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Keep Cool Mash Tun

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pbrosnan

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Hi all,

I have A Keep Cool cylindrical esky that I'm turning into a mash tun. I've fashioned a manifold based on the braided toilet hose model but I'm not convinced that I've got it right. I've yet to test it but I'm worried that I haven't used enough hose or that the hose will not pick up the wort properly. Does anyone have any detailed instructions on implementing this design? I've looked at the stuff on brewiki and though instructive it still leaves a bit to the imagination.
My particular knowledge gaps are around the type and arrangement of fittings on the inside of the tun where the "T" piece and the hose join the threaded pipe. I can't get hold of the female bard for a start, none at Bunnings.
Anyway hopefully you can get a feel for my problem.

TIA

Patrick.
 

Batz

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pbrosnan,
This is what i have done , I have used it for sometime and it works very well.
Just joined to a "T" with S/S clamps.
I did have a shorter piece that worked Ok too , but this size I found too be about spot on.

Batz
 

GMK

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Post some pics and we might be able to help...more

Ken...
 

Trough Lolly

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Hey Batz,
Is that a temp probe sticking through the mashtun wall?
Did you just pack the hole with some food grade silicon? I picked up a cheap temp probe at the local kitchen supplier and I'm thinking of drilling a small hole in the rubbermaid and sticking the probe through, just like you did...

Cheers,
TL
 

kungy

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That seems a more logical explanation. I thought it was a nail in the tun. Don't ask me why, i was thinking that.

Will
 

big d

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isnt that what happens when you muck around with nail guns. <_<

nail ale. :lol:

cheers
big d
 

sosman

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I can't get hold of the female bard for a start, none at Bunnings.
Is that like a female equivalent to Shakespeare?

I have never seen barb fittings at Bunnings, I buy them from Purple Pig among other places. Having said that in the end I didn't use barbed fittings at all in the mashtun - I hint at that in the brewiki but sorry if I didn't make it clear.

I have updated the page with a closeup of the braid attachment to the copper.



http://brewiki.org/BatchSparge has words to go with it.
 

sosman

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Batz, I dunno about you but I reckon the long braid on T configuration rocks. My previous one was a single ended attachment only about 30cm long (well IIRC it was about the same length as my penis) and it just didn't have the flow (and no I am not referring to my enlarged prostate).

My take is that the longer the braid, the more resistant you are to local blockages in the mash/sparge so in the end it is difficult to get really stuck.
 

Trough Lolly

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Cheers Batz - I bought their Digital Probe Thermometer - it's handy for monitoring temps too, but the idea of a dedicated thermometer stuck in the side of the 10 Gal Rubbermaid is cool...I'll have a go at drilling a smaller pilot hole and gently pushing the *nail* in, ha, ha!! :p

I've got some clear silicon (Selleys) still in the gun after putting some flashing around the roof of the pergola - is that ok to use in the cooler?

Sorry about the joke at your expense, Will, but you must send us the recipe for whatever it is your drinking mate! B)

G'day Sosman - Those compression fitting thingies, um, is that a nylon olive on the valve in your closeup piccy?

**Warning - Dumb non-blackhander Question approaching** ;)
How does the compression fitting connect to a threaded valve? I have a 1/2 inch SS ball valve (thanks GMK!) and it's on a small threaded nipple that has a locknut holding it tight (with some rubber O rings) on the inside of my mashtun. I have a barbed SS T-piece (thanks again, Ken) that I can connect my 1.5m Happy Hooker to, presumably using a couple of SS hose clamps that I have a few of from my last run to Bunnings. Now, sorry about the long story...but, how does the compression fitting connect the barb to the nipple?
Am I better off just using a small section of PVC tubing and clamp each end of that to the T-piece barb and nipple, respectively?

I actually bought a 12inch SS false bottom from morebeer for use in the mashtun, but I'm thinking of switching it into the keg kettle and using the braided hose in the mashtun instead of the kettle as originally planned - only problem will be the sankey keg is a larger diameter than the 12 inch SS falsebottom....ah the joys of putting your own AG system together!!

Sorry to hijack another thread!! :ph34r:

Cheers,
TL
 

Batz

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I bought "Selleys" aquariaum sealant , it's food grade and only around $8 for a squeeze tube

Batz
 

Batz

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sosman said:
Batz, I dunno about you but I reckon the long braid on T configuration rocks. My previous one was a single ended attachment only about 30cm long (well IIRC it was about the same length as my penis) and it just didn't have the flow (and no I am not referring to my enlarged prostate).

My take is that the longer the braid, the more resistant you are to local blockages in the mash/sparge so in the end it is difficult to get really stuck.
True sos
I don't think it would be possiable to get a stuck sparge with this manifold (brave words?) :huh:
Even with a large grain bill I get full flow and a very clear wort , I recommend the braid manifolds the anyone , and really they are reasonably priced compared to other types.

Batz
 

jgriffin

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I managed to get a stuck sparge with my braid manifold once, still not sure how, but once it was stuck, itwas a real bugger to get the rest of the wort out.
 

sosman

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TL that is indeed some form of plastic olive. I bought a pack of 10 or so from bunnings.

The compression nut screws onto a male thread (eg nipple), squeezing the olive between the nut and nipple (now that is a party trick I haven't seen) and compressing it onto the copper pipe.

If your SS T already is threaded then you don't need a compression fitting - you only need this (or flare or ...) to go from copper pipe to fittings.

I should just mention that a compression fitting usually has the male part designed to mate with the nut with the correct profile for the olive. With ABOI (a bit of ingenuity) you can connect them to any old male thread.
 

sosman

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With the silicone sealer - just make sure you don't get it in contact with copper or brass. It will go green.
 

Plastic Man

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Trough Lolly

I also used some clear selleys sealant, ("roof and gutter sealant.." or something like that - left over from a leaky roof), on my mash tun and was a bit worried about it being food grade. I emailed them and asked the question. A guy called back pretty quick, (good service!!) and said that it although they didn't say it officially, it was OK for food contact once it had cured.
 

Trough Lolly

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Thanks fellas for the info - I'll have a go at the temperature probe in the cooler - it's where I need to closely control the temperature so the probe might as well be dedicated to mashing. Judging by the piccie, it appears that the probe should be located in the bottom third of the mashtun.

The SS T-piece is barbed on all three ends - so I will need to clamp a short line between it and the nipple. If I stick with the braided hose (no pun intended!) then I'll use a small length of the PVC hose I bought at Bunnings to link the T piece to the nipple. If I go with the morebeer falsebottom, I'll clamp the same hose between the fitting on top of the false bottom and the nipple. Either way, a short PVC run will be inevitable, and lets face it, a minor leak will not be an issue, within the mashtun!

Cheers and thanks again for the info on the compression fitting Sosman - I thought that was how it works (the term gives it away anyhow) but its nice to get confirmation from those in the know.

TL
 

pbrosnan

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Hi all,

Thanks very much for the input. It looks like I'm largely on the right track. A couple more things. The hose I bought has a gauge that was smaller than the "T" piece, does the hose come in different gauges or is it the "T" or is it just the way it is? Also is there any other tube carrying the wort to the tap other than the brass threaded tube. Once again thanks all, this has been very helpful. BTW can't send a pic at moment, bloody digi cam packed up Christmas day.

cheers

Patrick.
 

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