IPA final gravity 1.001?

[Miran]

I brewed the second batch using Morgan IPA extract. This time used Fresh Mangroove jack M42. Sanitization and temperature control as usual and all other ingredients the same just changed the hop to Cascade. AGAIN the same issue FG was low as 1.002. Now I guess issue is MOrgan extract or MGJ yeasts?!

 

[MHB]

Lets look at the odds. Morgans is part of Coopers and they make many thousands of kits a year. Mangrove Jacks produce lots of yeast.
Run a search for reports of over attenuating beer with Morgans IPA and MJ yeast.
Unless there are a fair number of other players reporting the same low FG it much more likely that you have an infection, there are a lot of wild yeasts that will hyper attenuate, it could have got into your equipment, not been killed during your cleaning and re-infected your beer.
In fact I would put money on it being your problem rather than the manufacturer.
Mark

 

[Miran]

Lets look at the odds. Morgans is part of Coopers and they make many thousands of kits a year. Mangrove Jacks produce lots of yeast.
Run a search for reports of over attenuating beer with Morgans IPA and MJ yeast.
Unless there are a fair number of other players reporting the same low FG it much more likely that you have an infection, there are a lot of wild yeasts that will hyper attenuate, it could have got into your equipment, not been killed during your cleaning and re-infected your beer.
In fact I would put money on it being your problem rather than the manufacturer.
Mark

Considering you are right and some infections in my equipment then
- I tried first batch after two weeks bottling, all are good but it is too watery ( no body!!)
-Frementer is the same for both batches and I cleaned it by OZbrew sanitizer completely for one full day.
- Both MGJs yeast should have low attenuations (according to website but for me they look like beasts, air lock start bublling after 30 minutes nonstop for more than a week)

Now I brewed another IPA in the same frementer using the washed yeast from previous batch (MGJ M42) if the gravity again low then I am going to consider issue is sanitiozations or high attenuations of MGJ yeast. Considering MGJ yeast ok then issue will be my sanitization.

I ll update you on results but need to know which damn sanitizer have to buy if the FG again is too low. Right now please!
Anyway I ll come for you money if this batch FG will be ok

 

[kadmium]

If you're using washed yeast then you could melt your fermenter and recycle it into a new one and you would still have the same issue because, if you have an infection or some wild yeast then they are in the washed yeast you are using.

 

[Miran]

If you're using washed yeast then you could melt your fermenter and recycle it into a new one and you would still have the same issue because, if you have an infection or some wild yeast then they are in the washed yeast you are using.

Sanitizing everything and using new yeast... that what I did last time and still encountered hyperattenuation. What do you suggest for thorough sanitization of my frementer? This time I ll use safeale US 05 yeast.
I am not using second frementer so my batch normally stays in frementer for two weeks and then I bottle/keg it.

 

[kadmium]

If it a HDPE fermenter then you really need to give it a good clean inside with a soft cloth and hot water. Use some brewery cleaner or similar.

Make sure you take the tap out of the fermenter and take it apart. Clean all the parts of the tap, paying attention to the threads. You can boil the tap to ensure it's thoroughly cleaned.

Take the black seal out from the lid, and ensure you clean behind in. Make sure the lid is thoroughly cleaned. Clean the black seal well. Ensure there is no gunk any where.

Spray everything down with starsan from a spray bottle and let it air dry.

Then on brew day, spray down all the parts of the tap, and put it back together. You can use some lubrifilm to make it easier to take apart and prevent leaks but go sparingly.

Spray down the black seal and behind where it sits, then put it back together.

Give the fermenter body a good spray down and fill.

Don't forget to spray down and sanitise anything that touches wort post boil. If you have a racking cane or vinyl tubing that you use to transfer to the fermenter, make sure it's replaced (best option) or you're certain its clean and sanitary.

Star San isn't super effective at eliminating wild yeast infections etc but a good proper wash and clean should help eliminate.

You can as a last resort do a bleach clean, but you will need to leave your thoroughly rinsed fermenter out in the sun for a day to help get rid of any left over chlorine or you risk producing chlorophenols when your yeast get to work in the presence of chlorine.

Also, if using tap water make sure its good quality, and I would suggest pre boiling and cooling or bottled. Just to ensure you don't have a local infection in your water.

It can be a real pain to chase down a brew house infection.

