on or a gas disconnect for pressurised transfers - just swap the top.

A PCO1881 x PCO1881 Male-to-Male adaptor would also work... then you just screw a carb cap on top.

i haven't got a fermzilla (yet) but looking at the dry hop thing it makes a lot of sense, just seems like you have to unscrew the ball valve to re-attach a spunding valve after dry hopping or to transfer things, or am i missing something?
 

FarsideOfCrazy

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Hi @KegLand-com-au. I've got an idea for the series X kegerator.

Would it be possible to make a half shelf that could be removed when not needed to be able to store drinks on one side of the fridge if there were only one or two kegs in use? All that would be needed is a vertical support and two or three shelves that could attach to this and then slot into the existing shelf supports on one side of the fridge.

I rarely have more than two kegs on tap at once but always have other cans or bottles in the basket in my keezer.

I'm asking this because my keezer is starting to die and an update is in my near future.

Cheers
 

Engibeer

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Similar thing on this topic... could you make a version of the carb cap that has a male PCO 1881 thread - so you could put it into the other side on the PCO1881 x PCO1881 ball valve as a standard gas disconnect after you finish dry hopping, e.g. for then transferring. That way you'd never have to unscrew the ball valve to put a spunding valve back on or a gas disconnect for pressurised transfers - just swap the top.

A PCO1881 x PCO1881 Male-to-Male adaptor would also work... then you just screw a carb cap on top.

i haven't got a fermzilla (yet) but looking at the dry hop thing it makes a lot of sense, just seems like you have to unscrew the ball valve to re-attach a spunding valve after dry hopping or to transfer things, or am i missing something?




The name in the link above is wrong, that actually links to 1/2 to 3/4in which is what you would need.

These two parts should work for your suggested application.
 

Nullnvoid

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I have a fill-o-meter, when I fill 1-2 litres into a bucket it's spot on. When I fill my HLT with 60l either through the ball valve or right over the top, it's 20l out.

I know the markings on my HLT are correct as I weighed each litre of water and also my brews always come out spot on.

Any ideas Kegland?
 

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