I got cold-break in my keg. Best way to filter it out?

[goatus]

For some reason my plate chiller didn't do so well on my last batch (probably ground water temp). It only got the wort down to 35ish into the fermenter, so i threw the fermenter in the fridge to get it down to pitching.

Looks like that left quite a bit of cold break in the bottom of the fermenter (although nicely clumped together - perhaps thanks to whirfloc).

I have since kegged, but was less than careful and sucked a couple of chunks of break into the keg. Its not that much, but as im serving it seems to be splitting the chunks up and giving me aweful floaties in each pour, not at all attractive.

Can anyone think of a way to filter it out / stop the floaties? I was thinking of getting one of those filter housings with the cartridges and filter it into another keg, but that's money on something i probably wouldn't use much again, and this clumpy gunky stuff will probably clog a 1micron filter instantly anyway.

Other thing i could do I guess is pull the keg pickup tube out and bend it a bit so its not grabbing off the very bottom.

Any other ideas?

 

[Coodgee]

Let it settle for a week and then it should all come out in the first pint or two. You could a one micron filter but that would set you back 100 bucks for the whole shebang. Just let it settle i reckon

 

[SBOB]

gelatine and let it settle for a day?

 

[goatus]

I actually haven't touched it for about 5 days now while it has been carbing up. I might give it a pull tonight and see if i get some satisfying clumps of protein in the first pint.

If not I think i will get the filter, nice bit of kit to have around i guess anyway. Anyone that uses them know how well it will go if it sucks up a good chunk of break though? instant cloggage?

 

[Coodgee]

No it's a big unit it won't clog. If you haven't touched it for 5 days you should be pulling clear beer after 3 pints

 

[real_beer]

I have since kegged, but was less than careful and sucked a couple of chunks of break into the keg. Its not that much, but as im serving it seems to be splitting the chunks up and giving me aweful floaties in each pour, not at all attractive.

gotus don't ever move to North Queensland, the boys up there have to share their beers with hordes of flies constantly dropping in them for a quick drink and swim. They usually remove them with the fore and middle finger working together in a quick scooping action from the middle of to the side of the glass. Maybe you could catch the floaties the same way as they break the surface, but make sure no nostril probing or crotch scratching has been indulged in since the last hand wash.

 

[SergeMarx]

I might give it a pull tonight and see if i get some satisfying clumps of protein in the first pint.

I choked on my beer when i read that.

 

[goatus]

The satisfying clumps all ended up in the first pint. Drank it with pride. Thanks fellas.

 

[danestead]

The satisfying clumps all ended up in the first pint. Drank it with pride. Thanks fellas.

Gotta love a swallower

 

[smcc3573]

Gotta love a swallower

lol.. they are keepers!!!

I have read about this

http://www.whitelabs.com/other-products/wln4000-clarity-ferm-brewers-clarex

you put it in with the yeast and it inhibits the construction of polyphenols and proteins which can cause chill haze, being a bottler I havent had such issues but it might be a better option than gelatin

maybe someone here can chime in with experience

 

[Rocker1986]

I'm not sure it exactly inhibits the construction of polyphenols and proteins since these already exist in the malt and hops before the beer is even brewed. Bottling doesn't make any difference to chill haze either.

I use a combination of isinglass and Polyclar (PVPP) during cold crashing prior to kegging and end up with hardly any sediment in the kegs once they blow dry. However, once it's already in the keg it's a bit late for that method, I guess just letting it settle out and drawing the first glass of gunk would probably suffice. If the keg isn't moved then nothing more should be drawn through the dip tube after that initial bit has gone.