 

[MHB]

This is probably going to **** Darren the Drunk no end, but I would think seriously of using some bleach!
Assuming its something like the common open head drum type fermenter. Depending on the exact material and how well the fermenter was made some plastics can be quite porous if you filled the fermenter wit hot (tap) water and added some bleach, shove everything made of plastic that you use in it (the lid will usually fit in if you push hard enough). Leave it to soak overnight. Next day, drain and rinse well. Put it in the sun for a couple of days, this will drive out most of the Cl. Then clean and sanatise as per usual.
Iodophors would be another good (better) option, the good old Pink Stain Remover (Chlorinated Tri-Sodium Phosphate) would work well. If the fermenter isn't in good condition replace it and all the fittings. Often if you get a sick fermenter its easier to just replace it than to try and get it sterile.
I know how frustrating persistent infections can be, sometimes its the environment, a tree in flower that is shedding masses of wild yeast, a vineyard over the hill, even a moldy dank old laundry that you shouldn't really be brewing in. Have a long hard look at your environment, if all else fails Stop take a short break from brewing, come back in a month or so, clean like buggery and try again.
Mark

Kadmium posted while I was typing - pretty much the same thoughts - you need to be absolutely scrupulous in your cleaning and sterilising.
Luck M

 

[Miran]

Can I use dettol or some other household cleaners from Woolie or coles for sanitization? If not I can get some Trisodium phosphate . I checked and seems I can find Tricleanium in Bunnings.

Trying to do not use bleach as I need my frementers out of service for three to four days at least. I am going for my first all grain brew next weekend and honestly do not want to loose it or buy anymore frementer as I do not have any more space in my room

 

[MHB]

Do you think it might be possible that there is a difference between Chlorinated Trisodium Phosphate made for cleaning and sanatising food processing equipment and Trisodium Phosphate (without the Cl needed to kill bugs) made to clean crap off walls?

Not much point in asking questions if you think you already know better, dude your happy to blame anyone and everything other than yourself for the problems your having. When you get advice you come up with some hairbrained alternative, Dettol FFS, why don't you try Pin o Clean and a dunny brush.
On your own from here Luck, I think you are going to need lots!
Mark

 

[Miran]

Mark no offence from my side. My apology to you for considering my questions rude!! i went through word by word of your and Kademium suggestions and being in all Darwin and websites to find your suggested ones. No one here on the shelves. So tries to google and find other approaches! Anyway i have not blamed anyone!! tnx for all your advise. Already bought some pino clean too

 

[Grmblz]

"why don't you try Pin o Clean and a dunny brush" You're stealing my lines Mark, and now look what's happened

 

[Miran]

Do you think it might be possible that there is a difference between Chlorinated Trisodium Phosphate made for cleaning and sanatising food processing equipment and Trisodium Phosphate (without the Cl needed to kill bugs) made to clean crap off walls?

Not much point in asking questions if you think you already know better, dude your happy to blame anyone and everything other than yourself for the problems your having. When you get advice you come up with some hairbrained alternative, Dettol FFS, why don't you try Pin o Clean and a dunny brush.
On your own from here Luck, I think you are going to need lots!
Mark

 

[Grmblz]

Be aware, it kills everything, but also STAINS! everything, good product and safe for stainless steel, wear gloves unless you like purple hands

 

[yankinoz]

Consider Iodophor. Despite its drawbacks---light and various water impurities degrade it---it's a broad spectrum sanitizer, works on wild yeasts, which Star-San does not do well (see a well-referenced posting at Starsan not effective against wild yeast and molds!). I soak taps in it, and you can examine color to check penetration into the tap. Betadine liquid at 3ml/L provides the recommended concentration if nothing is degrading it. Better, go by color; charts can be found online.

 

[mje1980]

I prefer iodophor but i haven’t been able to find it locally. Last 5l bottle lasted over a decade.

 

[yankinoz]

I prefer iodophor but i haven’t been able to find it locally. Last 5l bottle lasted over a decade.

Betadine is a solution of iodophor in water. The only difference from what brew suppliers sell is concentration, and that is only slightly different. Use 3 ml/L or a bit more depending on your water, as above. Most chemists stock Betadine in L bottles.

 

[Miran]

Betadine is a solution of iodophor in water. The only difference from what brew suppliers sell is concentration, and that is only slightly different. Use 3 ml/L or a bit more depending on your water, as above. Most chemists stock Betadine in L bottles.

So is it possible to use betadine in general stores for sanitization of brew stuffs with higher mixing ratio than iodophor?

 

[yankinoz]

So is it possible to use betadine in general stores for sanitization of brew stuffs with higher mixing ratio than iodophor?

Yes. Betadine is sold an antiseptic. I used it after checking manufacturer's specs to make sure it did not contain something you wouldn't want in beer, such as denatured alcohol. It's an iodophor solution that differs from what is sold for brewing only in concentration. Note chemists also sell Betadine as an ointment. Needless to say, that won't work.

On other brew sites you will find this same topic comes up. On one a manufacturer chimed in and said there's no difference.