Yorg
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- Joined
- 18/5/07
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How do you do it?
Here is how I oxygenate.
The unit connects after the chiller, and can quick connect to either a huge aquarium pump with a microbiological filter on it, or to a MAPP oxygen bottle.
The clear part is polycarbonate tubing - 15mm I think - perfect for 3/4 inch compression fittings of the new type for plastic house plumbing, as seen. Not sure how they would go with other type of fitting, but would probably work with the plastic olive type - and obviously this tube won't flare.
SS Aaquarium air stone. Removable for cleaning. Seal provided by a recessed hex nut and O-ring, as per a weldless kettle fitting.
Bit of soldering to provide a copper nipple/bit of pipe for the air hose to fit to.
Regular brass garden fittings as per the rest of my system.
Advantages - sealed from atmosphere - theoretically more sanitary.
Options - could be actually mounted on the CFC or plate chiller. Could have a thermometer on a second T (I have it on my March inlet.)
Here is how I oxygenate.
The unit connects after the chiller, and can quick connect to either a huge aquarium pump with a microbiological filter on it, or to a MAPP oxygen bottle.
The clear part is polycarbonate tubing - 15mm I think - perfect for 3/4 inch compression fittings of the new type for plastic house plumbing, as seen. Not sure how they would go with other type of fitting, but would probably work with the plastic olive type - and obviously this tube won't flare.
SS Aaquarium air stone. Removable for cleaning. Seal provided by a recessed hex nut and O-ring, as per a weldless kettle fitting.
Bit of soldering to provide a copper nipple/bit of pipe for the air hose to fit to.
Regular brass garden fittings as per the rest of my system.
Advantages - sealed from atmosphere - theoretically more sanitary.
Options - could be actually mounted on the CFC or plate chiller. Could have a thermometer on a second T (I have it on my March inlet.)
