Well that doesn't sound ideal....I bought 3 of them, got a refund on 2 after a couple of months use. The temperature wouldn't stay steady, would fluctuate quite a bit. This would make the fridge constantly kick on, even with a compressor delay of 10mins it was turning on and off constantly. They worked fine at first as far as i could tell. Only reason i'm still using the third one is because its only hooked up to a heating belt.
I may use the timers, it was a feature I thought worth the extra investment.timmi9191 said:If youre not using the timers, whats the benefit over an STC-1000?
STC 1000 does switch between heating and cooling. But some assembly required as per the thread on the subject. Purely a thermostat.Patrick_BCB said:I may use the timers, it was a feature I thought worth the extra investment.
I have no experience with the STC-1000 - does it automatically switch between heating and cooling? That was a must have feature for me. I had previously purchased a controller that I *thought* switched between heating and cooling to maintain a temperature but unfortunately this was not the case.
how do these sockets work? I assumed you just plug your fridge into the cooling socket if you aren't using a heat source?I've got three of the Inkbird ITC-310T's and am very happy with them after 10 weeks. I don't use the timer function at all, but at some stage may want to.
Have had zero issues with the controller and like the plus/minus .3 degrees range I can keep my brew at during fermentation. I manually adjust mine as needs be including cc'ing in the fermentation chamber. Tested against some of the other temperature controllers / thermometers I have and found the 0~10 degree range to be more accurate than any of the other equipment I have. Over 10 everything else started to line up.
Love the heating and cooling sockets, especially since my fridges live under the house and the ambient has gone close to 10 some mornings so heating was essential.
makes sense - thanks.Very simple. One socket is heating and it is turned on when the temperature needs to be warmer. The other socket is cooling and it is turned on when the temperature needs to be colder. You can hook up nothing and just use the unit to monitor temperature, you can hook up both to maintain temperature within a range or just hook up cooling or heating to prevent the temperature going too high or too low. Your choice.
I wouldn't think so, they're a temp controller, not a PIDVP Brewing said:Would these be suitable to control a HERMS?
yep, that's the one mate.Killer Brew said:
How long did it take?sp0rk said:My Inkbird ITC-310T just got here
Will report back on it some time soon
Sounds like I'll get it early next week then.This is the one I won in the last comp on here (which was drawn mid july...)
I sent them my details on 26/8, they replied saying sorry for the late reply on 30/8 and it appeared in my office just now, was sent via untracked Parcel Post
You sure canBKBrews said:I just had a thought....
If I buy one of the SS Brewtech BrewMaster Buckets.... Can I put the ink bird temp probe directly into the thermowell?
At a pinch, yes. I tried it on my system awhile back. The problem is that they don't wait until the target rest temperature is reached before starting a timed rest period. You need to know your system's ramping rate & add the ramping period to your rest period.VP Brewing said:Would these be suitable to control a HERMS?
Yep, exactly what I experienced. You get fluctuations above/below the set-point just like an STC-1000. If accuracy is what you're after, a PID is the way to go.sp0rk said:I wouldn't think so, they're a temp controller, not a PID
You don't have the accuracy of a PID, they just shut off a set temp, so you risk still having temp rises
