Kegerator Co2 Splitting - Manifold or T-Pieces?

[BeerSwiller]

Hi All,

Just bought more kegs so i can run 3 kegs instead of just the single one I have connected at the moment, just wondering what the best way to split the Co2 would be? Use a manifold or use a 3 way cross type splitter?

Any help would be great here.

Thanks

 

[Drew]

Like all things it comes down to opinion. I like to have flexibility, so I think it's best to ensure you have an on-off for each keg. Also I think check-valves are useful to stop extra pressure (or beer!) coming back out of one keg and into another lower pressured keg.

So I suggest a manifold with one off valves and check valves inbuilt.

Also, metal is cool.

You could do the same out of the plastic fittings though you'd end up with several separate components.

 

[barls]

manifold for me.
got a spare one if your interested. its a 3 port one with individual controls for each line.
le me know

 

[givemeamash]

how much barls???

 

[barls]

40 bucks plus postage.

 

[MastersBrewery]

40 bucks plus postage.

BARGAIN!

 

[Lord Raja Goomba I]

What a legend.

For the sake of the record (and future posterity), I got these from ebay:

They have an on/off switch and allow for extensions. Started with 2 and ended with 4, before I left Brissy. Even one is good for having on/off switch per keg, and sort of allow (as will the manifold), a little flexibility with co2 volumes (turn one off for low volume like a British Bitter, whilst another keg has high volume such as an APA or Weiss). When the lower beer ends up coming out too slow, a little spritz up to keep head space filled, and turn it off.

 

[barls]

BARGAIN!

even has push lock fittings to boot.

 

[Edak]

You still need non return valves though..

 

[Wortgames]

I use (and recommend) a manifold with a ball lock post for the input. It has NR valves on each outlet but no ball valves (don't see the point, as a disconnected QD is a dead end anyway).

This way I have a single QD on a length of hose directly from the reg, which is convenient for things like purging and force carbing etc. Then I just plug that back onto the manifold to keep all my kegs pressurized.

 

[Edak]

The reason why I like a valve on each output is so I don't have to mess with the regulator connections. I have one spare port to force carb, that is i have a 4 way manifold for my 3 kegs, if I force carb then i just turn off the valves to the kegs and up the pressure. No playing with DC's

 

[ChefKing]

I just bought this 4 way manifold on ebay.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Gas-Distributor-Four-Way-Manifold-CO2-Brand-New-4-Way-PAC005-Home-Brew-/281115312915?

The description says that the gas line OD/ID is follows: Inlet/outlet connection: 0.95cm OD (3/8") - to fit 0.79cm ID (5/16") Gas Hose

So as I understand it I will need 7.9mm gas line?

Is this correct?

Thanks in advance...

 

[MastersBrewery]

Manifold, and be sure to allow for atleast one or two spare lines for force carbing etc.

 

[peteru]

Definitely manifold. If you are likely to have different styles of beer available most of the time, you might want to consider individual secondary regulators connected to the manifold outputs as well. That way you have precise control over the pressure in each keg. It saves stuffing around with the main regulator or fiddling with the gas routing.

 

[Rocker1986]

I just bought this 4 way manifold on ebay.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Gas-Distributor-Four-Way-Manifold-CO2-Brand-New-4-Way-PAC005-Home-Brew-/281115312915?

The description says that the gas line OD/ID is follows: Inlet/outlet connection: 0.95cm OD (3/8") - to fit 0.79cm ID (5/16") Gas Hose

So as I understand it I will need 7.9mm gas line?

Is this correct?

Thanks in advance...

They're big connections but yes the 8mm ID line is what you'd need for it. I got one with smaller barbs about 6mm diameter so I could use my 5mm ID line on them, which also fits into the push-in fittings on the gas disconnects.

I'd suggest removing all screw in parts and resealing them up with a bit of thread tape plus silicon (or similar) as well just to ensure it has no leaks. I found out the hard way when I first got mine...

As for the manifold vs T-piece splitters, having used both methods I much prefer the manifold. I have a spare line for quick carbing if needed. The other 3 obviously run into the kegs. I have a more crude idea for different pressures for different styles that just involves simply turning off the valve when the carb level is where I want it for the style, and just topping it up every couple of glasses or whatever.

 

[ChefKing]

They're big connections but yes the 8mm ID line is what you'd need for it. I got one with smaller barbs about 6mm diameter so I could use my 5mm ID line on them, which also fits into the push-in fittings on the gas disconnects.
I'd suggest removing all screw in parts and resealing them up with a bit of thread tape plus silicon (or similar) as well just to ensure it has no leaks. I found out the hard way when I first got mine...

As for the manifold vs T-piece splitters, having used both methods I much prefer the manifold. I have a spare line for quick carbing if needed. The other 3 obviously run into the kegs. I have a more crude idea for different pressures for different styles that just involves simply turning off the valve when the carb level is where I want it for the style, and just topping it up every couple of glasses or whatever.

I bought my gas disconnects from Keg King with 4mm ID beer/gas line.

So basically you are saying the KK gas disconnects will not take 8mm ID line...

Can I use plumbers tape and some stepless clamps to fix this problem?

Thanks in advance,

 

[Rocker1986]

Are they barbed disconnects or do they have push in fittings on them? You won't need plumbers tape on the barbs themselves, but a clamp would help. I doubt very much that you'd be able to stretch 4mm ID line over the barbs on that manifold.

 

[ChefKing]

Are they barbed disconnects or do they have push in fittings on them? You won't need plumbers tape on the barbs themselves, but a clamp would help. I doubt very much that you'd be able to stretch 4mm ID line over the barbs on that manifold.

The disconnects are barbed....

So you are saying that 8mm ID will fit both the disconnects and the manifold with out any trouble?

 

[Grott]

Yes, and use stepless clamps.
Cheers

 

[Rocker1986]

In that case, yes what grott said.