Kegerator setup options - Melbourne

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$499.99

I would have put a smart arse comment in there like "its in front of your face if you actually liked at the photo"
 
Out of interest other than the cost of the fridge what's the cost of building one?
 
zarniwoop said:
Out of interest other than the cost of the fridge what's the cost of building one?
Depends what your comparing to, I picked up a chest freezer for $120, I will in the long run end up with 6 taps hanging off it. Now to get a a similar setup I would need 2 Keg King setups with three taps on each, so nearly $1200 with basic taps, probably more.

So conservatively $100each Fc Perlics with shanks. $60 for timber for collar.$120 Disconnects . $20 Temp controller. Haven't sorted drip tray.

Note I will have room in the keezer for a further 6-8 kegs, and I already have half of this gear in my current setup.

I will probably later clad the top and make other mods, biggest advantage for me is to have kegs chilling well before they go on tap, and still have all taps loaded
 
Thanks for all the feedback and help on this guys. I've gone and bought a home brew kit from Grain and Grape, and will be placing an order with Cheeky Peak tomorrow to send down the kegerator with upgraded taps (3 x 545 perlicks), upgraded font, tower fan and a few other things. Once you factor in the upgrades Cheeky Peak were by far the cheapest, and they were very knowledgeable and helpful. Delivery is only $42 to Melbourne. Thanks for the tip on that one, Fents!

Speaking of the home brew kit, there were a few components in there that aren't mentioned in the instructions/explained how to use properly, and the guy at G&G didn't mention either. I've attached a photo of them, was hoping that one of you guys would know what they are and how to use them?

- One is a thermometer, sounds dumb but I'm not sure where you're supposed to put it? It's flimsy and almost like it should be stuck on or something. Do you just dip it in the top of the fermenter to check the temp of the beer? To do that would require unscrewing the lid though.
- The long thing I have no idea what it is
- Same for the small plastic cap type thing
- The syringe I'm not sure what that's used for?

Thanks guys.

IMAG0067.jpg




sp0rk said:
Mind if I ask your reasons for not going a converted fridge?
There's a few reasons: 1. I didn't have an old fridge lying around, so would have to buy one anyway. 2. Got a few other things on at the moment so right now didn't want to spend the extra time converting a regular fridge - just wanted it to "work" 3. 3 beers on tap is more than enough for me so didn't need to convert those big chest freezers, 4. It'll be living in the kitchen and I think the KK kegerator will look nice with everything else.
 
The "long thing" is a bottling wand it goes inside the tap outlet and you put it in the bottle and press up against the spring to open the valve and fill the bottle.
The thermometer goes on your fermenter as an approx. indicator of temperature.
The small thing is a sediment reducer it goes in the back of the tap before you screw it in with the little opening facing up, you dont realy need to use this.
The syringe may be for using licoriche extract or liquid dry enzyme.
 
Out of interest other than the cost of the fridge what's the cost of building one?
From scratch it will cost you about $1k+, those KK kegerators and the like are cheap BUT they are missing a fair bit, just to name afew:
Gas $250 for 6kg
Disconnects, 20$ apair x 3 =$60
Proper taps, as much as you want to spend.
Kegs, $60ea x3 = $180
+ shipping that would get your 3 tap model to the $1K mark.

I personaly went the route of an aldi chest freezer, I liked the fact that you can open it up and eaisly rearrange your beer without dumping out all your cold air onto your feet.
And you can buy proper aussie made floryte taps instead of those crappy yank taps :lol: :ph34r::p
 
(Andale) Floryte :beerbang:

I picked up 2 of those at a trash and treasure for $2 each and they have never missed a beat, barely even drip. That got my fridge conversion well under 1k, the most expensive part was the snaplocks from Andale but well worth it IMO
 
maxim0200 said:
From scratch it will cost you about $1k+, those KK kegerators and the like are cheap BUT they are missing a fair bit, just to name afew: Gas $250 for 6kg Disconnects, 20$ apair x 3 =$60 Proper taps, as much as you want to spend. Kegs, $60ea x3 = $180 + shipping that would get your 3 tap model to the $1K mark. I personaly went the route of an aldi chest freezer, I liked the fact that you can open it up and eaisly rearrange your beer without dumping out all your cold air onto your feet. And you can buy proper aussie made floryte taps instead of those crappy yank taps :lol: :ph34r: :p
IF you're buying all brand new
Or if you're like me and you're awesome at getting bargains, about $300
Free fridge on freecycle
kegs for $40 if you look around
2 andale DA taps on ebay for $40 each, they only need a service kit now 2 years after I bought them
shanks and connectors for said taps were $40 from a forum member
co2 fire extinguisher $20 at my local tip shop
refill for the extinguisher was $50
and disconnects were as you said about $20 a pair
my fridge fits 2 kegs so all up it was around a touch over $300
 
Thanks guys very informative.

