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RRising

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Hi Kegland, I've had a BZ35 3.0 for a year and a bit and the bottom screen (pump filter) has never really sat right. If I whirlpool using a spoon, it will lift up off the bottom and sort of float around. I've also noticed that it dances off the bottom while running a full boil. It seems the fit isn't quite snug enough (there's a few mm either side). Are there any solutions to this? I remember Gash mentioning in one of his videos that some people tie weights to the bottom of it, but I'm hoping there's a better alternative.
I bought a robobrew V3 (i think just before they changed to the Brewzilla) and every false bottom and screen came visibly bent. I inquired about the warranty but they never responded, i got them as flat as i could but they still aren't perfectly flat.

Maybe it was the last of their stock and might have been sitting in their warehouse a while but i think i got a dodgy RB, the 1900w element boils to vigorously and the 500w isn't strong enough to maintain a nice rolling boil.
 

Warwick

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I also continue to keep re-circulating the pump even after the boil and I find that even if a small amount of solids get under the screen they are often picked up by the pump then put back into the top of the boiler where they get filtered out.
This is interesting and makes total sense. Just to clarify - do you run the pump heating up to boil and all through the boil?
 

Grmblz

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I bought a robobrew V3 (i think just before they changed to the Brewzilla) and every false bottom and screen came visibly bent. I inquired about the warranty but they never responded, i got them as flat as i could but they still aren't perfectly flat.

Maybe it was the last of their stock and might have been sitting in their warehouse a while but i think i got a dodgy RB, the 1900w element boils to vigorously and the 500w isn't strong enough to maintain a nice rolling boil.
+1 But such is life, it's a bit like computers, if you wait for the latest CPU/GPU you'll never buy one, as painful as it can be buying a V.1 or V.3 in this case (and then V3.1 comes out) I applaud their continuing development, personally I'm waiting for maltzilla V.3, V.1 has issues (was always going to have) V.2 will fix those issues, and V.3 will be a refinement, just my 2 bobs worth. FWIW my Robo V.3 works fine, just has a couple of little niggles, and from what I see is better than the latest Guten with it's dodgy pipe issues.
 

donald_trub

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We generally do not whirlpool as the screen tends to prevent most of the solids from exiting via the pump. We also notice the same thing and the screen does float up a little during vigorous boil but with that said it doesnt seem to prevent the screen from filtering a lot of the hop material out. Yes you can weigh the screen down but if it just jiggling around a bit while large bubbles are pushing it up I probably would not be too concerned about it.

I also continue to keep re-circulating the pump even after the boil and I find that even if a small amount of solids get under the screen they are often picked up by the pump then put back into the top of the boiler where they get filtered out.
Thanks for this. I always thought the whirlpool was a bit useless with this style of brewing, and I agree recircing with the pump should sort out most of it. I'll keep an eye on the floating screen next time and see if it's as big of a problem as I think it is. Probably not now that I think about it, although perhaps a heavier screen would be a good iteration for peace of mind?
 

pharmaboy

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Are there any causes for the series x fridge sounding like pidgeons in my house? I'm ten metres away with the TV on, and its still loud enough to be annoying!

There was a post that said it maybe gets better after a few weeks, but given its refrigerant moving around, I was wondering if gassing it a little might help (as it is, I am putting into a cabinet and was going to use some rockwool to try and make it more acceptable)
 

RRising

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+1 But such is life, it's a bit like computers, if you wait for the latest CPU/GPU you'll never buy one, as painful as it can be buying a V.1 or V.3 in this case (and then V3.1 comes out) I applaud their continuing development, personally I'm waiting for maltzilla V.3, V.1 has issues (was always going to have) V.2 will fix those issues, and V.3 will be a refinement, just my 2 bobs worth. FWIW my Robo V.3 works fine, just has a couple of little niggles, and from what I see is better than the latest Guten with it's dodgy pipe issues.
Absolutely, i am just a little bit bitter that my robobrew came (can't really call defective) dodgy out of the box with the bent screens and heating elements. That said i did the best i could with what i got, i flattened out the screens the best i could and i use a few drops of fermcap to stop the over boiling.

And the fact that Kegland never got back to me about replacing the screens is a bit annoying.

Are there any causes for the series x fridge sounding like pidgeons in my house? I'm ten metres away with the TV on, and its still loud enough to be annoying!

There was a post that said it maybe gets better after a few weeks, but given its refrigerant moving around, I was wondering if gassing it a little might help (as it is, I am putting into a cabinet and was going to use some rockwool to try and make it more acceptable)
The fridge itself is just a cheap no name generic unit with a sticker of the seller on it, everyone uses them. I have a series 4 Kegland kegerator in the shed and it is loud AF and its nearly 2 years old.
 

Lix

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I have recently aquired a Series X as a newly converted kegger and really mine is not noisy. I can hear the fan in the midle of the night but I couldn't be happier. Enjoying my first beer from it right now in fact - a belgian blonde
 
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Hi,
Not sure if this has been asked, but is it possible to build in a Grand deluxe 3 kegarator?

I am looking to have one as part of alfresco BBQ area and just wanting to know what the airflow requirements would be?

If anyone has done this setup before or has any guidance it would be much appreciated.

Thanks
 

Vic

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Hi,
Not sure if this has been asked, but is it possible to build in a Grand deluxe 3 kegarator?

I am looking to have one as part of alfresco BBQ area and just wanting to know what the airflow requirements would be?

If anyone has done this setup before or has any guidance it would be much appreciated.

