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Immersion Chiller Construction

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Goat

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Hello all.
I'm hoping to make myself an immersion chiller/cooler in the next few weeks and have a few questions with which I would appreciate some sage advice....
1. Is the type of copper tube I'm looking for "annealed" - is that the soft stuff?
2. How much should the tube cost - I saw 12m of 10mm tube for ~$70 yesterday, is that about right?
3. should I also get one of those spring things to stop it kinking (assuming that the coil radius is about 250mm)?
I'm sure I had another question, but I can't remember it now :angry: ...
Anyway, thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Goat
 

kook

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I just went to tradelink and bought 9? 10? metres of "soft copper pipe" 1/2" diameter. Cost me around $60.

Wrapped it round a keg carefully like Doc's, had no issues with kinks.
 

Goat

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Thanks Kook - the cost sounds about right then.... and I can save some money on the spring too, its all good!

Goat
 

GMK

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Wort Chiller

Some things of note...
I ahve been informed that 3/8 is the best diameter for the coiled immersion chiller...something to do with good flow rate to surface area etc.

if you want to spend a bit a money and get the best value for money, then got to stpats web site and order the Counterflow Chillziller. Cost is approx 100.00 us plus 60.00 US air mail. or goto SABCO and for 115.00US plus 38.00 US postal 4- 6weeks can get the same one. Virtually the same price.

http://www.stpats.com/chillers.htm

As long as it lands in the courntry under 250.00 aus..no duty.

2 guys in the club have these and absolutely swear by them.
It would cost approx 100.00 aus to make your own immersion chiller...and it wouldn't be anywhere near as good as these.

NOTE; Order the plastic attachments (barbs) to go on them as they are not a thread found in Aus.

I currently have one on order...
 

Goat

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Thanks GMK.

As I'm pretty much starting out I'm deliberately going low-tech (cheap). I realise the counterflow chillers are more efficient and faster than the immersion ones but that doesn't worry me just yet (certainly a fine looking product though). BTW, how does one handle break material with a couterflow chiller?

I will look into the 3/8 tube though - thanks for the tip.

Goat
 

GMK

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Goat

There are numerous discussions on this subject about the cold break etc.

The consensus at the club is to do the following:
Whirlpool the hot wort once the boil has finished.
let stand for 30 mins to allow the protiens etc to coagulate and fall to the bottom.
Now when using the Counterflow wort chiller, the cold break will flow through to the fermenter.
There are are some thoughts that this is bad...but the consensus is that this is actually good and has essential minerals and nutrient for the yeast and does more good than harm.
Therefore, it is beneficial to have the cold break in the fermenter.
Otherwise...make a pre keg filter after the wort chiller to filter out the cold break material if you want to.

Hope this helps.
 

Doc

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Well my Immersion Chiller is still working a treat.
Got a work out on Saturday and got the temp down from boiling to 26 degrees in 20 minutes.
That is good enough for me.

Cheers,
Doc
 

PostModern

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Am I on drugs for thinking that an immersion chiller is actually lowered into the wort INSIDE the boiler? This would give MUCH better thermal transfer than wrapping pipe around the outside of the boiler, surely?
 

GMK

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Post Modern

Yes you are on drugs....
The quickest/most efficient cooling method available to the home brewer is a counterflow chiller.

Most commercial brewries use some sort of vernier plate (i think thats what it is called) after filtering out the yeast etc...
 

therook

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I think what Doc has done is made it buy wrapping it around one of his Kegs.

He then lowers it into the boiler
 

Doc

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That is correct.
I built it by wrapping it around an 18 litre corny keg.
I then lower it into my boiler with about 20 mins to go.

Cheers,
Doc
 

PostModern

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My mistake. I saw Doc's "how to make" pic and thought it was an "in use" pic.
 

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