What's with the fire extinguisher? I've seen references to this but I'm still flaky on the details? (I.e. what type of extinguisher, does it need an adapter, who fills them etc?)
 
zarniwoop said:
Thanks guys very informative.

What's with the fire extinguisher? I've seen references to this but I'm still flaky on the details? (I.e. what type of extinguisher, does it need an adapter, who fills them etc?)
any CO2 extinguisher with a 1/4" npt outlet will work, otherwise you're going to need an adapter
Some people say to store them upside if you haven't had the internal dip tube removed so it doesn't suck up liquid CO2 from the bottom of the cylinder
However I've never had this happen, but I might just be lucky
Extinguishers are filled with industrial grade CO2, but opinions on what this means vary some say it just means the tank that they're filled from isn't certified to be completely clean but it's never bothered me
I have a source that fills mine as it's a legal pressure vessel, so there aren't any legal troubles with him filling it AS LONG as it's within the certified dates (5 years for extinguishers, 10 for CO2 cylinders)
Though some people aren't keen on filling them, you might have to look around to find someone else to do it
Perhaps ask some people local to you if anyone knows a store that will fill them for you and ask your LHBS, they might be willing to do it, otherwise you'll just have to go through a fire safety place
 
Thanks, worth investigating.

I wonder if this is possible with scuba cylinders....? I've got a couple hanging around....

They're not normally filled with CO2 though :D
 
zarniwoop said:
I wonder if this is possible with scuba cylinders....? I've got a couple hanging around....
After some quick research unsurprisingly this turns out to be a bad idea... apparently the mixture of water vapor left over from the air in the tank combined with the CO2 will result in an acidic compound that will corrode the tank.

(Oh and plenty of warnings about accidentally diving with CO2 instead of air etc etc)
 
zarniwoop said:
apparently the mixture of water vapor left over from the air in the tank combined with the CO2 will result in an acidic compound that will corrode the tank.
I would dare say that's Carbonic Acid
That's the tangy flavour/feeling in soda water
 
Thanks boonchu. Some interesting topics here, wouldn't have thought to use a fire extinguisher.

On the topic of CO2, what are people's thoughts on multiple regulators? From what I've read this doesn't seem common, but I would have thought it to be almost essential to be able to have different pressures to each keg due to different styles having different optimal carbonation levels.

Additionally, you can then have some kegs that are ready at serving pressure, and then have other kegs being force carbed shortcut style at 30psi if you so desired.

What are your thoughts on this? And is there a type of reg or multi reg setup that's recommended for this?
 
I bought a micromatic dual gauge regulator as craftbrewer had an add on reg for this purpose. Haven't got round to buying one yet and not sure if they still sell them but would be perfect for serving english ales/wheats/soda water etc without having to turn taps on and off like I do now.
 
Im quite tempted to add another regulator so i can have a soda on a dedicated ball lock at 35psi.
I believe you can add as any regulators on as you want.


sp0rk said:
IF you're buying all brand new
Or if you're like me and you're awesome at getting bargains, about $300
Free fridge on freecycle
kegs for $40 if you look around
2 andale DA taps on ebay for $40 each, they only need a service kit now 2 years after I bought them
shanks and connectors for said taps were $40 from a forum member
co2 fire extinguisher $20 at my local tip shop
refill for the extinguisher was $50
and disconnects were as you said about $20 a pair
my fridge fits 2 kegs so all up it was around a touch over $300
Well done mate thats a bargin!
 
Yep you can, also I believe it needs to flow from highest pressure at the bottle tonlowest pressure off last regulatot. Easily rectified if you forget this by swapping the d/cs around on the kegs
 
Yeah I knew you can do this, I was more wondering how necessary it is, and if there is a certain type/brand that's recommended? To those who have done kegging for a while and keg a variety of styles of beer/cider etc., how crucial/advantageous/handy is it to have the ability to have different pressures in each keg?

DJ_L3ThAL said:
Yep you can, also I believe it needs to flow from highest pressure at the bottle tonlowest pressure off last regulatot. Easily rectified if you forget this by swapping the d/cs around on the kegs
I believe that you can also get regs with an additional bypass outlet, so that you can hook another reg to it so that this 2nd reg gets fed with the CO2 bottle pressure, not that of the reg before it. Not 100% sure so don't quote me, but I think you can.
 
I'd say that is not worth any extra dollars tips be charged because it is simple to just connect the gas in order of pressure reduction surely?
 
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