Thanks
Have a look at the photos on the website. Under the switches and the temp controller, that is the air intake. the grill on the side and back are the air out flow. These must not be obstructed. Depending on how you are building it in, it could be possible to duct the exhaust air and or fit a more powerful fan, possibly leading to increased efficiency.
 
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Have a look at the photos on the website. Under the switches and the temp controller, that is the air intake. the grill on the side and back are the air out flow. These must not be obstructed. Depending on how you are building it in, it could be possible to duct the exhaust air and or fit a more powerful fan, possibly leading to increased efficiency.
Thanks Vic,

Yeah it was going to be light weight construction on a timber deck. So was thinking about putting a vent at the rear to allow for the flow of air. Just wasn't sure about the side vents and if there was a known offset.
I have to admit I didn't think to use an exhaust system
 

Warwick

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Hi all,

I am in the process of looking at an install of the keg lid for continuous soda water (Continuous Soda Water On Tap - Mains Water Connected - Forget about Sodastream, this is for the serious soda drinker.) and wanting some advice please. Do I have this right? Is there a better way?

15mm cistern stop/tap -> 15mm hex socket -> Monotight 8mm Push in X 1/2inch Male -> 5mm ID line -> Duotight inline regulator with integrated gauge (will need to swap out the gauge for 0-100psi) -> More 5mm ID line -> Duotight 8mm one way check valve -> More 5mm ID line -> Liquid quick disconnect


And finally for a dumb question, as it's recommended to reduce mains water pressure, assuming my mains pressure is 100psi and my regulator is set to 50psi, I would only need to reduce the mains pressure by 10-20psi right? (30-40psi higher than regulator set pressure)
 

Engibeer

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Hi all,

I am in the process of looking at an install of the keg lid for continuous soda water (Continuous Soda Water On Tap - Mains Water Connected - Forget about Sodastream, this is for the serious soda drinker.) and wanting some advice please. Do I have this right? Is there a better way?

15mm cistern stop/tap -> 15mm hex socket -> Monotight 8mm Push in X 1/2inch Male -> 5mm ID line -> Duotight inline regulator with integrated gauge (will need to swap out the gauge for 0-100psi) -> More 5mm ID line -> Duotight 8mm one way check valve -> More 5mm ID line -> Liquid quick disconnect


And finally for a dumb question, as it's recommended to reduce mains water pressure, assuming my mains pressure is 100psi and my regulator is set to 50psi, I would only need to reduce the mains pressure by 10-20psi right? (30-40psi higher than regulator set pressure)
Ignore post prior to edit. Looks reasonable, I didn't read that you mentioned ID.

My only comment would be that if it's exposed to light you're probably better off using opaque water line outside the fridge.

[/URL]
 

MashBasher

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We are making further improvements to these at the moment so you can wire a heating device to the temp controller if you wanted to do this.
That's a great improvement. Will a retrofit kit for earlier model G20s be possible/available?
 

KegLand-com-au

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We will start to sell the blank boards with some pre-drilled holes for multiple different configurations. this is something that has already been approved on our end for manufacture so they will probably come into stock in a few months.
 

KegLand-com-au

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That's a great improvement. Will a retrofit kit for earlier model G20s be possible/available?
Yes I think that will be possible. You will have to a bit of slicing and dicing to fit the new board into the older machine but it's not that difficult to do.
 

KegLand-com-au

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I bought a robobrew V3 (i think just before they changed to the Brewzilla) and every false bottom and screen came visibly bent. I inquired about the warranty but they never responded, i got them as flat as i could but they still aren't perfectly flat.

Maybe it was the last of their stock and might have been sitting in their warehouse a while but i think i got a dodgy RB, the 1900w element boils to vigorously and the 500w isn't strong enough to maintain a nice rolling boil.
This was how they come when they are punched out of the press. With this very thin rolled material it's difficult to have it punch completely flat. For the screen that protects solids from getting into the pump this is not required to be thick as it's only to prevent solids sitting on the element and also getting into the pump.

With that said on the new models we have been increasing the thickness of the screens anyway.
 

KegLand-com-au

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Ignore post prior to edit. Looks reasonable, I didn't read that you mentioned ID.

My only comment would be that if it's exposed to light you're probably better off using opaque water line outside the fridge.

[/URL]

I think for this one it's best to refer to this manual here as this has some diagrams that will probably help you:

We have installed this carbonation unit at work and several of the staff have them at home. Seriously these are awesome and if you like soda water then you really cant beat plumbing the system in like this. The convenience of not having to fill, refrigerate, carbonate bottles etc. I used to carbonate a keg in the fridge but now even that seems like too much work filling the keg up all the time when you can just plumb the keg into mains water supply.
 

KegLand-com-au

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Have a look at the photos on the website. Under the switches and the temp controller, that is the air intake. the grill on the side and back are the air out flow. These must not be obstructed. Depending on how you are building it in, it could be possible to duct the exhaust air and or fit a more powerful fan, possibly leading to increased efficiency.
Yes that is absolutely correct. The grills on the side back and front should not be obstructed. If you blocked up a few of the vents the compressor would have to work harder and it would cost you more in power so it's not a good idea to obstruct the vents at all.
 

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sherwicf

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Just wondering when whirlfloc/yeast nutrient will be available in 100g/1kg sizes? I see yeast nutrient is available in the 15kg pails only at the minute.

Also wondering if there's any plans to sell an antifoam/fermcap?

Thanks
Ciaran
 
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